Jamie Weiss
Have you heard of color theory? It is essentially the study of how different colors work, what they mean, and how they affect our emotions and perceptions. For example, green evokes nature, but also growth, abundance, peace, and most importantly, wealth. When it comes to watches, green dials are often associated with exclusivity and prestige, and there is something especially luxurious about green. Of course, gold is also a color associated with wealth, for obvious reasons. So when you combine the two on the canvas that is Vacheron Constantin, you have a recipe for luxury. Earlier this year, at Watches and Wonders, we got hands-on with Vacheron Constantin’s new Overseas Green collection, which features the first-ever Overseas model with a green dial. The collection includes several different interpretations of the iconic luxury sports watch, but we decided to focus specifically on the Overseas Dual Time, which, at least in my opinion, stands out in the collection.
Incident
Now, let’s get to the point. Or rather, the gold studs. The Overseas Dual Time from Vacheron Constantin’s Green Collection features a case made of 18K pink gold. Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s Style and Heritage Director, explains that the reason for pairing the Overseas’ first green dial with pink gold is that “the dark green complements the brilliance of the gold and ensures excellent visibility of the watch’s functions.” He hopes that this green and gold color combination will become as iconic as the blue-dial Overseas watch. This may be a bit optimistic, but only time will tell.
At 41mm in diameter, the Overseas Dual Time is rather large, and the gold gives it a nice weight. In my experience, the Overseas tends to sit quite flat on the wrist, making it a deceptively large watch. In gold, the effect is even stronger, so keep that in mind. Of course, for some, gold watches are better when they are big and bold. You want to feel the weight. The pink gold alloy that Vacheron used here is very shiny, and the light brass hue nicely complements the green dial.
The gold is beautifully finished; the vertically brushed lugs and circularly brushed setting contrast with the polished bezel and case sides, with a thin polished bevel running from the case to the bracelet. At 12mm thick, it’s perfectly dressy, yet water resistant to 150 metres.
Dial
Yes, this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time has a green dial, but let’s look a little closer at the hue. Compared to some of the green dials Vacheron has recently debuted in its Traditionel collection (such as this green/platinum Traditionel Tourbillon or the green/gold Traditionel Manual-Winding), this dial is much greener, with a very bright sunburst accentuated by multiple layers of glossy lacquer. It’s closer to emerald than forest green.
One thing that sets the Overseas Dual Time apart from the other models in the Overseas Green Collection is the red highlights on the tips of the GMT and AM/PM hands. Admittedly, it’s a very subtle touch, but the slight touch of red contrast makes the Dual Time aesthetically stand out from the other models in the Green Collection.
strap
Like nearly all Overseas models, this green and gold Overseas Dual Time is available with three strap options. Firstly, there’s an integrated gold bracelet with links and a butterfly clasp that recalls Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross logo. It also comes with two green straps: a rubber number and a leather strap, both of which feature pink gold hardware and are easily interchangeable thanks to the Overseas’ quick-change system.
motion
The movement is the in-house 5110 DT, with a 60-hour power reserve and the Geneva Seal. A wide mainplate with elegant Côtes de Genève and beveled screws peeks out from behind a large 22K gold rotor (because, of course, this watch was short on gold). It’s a particularly user-friendly design for a travel watch, being a true GMT movement, with an additional hand that can be moved in hourly increments via the crown, and a pusher just below it at 4:30 that advances the date display. Instead of using a 24-hour hand, there’s an AM/PM indicator at 9 o’clock connected to the GMT hand, allowing you to read the second time zone at a glance.
Verdict
As an Australian, I would be remiss if I didn’t point out that green and gold are our national sporting colours, making this Vacheron a particularly appealing watch for those in the Southern Hemisphere. But I also think the dual time complication makes this watch even more Australian. Let me explain. Australians love to travel internationally, and most Australians have friends and family overseas. So for a wealthy, jet-setting Australian (or Brazilian, which are also Brazilian colours), this Vacheron makes a lot of sense… Or maybe that’s just me telling myself why I prefer the dual time over the other complications in the green collection.
To be honest, the Overseas Dual Time is my dream watch (specifically, the Overseas Dual Time Everest). I openly say that if I could only wear one watch, it would be the Overseas Dual Time. To be honest, I probably wouldn’t want to own this gold version (especially if it was my only watch), but it’s still very beautiful. The combination of green and gold is just noble, and it’s a perfect match for a watch whose name itself symbolizes the allure of international travel.
Pricing and Availability for the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Collection
of The Vacheron Constantin Green Collection Overseas Dual Time is available now at Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers. Price: USD 75,500, AUD 126,000
Brand Vacheron Constantin Model Overseas Dual Time Reference Number 7920V/210R-B965 Case Size 41mm (D) x 12mm (T) Case Material 18K pink gold Water Resistance 150 meters Crystal Sapphire front and back Dial Green sunburst Lug Width Integrated Strap 18K pink gold bracelet with butterfly clasp
Green leather and rubber strap, quick release, 18K pink gold buckle Movement 5110 DT, in-house, automatic, Geneva Seal Power reserve 60 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT, AM/PM Available Now Price $75,500 USD
126,000 Australian dollars
