Borna Bosniak
We’re only two weeks into the first month of the year, and Vacheron Constantin has already given us a watch that is likely to be the watch of the year. Following the release of a rich yellow gold model, the historic brand will celebrate its 270th anniversary in style in 2025 with the blue dial Vacheron Constantin 222 in steel. It retains all the hallmarks of its predecessor, including the notched bezel and the discreet Maltese cross embedded in the lower right lug, but this time with a matte powder blue dial. And, coincidentally, I had the pleasure of experiencing the new Steel 222 in person at Melbourne Discovery Studios ahead of its official launch.
No wonder Vacheron Constantin, which (fittingly) announced the return of the 222 in 2022, chose to wait a little longer to incorporate Jorg Heysek’s design into a new steel model. An astonishing 270 years of history makes Vacheron Constantin one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world and the oldest watch manufacturer with an unbroken history. And this is the perfect watch to start the year of our 270th anniversary.
case
Given that the content here is the most important novelty, let’s start there. The brushed finish is so fine that it looks like it has been media blasted. I’ve praised Vacheron Constantin’s finishes in the past when it comes to titanium, but it’s clear that metal isn’t the issue with this Steel 222. High polish is used sparingly to great effect, framing the notched bezel and beautifying the mid-case bevel. The tops of the lugs are particularly beautiful, with the bevels being widest as the case transitions and gradually thinning out towards the outside.
On the wrist, the Steel 222 is noticeably lighter than its solid gold counterpart, but without sacrificing any of the comfort of an H-link bracelet. Considering the wide lugs and bracelet design, it can be worn larger than its 37mm diameter, but thanks to its 7.95mm thickness, it’s not so large that it becomes unwieldy. The sudden downward movement of the lugs instantly angles the bracelet around your wrist for a more comfortable fit on your wrist.
dial
Blue has become Vacheron Constantin’s signature color in recent years, largely due to another integrated bracelet watch, the Overseas. The brand wanted to differentiate the Steel 222, so it made sense to equip it with a flat blue dial that blends perfectly with the all-brushed finish of the steel case. The baton hands and markers, as well as the Maltese cross at 12 o’clock, are all white gold, giving an extra shine that highlights the small polished areas of the case.
Like many other matte dials, you can’t fully appreciate this one until you see it in person. Rather than the depth of the Overseas’ lacquer, the 222’s matte blue accentuates its thin contours, while the white gold appliqués play a key role in adding dimension. While maintaining historical accuracy, the 222 is simply a two-handed watch with a date, and Vacheron Constantin fully embraces the latter. Rather than eschewing that and sweeping it under the 4 index, the brand surrounds the black-on-white date window with a white gold surround. The typeface on the date wheel also reflects the brand’s 1970s inspiration, with distinctive serifed numbers like this 7 standing out.
bracelet
As with any integrated bracelet watch, the experience is not complete without the bracelet. The 222 has each link chamfered on the side, with its signature line running along the shoulder of the entire assembly, meeting the case bevel, and ending with a discreet butterfly clasp.
As you can see, the links are not fully articulated, giving the bracelet a reassuringly tight feel, but with just the right amount of movement to make it comfortable for wide wrists. There is no bevel between the links themselves, which gives you another neat light effect. The links are very close to each other, giving an almost low-poly effect. I’m not sure if this is an intentional nod to its 70’s origins, but I can totally appreciate the quirkiness of the design.
movement
The construction of the 222’s in-house caliber 2455/2 dates back to another memorable year for Vacheron Constantin, in this case the 250th, when it was presented as the 2475. Its 22K 3N yellow gold rotor stands out against the steel background. Replenishes the 40-hour power reserve of the 4Hz movement. Despite being a full-rotor automatic, it maintains both its slim 3.6mm profile and the considerable level of hand-finishing required for Poincon de Genève certification. The highlight here, once again, is the rotor, which mirrors the 222’s bezel, with most of its surfaces in a very nice matte finish.
One difference between the product you’re looking at and the one that ends up on a customer’s wrist is that the production version features an engraving on the case back commemorating the brand’s 270th anniversary. If you look carefully at the bottom left corner, you can see a small “270” inside a stylized Maltese cross. Naturally, this will only be available on the 222, which goes on sale in 2025.
judgment
I already mentioned at the beginning how I feel about this watch. With so many vintage re-releases, it takes something truly special to stand out, and the Vacheron Constantin 222 is an homage done right. The powder blue dial is stunning, especially with the brilliance of the white gold hour markers, and the case and bracelet are just as good as the 2022 yellow gold. I think it’s safe to say that a steel version release is coming. It’s a given, and despite this expectation and the high entry price of the 222, which (understandably) rivals the AP jumbo, I’m not sure if the new I can’t shake the excitement of 222. Constantine’s 270th birthday present is truly a vintage year when it comes to 2025 releases.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Steel price and availability
The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 is a boutique exclusive item. Vacheron Constantin confirmed that while this is not a limited edition, it is a “limited production” model. Price: AU$53,500, USD 32,000, CHF 32,000
Brand Vacheron Constantin Model Historiques 222 Reference 4200H/222A-B934 Case dimensions 37mm (D) x 7.95mm (T) Case material Stainless steel, 18K yellow gold Maltese cross Water resistance 50 meters Crystal Sapphire front and back Dial Matte blue, white gold Markers, hands and logos Lug width Integrated bracelet and strap Steel H-links Bracelet, butterfly clasp Movement 2455/2, in-house, self-winding, Geneva Seal certified Power reserve 40 hours Functions Hours, minutes, date Availability Exclusive to boutiques, limited edition Price A$53,500
$32,000
32,000 Swiss Francs