Last week, I was invited by a radio station to do an interview about the special Rolex Paderone 8171 being offered at the popular art and antiques fair, PAN Amsterdam. The organizer asked me what was so special about this watch and why it was being exhibited at the exhibition.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
Rolex Paderone Ref. 8171
PAN Amsterdam will be held from November 24th to December 1st, but the Rolex Paderone ref. 8171 is already on sale (listed for just under €200,000). This was offered through the Amsterdam Watch Company, which has been exhibiting at PAN Amsterdam for several years. At the PAN fair, I was asked if watches were safe, but since they are works of art and antiques, I think that’s natural. And the fact that it was sold on the first day is proof that PAN visitors enjoy vintage watches. At least one of them did!
Rolex advertisement in The Sun Herald, November 18, 1951 (New South Wales, Australia)
Production numbers are extremely low for Rolex watches.
The more important question is what makes the Rolex Perpetual “Paderone” 8171 so special? According to the seller and many other websites (which seem to be repeating what others have written elsewhere), Rolex only made 1,000 Ref. Hodinkee’s Ben Clymer claims that production was slightly higher at 1,200 watches, of which 50% were Rolex reference 8171s. 8171 stainless steel. Broadly speaking, whether it’s 1,000 or 1,200 cars, that number is nothing compared to the modern production numbers of The Crown in Geneva. It will be a paderone reference. 8171 This is an extremely rare Rolex that is coveted by collectors.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
beautiful face
The reputation of this watch goes beyond just the small number produced. That’s because it’s one of the few Rolex models to feature a triple calendar and moon phase complication. Second, this Rolex 8171, nicknamed the “Paderone” (Italian for “frying pan”), looks different than most Rolex models due to the shape and size of the dial. When Rolex produced this watch from 1949 to 1952, Oyster cases, and even Oyster-Datejust cases, had already been produced for some time. Not only does the non-Oyster 8171 case look different, it is also relatively larger in diameter. The width of the Paderone is 38mm, which is 2mm wider than the Rolex Datejust. Additionally, it was larger than the other “complicated” Rolex at the time with a triple calendar and moon phase complication, the “Stelline” Ref. 6062. Additionally, the latter came with an Oyster case, just like the Datejust.
Caliber A295 CPL — Image: Bonhams
Rolex Caliber A295 CPL
Inside the Rolex Paderone Ref. 8171 is caliber A295 CPL. This is an 18 jewel automatic movement with day, date, month and moon phase complications. There are no detailed decorations on the movement. The look could be described as more “industrial.” Therefore, the charm of this watch lies not in the decoration of the movement, but in the case, dial, and complications. That said, Rolex movements are incredibly reliable and chronometer-certified, so they deserve praise.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
Rolex 8171 case and dial
The dial is housed in an elegant 38 mm case with two openings for the day and month below the 12 o’clock position, a date scale printed around the periphery, and a sub-seconds register at 6 o’clock. has a moon phase aperture. The applied gold hour markers are faceted and the Rolex logo is applied above the day and month apertures. Below the opening is the Rolex wordmark and the word “Perpetual”, indicating that it is equipped with an automatic movement. The dagger’s hour and minute hands are gold, and the date hand is steel with a blue triangular tip. The small second hand is also gold plated. Inside the subdial, it is stated that this movement is an “Officially Certified Chronometer.” Finally, a gold bezel secures the acrylic crystal in place.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
Snap-in case back with (thin) engraving
The crown of this Rolex Paderone Ref. 8171 is flat and unengraved. There are two micro pushers on each side of the case to modify the calendar function. The snap-in caseback has two engravings: the Rolex coronet and the watch’s individual case number.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
Original alligator strap and Rolex signed buckle
According to the Amsterdam Watch Company, which sold the watch, the case is still very thick and sharp. All engravings on the case back are still visible. If these become almost invisible or disappear completely, you can easily tell that the watch has been worn a lot (or has been polished too often). The creamy-looking dial has developed a subtle patina as seen in the image. This Paderone model dates from 1951 and features the original 73-year-old alligator strap with a gold-plated Rolex signature buckle.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
Featuring a triple calendar and moon phase complication, this Rolex design is breathtaking. This is the material of choice for many vintage (Rolex) collectors, and rightly so. Together with the 6062 (which was produced in slightly higher numbers), these watches highlight a bygone era of Rolex.
The Amsterdam Watch Company reported that this Rolex Paderone exhibited at the PAN Amsterdam Fair has found a new home for watch collectors. Congratulations to the new owners!
