Zach Brass
Vacheron Constantin’s overseas perpetual calendar Ultra-Thin is the range that many people classify into the Grail Watch collection. Whether it’s a solid dial or open work model, it’s respected for its thin design, high complications and handsome aesthetics, but this is a design with a considerable fan base. There were already quite a few options, but today two new watches came out. One is a more monochromatic run of pink gold, while the other white gold variant has a rich, contrasting dial colour. Let’s get into it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvep5dogtbu
case
The Overseas Persistent Calendar UltraTin is a 41.5mm watch with a thickness of just 8.1mm and may not be ultra-thin within categories such as the Dress Watch category. But for advanced monitoring like a permanent calendar, it is certainly very thin. Also, since it is a 49mm lug-to-rug, I think it is often worn on wrists that are close to the average size. The final point of the case specifications, the case is rated 50 meters water resistant so you don’t wear it while diving, but technically it can be safe on the surface, but at least it can melt if you run into rain or don’t have to run to the nearest Vacheron constentin Boutique.
As expected of members of the Holy Trinity, the incident and its matching bracelets provide a high level of finish on the surface. Most of the cases and bracelets come with satin brushes rich in accents, such as a malta cloth-inspired bezel.
Dial
As already spoiled, there is one run in 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold. The pink gold model is mostly monochromatic, with the dial running with a golden translucent lacquer with a satin snuggle finish. The perpetual calendar subdials have a finish, and once you reach the edge of the dial, there is what Vaccheron Constantine calls “velvet finish.”
The index of hands and application time is also counterfeited in pink gold, with the moon face disc and the moon above it being made of pink gold. Apart from the applied time index with blue-luminous white bright filling within the hands and a few minutes, the only subtle injection of color can be found in the Minute Track marked with blue. For clarity, each quadrant indicator for the month indicates 12 months. Therefore, the blue section shows the repeats of January, April, July, and October and 12 months within the LEAP year every four years. So, no, that’s not a typo.
The white gold model takes the opposite route. Instead of having a silver or case matching dial tone, Vacheron Constantin chose to have a punch in contrast to the Burgundy Lacquer Dial and White Metal, which share the same finishing style and layout as the metal dial. The indicators for The Minutes Track and this month’s Leap Year Sector of the Month even feature a similar injection of Cyan Blue. However, with this dial, the hands, applied time index, and moon face disc moons are manufactured in 18K white gold and tailored to the case. And the moon phase is probably easy to identify with the 18k white gold moon applied to the dial-matching burgundy background.
strap
Continuing the finish and line of the case, the bracelet is primarily satin brushed, but not just the shoulder edge of the bracelet. These polish lines are clear, oozing out the luxury and showcase the very high standards that Vacheron Constantin manufactures and designs watches.
The bracelet is secured to the wrist via a folding butterfly clasp and can be easily attached and removed from the case thanks to the Vacheron Constantin’s replaceable strap system. For recording, the bracelet also features a simple adjustment system that provides in-flight extensions on either side of the clasp.
To complement each aesthetic, the pink gold variant is bundled with two interchangeable rubber straps, dark blue and one white.
Meanwhile, the white gold variant includes a dial-matching red/burgundy rubber strap along the white rubber strap.
These straps are sturdy yet supple, with extremely comfortable wrists and are secured to the wrist via a case matching buckle with a unique interchangeable system that allows for quick replacement between the straps.
Movement
Both models are powered by Geneva’s distinctive, in-house automatic 1120 QP/1 ultrathin movement. It’s not only a very technical caliber, but also a very nice caliber to look at. The movement decoration is very refined, elegant and elegant, with hand-washed striping, chamfering, penetration and 22k gold rotors.
It is only 4.05mm thick, and the 1120 QP/1 ultimately allows the case to be elongated to be 8.1mm thick. With an automatic 40-hour diameter, there is no maximum power reserve. Therefore, I recommend getting a winder for this watch to choke and keep setting all the signs and times at all times. I use the Wolf Rocket Travel Winder on my personal permanent calendar watch, and it’s an absolute lifesaver. Especially if you have not fluent in all cases to manually correct the adaptation of your perpetual calendar watch.
Speaking of signs, as an eternal calendar, the clock can show the hours and minutes, the current day, date, and month, and the phase of the month. There are also indicators of the year of jumping. As perpetual calendars are like mechanical computers, this is a clock and unless the power reserve is exhausted, Winder recommendations do not need to be manually revised until 2100.
verdict
The rose lens sunglasses I wear all the time give it here, but my personal pick is the white gold variant with a powerful burgundy lacquer dial that really stands out for me. I’m usually a team bracelet on the strap and certainly wear this watch on a bracelet often. But I actually got to see myself wearing a dial matching strap in this example.
I am grateful that even in the white gold configuration there is a perfectly matching strap on the dial. I think it would be best that Vacheron Constantin chose the dark blue rubber strap rather than the dial matching strap for the pink gold variant, but that bracelet gives a much more contrast to the very solid color watch.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Permanent Calendar Ultra-Thin Pricing and Availability
This new duo of Ultra Thin Watches from Vacheron Constantin International Permanent Calendar is available for enquiries now. Price: 111,650 euros (excluding VAT)
Brand Vacheron Constantin Model
4300V/220G-H151 Case Dimensions 41.5mm(d) x 8.1mm
