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If you’ve spent much time browsing vintage gold watches, you’ve probably seen the huge variety of case types available. Not only was it there; Available in solid 9K, 14K, and 18K gold, as well as plated, filled, and rolled gold. There are options for each purity. Each has had its ups and downs, but it’s clear that there was a market for gold at every conceivable price point. So where did they go? Why should we only buy stainless steel or 18K gold watches now? Case purity may be reduced Will you ever make a comeback?
Comparison of plating and PVD
The possible elephant in the room for this discussion The spread of PVD coatingThis has largely made the traditional electroplating format obsolete. Why would anyone need an affordable solid gold version when PVD coatings offer the same look at the plating price? Indeed, the PVD process (physical vapor deposition) is more expensive than electroplated gold. Although it creates a much more durable finish, it is by no means permanent. It can become scratched and worn over time, and unlike gold plating, it cannot be reapplied.
The coating is only 1 to 5 microns thick, so no amount of sanding will expose the metal underneath. Any claims of water or sweat resistance are actually related to the stainless steel or titanium case underneath the coating and have nothing to do with the PVD itself. So if you plan on making your gold watch an heirloom, or you simply don’t want to see the gray metal exposed after a few years, solid gold is still your best bet. Strictly speaking, outside of watchmaking, gold PVD is considered costume jewelry.
The inevitable contradiction of affordable precious metals
One possible explanation for the loss of 9K and 14K gold watches is that only the wealthy can afford gold watches, and those who can only care about the highest purity. The disparity between rich and poor may be a very real issue, but it is not yet so extreme that watch lovers can be categorized as either poor or rich. One of the main attractions of a solid gold watch is that it retains some of its material value. So if you’re trying to spend your money wisely, it makes a lot of sense to buy things that inherently retain their value. This is true whether the watch is 18K or 9K gold, and eliminating less pure options will only prevent people with less disposable income from making such smart purchases.
9K Gold’s response to dismissal
9K gold is often ridiculed, claimed to not be real gold, or viewed with an attitude that it’s not worth owning. Thankfully, When alloys are involvedemotional reactions are ultimately irrelevant. There is no threshold at which an alloy becomes gold. Gold is gold, and 9K gold alloy contains 37.5% gold by weight. Granted, that means 62.5% of the watch is made of other metals, but other metals eliminate gold in the same way that 18K gold eliminates 25% of non-gold alloys. There is no such thing. If a buyer pays for gold, there’s no way it’s not real gold.
Whether it’s advertising or psychology that created this perceived gulf in quality between 9K and 18K, 9K gold is still worth buying as long as you understand that it’s worth 37.5% . For those on a tight budget, there is still an opportunity to invest in solid gold, and in fact, most jewelers offer a wide range of 9K jewelry because more people can afford it. Although there is a fair chance of discoloration over time, it is easy to clean and will always look better than plating or PVD coatings.
Why 14K gold is the best of both worlds and more
In addition to the advantage of being cheaper than 18k gold, 14K is also the most durable gold alloy. A common misconception is that pure gold is softer and the higher the purity, the more easily it scratches, but this ignores the effect of alloying metals. Copper is also not completely scratch-resistant, so the hardness of 9K and 18K alloys is actually very close. 14K has a gold content of 58.5%, which is balanced for optimal scratch resistance.
White gold alloys are even more durable because their non-gold metal components, such as silver and palladium, are harder than copper. 14K white gold has less gold content than 18K, so it often doesn’t require rhodium plating to hide its yellow tint. Technically, 14K is the better material unless you’re looking for the weight and rich yellow hue that 18K gold has.
judgment
Whether it’s something practical like durability or simply being more affordable, there are clear advantages to watches made of less pure gold. Entry-level luxury brands such as TissotFor example, selling a solid gold gentleman for $9,000 has the best chance of success. The only thing holding them back seems to be misplaced prejudice from both consumers and brands. It would probably take a successful release from a big name brand to prove that. The Swatch Group experimented with bronze gold, but it was never available on a wide range of models and was limited to two Omega and one Blancpain. Until then, be sure to check out vintage samples that are missing in the modern market.
