I’m rarely surrounded by more than 6 freaks. It happened to me recently. You’ve received a warning that your watch will arrive, but how do you prepare for such an eventuality? That’s why you open the box and discover the Freak S in pink gold, the Freak S Norma, the Freak One in navy blue, and the Freak One in pink gold. When I saw Freak One, Freak X Marquetry, and Freak X OPS lined up in front of me, I thought: I’m a little surprised. Looking at all six Ulysse Nardin Freak watches at once can be quite a challenge. That’s why we created a video (click the play button above). Here we will give you an overview of the freaks you will see.
When former Ulysse Nardin brand owner Rolf Schneider and watchmaker Dr. Ludwig Oechslin introduced the Freak at Baselworld in 2001, they probably didn’t know that they were not just introducing a provocative watch. It would have been. The original Freak can also be seen as the birth of the current nouvelle horlogerie genre, which includes MB&F, Urwerk, HYT, and more. But both men were keenly aware that they had created a watch unlike anything seen before. Freaks eschewed dials, hands, and crowns, but more or less traditionally displayed the time. The bezel is designed to set the time, and the automatic movement can also be wound by flipping the case over. Yes, it was surprisingly different.
First Ulysse Nardin Freak of 2001
Ulysse Nardin Freak’s Magic
The concept of the Freak movement is original and unique and still stands out 23 years later. It has a power reserve of one week (!) and starts with a mainspring barrel that rotates once every 12 hours. The hour hand is a movable bridge that holds the hour wheel’s arbor in place. It is attached to the barrel and travels along a rack around the inside perimeter of the case. The hour wheel also drives a central pinion that rotates the gear train, escapement, hairspring, balance, and minute hand once every hour along a separate surrounding rack.
This construction was not only innovative, but also allowed Oeschlin to do away with the traditional crown and devise a rotating case for winding the mainspring. It’s a highly technical concept and a great visual spectacle.
Freak One: Direct descendant
A direct descendant of the original Freak is Freak One. The latest in the series is the Freak One Navy Blue (US$66,800 / €67,500) with a 44mm titanium and carbon composite case. The beating, or rather whirling, heart of this freak is the 229-part automatic caliber UN-240. This flying merry-go-round uses a special grinder system from Ulysse Nardin. The brand introduced Grinder technology in its InnoVision 2 concept watch in 2017. This technology is designed so that even the slightest movement of the wrist can power the movement. This system guarantees automatic winding twice as fast and, in the case of the caliber UN-240, a power reserve of 90 hours. However, if you want to do something interesting and unusual, you can also flip the case over and wind the movement manually.
The movement also uses an escapement made from DIAMonSIL, a proprietary high-tech diamond-coated silicone. The black and blue colorway could be considered camo or stealth when worn with denim. In other words, no matter how impressive it is when viewed up close, it blends into a large clock when viewed from a distance. It’s also made from lightweight materials, making it a comfortable companion.
The titanium and rose gold Freak One (US$71,000 / €71,800) is more sociable. The first Freaks came in yellow gold and were also a statement of style. However, with its sparkling pink gold bezel and angular design that makes it easy to set the time, the Freak One is also a vibrant piece that attracts attention. First, the eye is drawn to its detailed case design, and then the eye is inevitably drawn to the rose gold-colored rotating movement.
Overwhelming Freak S
The slightly larger Freak S model has a 45mm case. Fratello headquarters had two of the three current Freak S models at its disposal. One is the “Standard” Freak S, a limited edition of 75 pieces housed in a black DLC-treated titanium, black ceramic and pink gold case (US$140,800 / €142,500). The second is the Freak S Nomad with a titanium and carbon composite case, limited edition of 99 pieces (US$148,300 / €150,000). This model boldly juxtaposes modernist carbon fiber with a centuries-old diamond guilloché pattern. The result is a dynamic object that conveys time in the most creative way.
Both Freak S versions are powered by the 373-part automatic flying carousel caliber UN-251. It is equipped with the brand’s efficient grinder system for winding the big barrel and offers a 72-hour power reserve. The two angled oscillators give the UN-251 a very attractive construction. These oscillators swing on two different planes at a 20 degree inclination. They are held in place by a spaceship-like bridge.
A stunning differential links two oversized silicone balance wheels with inertia blocks and DIAMonSIL escape wheels. The differential is used to derive the average rate of both balance wheels to optimize adjustment. These balance wheels operate at a frequency of 18,000vph (2.5Hz).
Freak X is a freak of the people and for the people
The nine watches in the Freak X collection may be the most elusive Freaks out there. why? Because there are some contradictory facts. The Freak X model is the most financially accessible model. The Freak X Ti Blue features a blue PVD-treated titanium case and is priced at USD 27,500 / EUR 27,800, while the Freak X OPS features a striking carbon fiber case with green epoxy resin at USD 35,000 / EUR 35,300 . The 43mm case is the smallest of the Freaks, so it is the easiest size to wear. It is also the easiest to operate. I think you can see why. The Freak X is equipped with a traditional crown for winding and setting the movement.
Did you hear someone shout “blasphemy!”? I understand the sentiment, but sometimes the ends justify the means. To this day, this freak is able to disseminate information with a unique concept and win the hearts of open-minded watch enthusiasts. Moreover, the automatic caliber UN-230 in the Freak X is still quite complex.
The movement consists of over 405 parts. Automatic caliber with central rotor and 72 hours of power reserve. However, some things are still “normal”, such as the movement’s flying carousel with silicone balance wheel and escapement, suspended by a bridge that acts as the minute hand and a second bridge that acts as the hour hand.
What is Ulysse Nardin freak to me?
Out of the six Freak models we received, we shortlisted three. The Freak X OPS looks great in a cool camo pattern. Its size, lightweight construction, and fabric straps make it a very contemporary piece that reflects the zeitgeist. Freak S Nomad is a visual spectacle so captivating and captivating that it’s hard to look away. On the strength of its beauty, it ranked number 2 on my arbitrary list. Because I don’t think I’ll be able to do my job well if I wear this every day. This freak is too distracting.
But for me, the Freak One Navy Blue is Freak. This direct descendant pays homage to the original Freak in an impressive way. It also features a great movement and an edgy case design. An added bonus is the black and blue colorway, which matches everything I have in my wardrobe. Which freak would you choose?
If you want an overview of all the Freaks currently available, visit the official Ulysse Nardin website.
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