Occasionally, a large box with a Seiko watch arrives at Fratero’s office. It includes brand releases for the next few months, allowing you to review and take photos in advance. I still remember when I discovered the Seiko SPB317 in 2022. I quickly fell in love with that relatively thin C-shaped case, and wrote an introduction to it and ordered it. However, I didn’t think the introductory article would be the very reason why I left my collection behind. What began as a praise for Seiko’s modern reinterpretation has evolved quietly into the fixation of its source material. This is the journey that ultimately led me to the Vintage 6105-8000. In hindsight, SPB317 was not a destination. It was just a small part of the path to getting there.
That introduction article was also my introduction Go to Vintage Seiko 6105-8000. Like many, I knew Captain Willard of 1970 (Reference 6105-8110). However, I had never seen that slim counterpart in two years. That streamlined C-shaped case immediately spoke to me. I didn’t look much into the details as the modern re-edit SPB317 seemed like a sufficiently good re-interpretation– I didn’t.
Seiko SPB317
With a 41mm C-shaped stainless steel case, the Seiko SPB317 is bigger than I normally wear. However, it is worn less than you think due to its streamlined shape and just 12.5mm thickness. It is also due to the modest 46mm rug pan. As mentioned before, I was immediately drawn to the design and how it fits on my 17cm wrist. I have tried the Doxa Sub 300 Searambler before and liked this, but the small dial and double bezel also felt a bit. The SPB317 felt like a modest version of it.
So I decided to order the SPB317 and wore it with a lot of joy during the summer. It’s a real strap monster and can handle most situations except perhaps more formal situations. And I wasn’t the only one who thought the turtle’s origins were a great watch, as Seiko calls it. SPB317 has advanced to the Seiko World Cup final. So I played against RJ’s Marinemaster 300 SBDX001. I’m still impressed that my entry almost won.
However, there were certainly some that bothered me about the Seiko SPB317. From the beginning, I didn’t understand why Seiko went to a more rectangular marker rather than a square marker of 6105-8000. Also, the circular cutouts at four 30 are rarely referred to as date windows. So I began to look more and more in the direction of the original 6105-8000.
Daini Seiko 6105-8000
I follow some heavy vintage Seiko accounts on Instagram. Occasionally, a good example of 6105-8000 went through my feed and I got the SPB317 and still got my hungry. But then I saw a post from a Dutch watchmaker who was selling his Seiko 6105-8000 in the room. I asked him about it and he said it was one of the few (27 known examples) 6105-8000 and the time marker and hand was 6105-8000 filled with radium-based lume. So the dial has a swastika sign under the “150m waterproof” text, but also a take-up bridge with Daini signatures.
As you can see, I didn’t know about all of these details, but I knew that this version of the Seiko 6105-8000 looked absolutely beautiful, especially compared to the Modern SPB317. The old school applied the Seiko logo and knitted date window, which added to its vintage charm, along with a very sharp and slim C-shaped case that added to its vintage charm. The diameter is 41mm, which is the same. However, the case itself is slightly slimmer as it is 12.5mm thick, but instead of the SPB317’s flash crystal, it contains a pretty protruding facet crystal.
Seiko 6105-8000
Seiko SPB317
The lug pan is 2mm longer, and the lug width is 19mm instead of 20 in the latest version. But it’s still very washed down on my wrist.
It’s not very capable, but more attractive
After negotiations I decided to buy a vintage Seiko 6105-8000 and I’m over the moon with it. The machined case still feels very sharp, but the bezel is a bit loose. Of course, this is a much less capable watch than the SPB317. It has an older movement with less power reserves, no hacking and no hand-winding. And because it’s water resistance I’m not going to test it out, it’s safe. But that seems very good. As mentioned before, SPB317 is a decent reinterpretation, but it cannot compete with the 6105 vintage charm. Square time marker with pumpkin room, fully encapsulated decapsulated crown signed, it all looks very good together.
I paid 2,000 euros for a vintage Seiko 6105-8000. This is more expensive than most of Seiko vintage-inspired divers, and some people already find it too expensive. Of course, you need to decide for yourself whether you think it is worth it or not. Through SPB317 I found my favorite Seiko diver in terms of design. Now that I’ve got the original version, the hunger for Seiko divers is still and I think it’ll take a while before I get bored of seeing the 6105-8000.
I replaced the SPB317 with another vintage piece
I lived in the collection for several months alongside modern and vintage versions. But I decided that didn’t make much sense. Anyway, I always wear the 6105-8000. That’s why I was planning to put the SPB317 for sale on Watch Forum. But I saw someone offering a vintage Mont Blanc 242 fountain pen from the 1950s. He said he was willing to trade it for a watch, so I proposed a swap with the SPB317 and we reached an agreement. So instead of the watch collecting dust in the watchbox, I now write a note with a beautiful grey Tiger Imon blank pen.
Have you ever changed from a modern version of the same watch to a vintage version? I’d like to hear what you’re talking about in the comments below.
