What happens if you start exercising in 1969? What do you look like today? Well, if you were a watch, it would probably look like a 42mm Zenith would ignore the Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. When the Athletic brought the A3642 to life 56 years ago, the watch looked already visible to go far, with its muscular octagonal case and carved square (14-sided) bezel. However, the first Defy model also had room for growth. Years of training/evolution have led to a more complex, larger, but slimmer and more despicable version: the openwork chronograph.
Things must be put into perspective, especially when discussing clocks like Zenith. We live in the age of integrated bracelet luxury sports watches. This is a trend that began for many in 1972 with Royal Oak. The DefyA3642 does not have an integrated bracelet, but the design language of the watch is not much different from the Gerald Genta, which was designed for Audemars Piguet three years later. Zenith’s creation caused quite a stir when it came out, as it only gains nicknames when things were remarkable and relevant. Defy’s strong appearance has earned the nickname “Coffre-Fort” for “Bank Vault” or “Safe Deposit Box.” In other words, Defy made a strong first impression, but it faded over time. In 2022, the Defy Skyline Collection made its debut. This is a contemporary interpretation of the old themes between the Defy Classic and the Defy Extreme models.
Zenith ignores the black and blue skyline chronograph skeleton
Take a closer look at the original Defy bezel and now the new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. Are there any differences in basic designs? Give me a hint. The difference is 2. The original 14-sided bezel is currently 12 bezels. Losing two sides makes the bezel look a little smoother. Strongly faceted octagonal cases still exist, and strong edges and angles somewhat similar to bank safes are not yet possible to crack even with strong teeth of time. If Defy Revival is too retro and Defy Extreme is too much/muscular, Defy Skyline could be for you. It offers a modern look, but is medium sized and not very enthusiastic.
Using the openwork dial, the black and blue zenith ignores the Skyline Chronograph skeleton clock. These chronographs come in 42mm steel cases with 12.7mm and 47mm thickness to 42mm lug length. This means it fits most (adult) wrists. Another difference from the original Rebellion is that the Skyline has an integrated bracelet. Press the button to easily switch between blue or black rubber straps. You may also want to know that the watch has a screwed crown, sapphire on the top and back, and has a water resistance rating of 100m.
Openwork, skeletonization, or something else?
The inside of the blue and black variations of the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton hits the El Primero 3600Sk. This allows the chronograph to display 1/10 second at a rapid rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour. A nice touch is a 10-second round, not a much more common round of 60 seconds, with the chronograph hand in the middle. The automatic movement also has a 60-hour power reserve, with the addition of “SK” to the name representing “Skeletonized.”
Currently, skeletonized movements come in a variety of forms. In the case of these two zenith works, they are not traditional in the sense that they are extremely delicate. Yes, some material was taken away, but the result is still a sturdy move. Combining the movement and openwork dial creates a fascinating three-dimensional effect.
The dial was cut into four sections reminiscent of the old square Zenith logo, with lower levels of the dial receiving layers of black or blue lacquer. Above you can see a contrasting light silver openwork subdial. The motion plate has the same color as the dial, so to speak, the dial and movement “play together very well together.” Creates a transparent, integrated look. It’s not as difficult to read as a traditional skeletonized watch, but it’s also more dramatic and interesting than a watch with a closed dial.
Wear Zenith and deal with Skyline Chronograph Skeleton
The 42mm diameter, 12.7mm thickness, and 47mm length of the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton feels perfectly fine on the wrist. It’s not too slim for an automatic chronograph, and is short enough to avoid the somewhat troublesome appearance of a bracelet that creates a 90° angle.
I had a hard time choosing between blue and black. Due to the layered and openwork structure, the blue version was less present on the wrist than I expected. So, as expected, the black version was pretty much stealthy, but not because dialing and movement construction is too dynamic for me to call it. The edgy shape and angle match the design of the case, bezel and bracelet so well that it didn’t bother anyone who wasn’t overly attracted to the skeletonized watch.
Operating a chronograph is a real joy. The pusher feels crisp and solid, and the speed of the middle hand around the dial is most attractive.
Impression of the black and blue zenith skyline chronograph skeleton
As I wrote, the Defy Skyline Collection debuted in 2022 as an evolved version of the original in 1969, between the revival and extreme models. The collection continues to expand, demonstrating Zenith is the historical and contemporary watch that defy is associated with. But I feel like Girard Perlegu’s admiration model, defy has snow on Ghent-designed watches from Ardmars Piguet, Patek Philippe and, to a lesser extent, IWC.
In addition to that, many other brands have released watches in similar design languages, whether they are completely new or very distracting, based on archive designs. In other words, even within the LVMH, Zenith’s parent group, Hublot creates watches with a similar appearance. The Big Bang is a completely different “beast” than the Skyline’s chronograph skeleton, but if you don’t study the watch side, but don’t study individually at a glance – first impressions happen in a flash – can you distinguish them?
Eye-catching quality
I’m sure the eyes of trained watch enthusiasts will see the difference. But remember, untrained people want to wear gorgeous watches there as well. It feels like it’s an audience that doesn’t bother you much about Defy’s fascinating origins, or in the case of different Defy Chronograph models, their groundbreaking El Primero moves. But both versions of Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton can make it a shot to “hook” its audience. These chronographs make strong statements of heritage, style and technology, and their first impressions are strong. The openwork dial/movement combo certainly catches your eye and keeps your attention.
Have you chosen either black or blue Zenith, which ignores the Skyline Chronograph Skeleton? If so, you might want to know the price of 15,900 euros / 15,500 euros.
This is a partnership post. Read about transparency here.