Zach Brass
Editor’s Note: This in-depth review by Zach originally appeared early in his career at Time+Tide, in September 2020. After he mentioned this watch and how special it is to him in our recent “Q&A with Editor Zach Brass” video at Geneva Watch Days, we decided to look back at his review and remember why the A. Lange & Söhne 221.021 remains such a popular piece in his collection.
For the past 5 years or so, I’ve been buying, trading and selling watches to build and grow my collection. Two months ago (2 years ago now) I got a watch that I still can’t believe I get to own and wear. High on my holy grail list, the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down 221.021 has always been the end goal watch for me. It’s what I wanted to strive for and finally call my own. They say that when you meet your heroes, you should never worry that you might be disappointed in person. Will this watch live up to my expectations? Let’s find out…
Background/Summary
In this industry, Swiss watches are often at the center of conversation. The “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking refers to the three Swiss brands: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. However, many argue that A. Lange & Söhne should also enjoy equal fame with the three aforementioned brands. Being of German descent myself, this company has always intrigued me. Their traditional German style with three-quarter bridge plates and engraved balance cocks that date back to master engravers is not only the pinnacle of German watchmaking, but some of the best in the world.
Luckily, a trusted pre-owned watch dealer from whom I previously purchased from had the 221.021 up for sale, so I decided to inquire. Since I have owned quite a few sports watches, I decided to leverage two things to make this purchase. The first was a Rolex Explorer 14270 with a frosted/spider dial made the year I was born (full box and papers included). The second was a cancelled pre-order for a watch that converted from Swiss Francs to roughly $4,000 USD. With a fair offer on the Explorer and confirmation of a refund for the cancelled order, my dream watch became a reality.
When you put it on your wrist…
The moment I put it on my wrist, fastened the buckle, turned the watch and stared at the dial, I felt a strong sense of pride and accomplishment. As John Mayer mentioned in his second Talking Watches with Ben Clymer of Hodinkee, he asked Patek Philippe to engrave the back of his watch with “Mr. John C. Mayer”. In fact, the first time I put it on, I was no longer Zach Brass, but Mr. Zachary B. Brass. It sounds a little silly, but it really felt that way. I immediately called Omi (German for Grandmother) and told her the news. I proudly explained that it was one of the best looking watches I had ever seen, and even more so, that it was proudly made in Germany. I was thrilled to take it out of the box. Once I had it, I felt satisfied, the hunter in me was completely fulfilled, and that elation didn’t fade even after a few months.
In terms of appearance?
The watch was in near-mint condition, having had a full case and movement serviced within the past two years. It’s all German. The Arabic numerals, a hallmark of the 1815 line, and the rail track that surrounds the dial (and subdials) are reminiscent of traditional vintage design. The hands change from nearly black to a flame-bottom blue in the light. It’s a perfect and consistent blue for each of the Alpha-style hour, minute, second and power reserve hands. The solid silver dial has great depth due to the sunken subdials and the inner circle that wraps around the bottom of the hour markers that proudly frames A. Lange & Söhne on the dial. In the right light, the grain texture is visible, further adding to the texture and depth of the watch. The mirror-polished bezel shines proudly in the light, emitting a luxurious glow. The satin caseband contrasts beautifully with the bezel, and the case has a rich brushed texture around it. The precious yellow gold has a luxurious weight to it, making it feel more substantial with each wear.
What was impressive to me was…
The most distinctive feature of this watch is the power reserve indicator, which is only available on the Up/Down model. It is no longer a unique complication or function, but its shape and aesthetics are unique. When I first wound the watch, my eye was immediately drawn to the small blue hand on the subdial. With each turn of the crown and the click of the internal gears, the hand slowly moved from “Ab” to “Auf,” waking up the internal mechanism. I really like the alpha hand, reminiscent of Achilles’ spear, and its aesthetics. The history of the Ab/Auf power reserve indicator dates back to 1879, when Ferdinand A. Lange patented this unique design. It has made its way from historic pocket watches and marine chronometers to today’s modern 1815 lineup. Although many watches now feature a power reserve function, this complication is distinctly Lange in shape.
Another star of the show was its mesmerizing movements. With a magnifying glass, we could take a closer look at the fine German craftsmanship. The thin, curvaceous and angular chamfers were a sight to behold. The sculpted balance cock was a work of art in itself. Every component and detail was given the utmost attention by a true watchmaker. One A. Lange & Söhne hallmark that every collector can appreciate is that each movement is designed specifically for its reference. The movements are sized to fit perfectly into the caseback, leaving no unnecessary gaps or unused space.
Everything about this watch is luxury timepiece. I love that even though it is a modern-day watch, it feels like I’m wearing a time capsule of tradition on my wrist. Someone less familiar with the hobby could easily mistake this for a vintage watch worn by a noble gentleman or royalty of the past.
If you wear this…
I will save this watch for the most important occasions. As I mentioned before, this is the watch I will have on my wrist when I need to become Mr. Zachary B. Brass. Zach Brass wears a Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Mr. Zachary B. Brass wears an A. Lange & Söhne 221.021. If my shirt has buttons and a collar, this is the watch I want to wear. This is a watch I want to enjoy as much as possible, unless it’s a trip to the beach or I want to preserve and protect this precious watch. Since it is a precious metal watch on an alligator strap, I expect to wear it for longer in the cooler months. During this time of year, I prefer to sweat out the bracelet watches in my collection. But even when I wear a suit at night, or when I’m dressed smart casually, I find an excuse to wear this grail watch. As long as my environment does not pose a danger to this water-resistant watch, I want to keep it on my wrist.
If I could change one thing…
Simply put…don’t fix what isn’t broken. This A. Lange & Söhne 221.021 with its 36mm case and compact lug-to-lug design has everything I was looking for in a dress watch, or any watch for that matter. Changing anything would take away from the German influence, but I can’t find a single flaw in it. I would say that the crystal on the dial appears to have very fine hairline scratches, but they are just cosmetic and do no harm to the watch. If it really bothers you, you can have the crystal replaced with a one-time visit to a Lange boutique. The only other thing I think should be changed is the fact that this watch is discontinued. This watch is just too classic in its size, perfect. Although the latest version is 39mm and has 24 hours more power reserve, I can say with 100% confidence that I would never choose this over the 36mm 221.021.
So… will the A. Lange & Söhne 221.021 disappear from my collection?
Unless I need to sell due to major financial difficulties or for reasons outside the nature of collecting, this A. Lange & Söhne 221.021 will definitely be a permanent member of my collection. I will not use this watch to purchase another watch as I have done in the past (including this purchase). When I trade/sell a watch, it is usually as a way to “upgrade” it and add something meaningful to my collection. Simply put, I don’t think you can find anything better. It’s a compact 36mm precious metal luxury watch with an amazingly well-finished movement proudly on display through the showcase back.
In a nutshell, this is everything I have ever wanted and will always want. I love this watch. As a consumer, I realized that I no longer have the desire to search for a new watch like I did before. I no longer constantly visit dealerships for my next purchase. This watch truly fulfilled my desire for the “next watch”. While some watches go through a honeymoon period and end up being discarded in the name of purchasing a new watch, this watch was and still is my end goal. If I am lucky enough to have children and a family, I would like to pass this watch down to the next generation, making it a never-ending cycle. I never want this watch to leave my collection, and more importantly, my family.
