At Fratello, we love to offer up good, helpful consumer advice. Unfortunately, we won’t be doing that today. Instead, we’re going to write about our experience trying on one of our favorite watches released this year, the Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes. This watch is no longer available, even if you were able to buy it. To avoid any disappointment later, I wanted to share this sad news with you before I wax poetic about the watch.
In short, this is completely useless consumer advice. Still, we don’t always have to get what we want. There’s beauty in admiring something from afar. Join me as I explore some lovely hard-to-find items.
Cartier Torture Appeal
I’m not the first person to fall in love with the Cartier Tortue; our dear Fratello buddy George Kramer documented his hunt for one almost a decade ago. There’s something elusive about the Tortue. Cynics would surely call it a fake rarity, and I’ll admit I am. But in a way, I like that Cartier doesn’t release the Tortue very often. The low production numbers and high-end finishes only add to its appeal.
Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph ca. 1929
But that’s not all. The Tortue is also interesting because it’s one of Louis Cartier’s original shapes. He designed the first one in 1912, five years before the Tank. Of his iconic models, only the Santos (1904) and Tonneau (1906) are older. Some of Cartier’s later watches can look a little contrived, but the Tortue is definitely not one of them. It clearly stands out as one of the original expressions of Cartier’s design language. Its balance is perfectly coherent and organic. Great design tends to have a sense of urgency, and I really feel that here.
I declared the Tortue Monopoussoir to be one of my favorite watches, and I am right, but after trying it out, I was pleasantly surprised by the time-only version – it’s not as special as the chronograph, but the design and finish are just as perfect.
Cartier Tortue Hour/Minute Specifications
Cartier introduced the latest version of the time-only Tortue at Watches and Wonders this year. There were three versions. The first was a yellow gold model limited to 200 pieces. The second was in platinum with platinum numerals and limited to 200 pieces. The third was also in platinum and featured a diamond-paved case. This final version was limited to 50 pieces. It is no longer listed on Cartier’s website.
Finish aside, the case measures 32.9mm wide and 41.1mm long (including lugs). That may sound small, but the turtle-inspired shape gives it plenty of presence on the wrist. Most notably, the case is just 7.2mm thick. Holding the Tortue in my hand, I was reminded that it’s rare to see a thin watch these days. The thinness adds to its elegance and comfort.
Inside is the hand-wound Caliber 430 MC, based on the Piaget Caliber 430P. This movement is just 2mm thick and runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour. It has a power reserve of 38 hours. The accuracy is not stated, but who cares if there is no second hand? I applaud Cartier for prioritizing thinness over specs like power reserve and accuracy. As a result, it stands out in a sea of watches with impressive specs but mediocre looks.
Dialing Options
Most of the early Cartier Tortue models came with guilloched dials, and you may remember the distinctive vintage flower rosette in the center. These newer versions are a bit more minimalist. The dials are opaline and have a very fine-grain media blasted finish.
An early Tortu watch with a time-only display, featuring a guilloché dial and Roman numerals.
This looks especially good on my 18K yellow gold version, which has a pale gold dial and glossy painted black numerals – a high-contrast combination that’s more classic than the applied numerals on the platinum model.
Another attractive element are the Breguet-style hands. Unlike most previous Tortue models, they are not blued, but rather made from the same material as the case. Combined with the opaline dial, they create a more understated and subtle aesthetic than previous versions. Other changes, such as moving the minute track to the perimeter of the dial, help to streamline the design.
Wearing the Cartier Torture Hours/Minute
When I put the Cartier Tortue on my wrist, it took a while for my brain to adjust. The Monopoussoir is an easy transition from the sporty watches I usually wear, thanks to its beefy proportions. The Hours/Minutes is, in other words, an “old world watch.” It doesn’t play by the rules of modern watches. Rather, it’s small, flat, and elegant. It requires confidence to wear, but that makes it look cooler to me.
Overall, I found the watch easy to handle. There’s something off about a watch with decidedly vintage proportions that feels like a chunk of precious metal. It looks elegant, but never feels like it. This disconnect is fascinating.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have a chance to try on the 18K yellow gold version, which I would have preferred; I was hoping it would have a bit more presence than the platinum version. Still, I quickly got used to the platinum model. Maybe it was the combination with the army jacket, but I felt like an early 20th century general. Thanks to the tortue. It has a chic and regal vibe. For a moment, I seriously considered growing a pencil-parted moustache. Maybe that’s an exaggeration.
lastly
It’s no secret that the Cartier Tortue is my dream watch. The thing is, this watch overturns my preconceived notions of watches. It has none of the looks, specs, features, or reasons I normally look for in a watch, or what draws me to watches like the Rolex Explorer or Submariner. Those are my comfort zones, but this watch goes way beyond them.
Still, I feel like I could sell all my watches and be perfectly happy with just the yellow gold Tortue. It’s a good thing that all 200 pieces were sold long ago…
What do you think of the Cartier Torture Hours/Minute? Let us know in the comments below!
