In December 2023, Breitling announced that it would acquire Universal Genève and that the brand would return to the market in 2026. Since then, speculation about the model and movement has been rampant. There is no information to share yet. Still, Universal Geneva has announced three one-off pole router watches to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the SAS transpolar flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles.
Universal Geneve will not release a serial production model until 2026. However, the brand has introduced three unique SAS pole router pieces that combine Genevan métiers d’art, a new case, and a vintage movement. One watch will be auctioned by Philips in May 2025, while the other two watches will be kept in the brand’s archives. We went to see the watch in person at an event celebrating the transpolar flight in Copenhagen. Enjoy the photos!
SAS Paul Router 70th Anniversary Watch
The SAS pole router will be familiar to vintage collectors. These watches look identical to Gérald Genta-designed pieces from the ’50s and early ’60s, such as the model I reviewed in 2019. That said, Universal Genève has raised the bar with these unique pieces in terms of finishing. We’ll talk about that later, but let’s quickly explain the general specs.
specification
All three watches are 35mm in diameter, 45.4mm lug to lug, and only 9.95mm thick, exactly the same as the original models. It has distinctive twisted lugs and a curved sapphire crystal shape for a modern feel. Although some may criticize this, it allows the watch to meet the 50 meter water resistance rating. The familiar multifaceted screw-down caseback is engraved with the Polerouter logo and features various engravings.
Restored 60’s Microtor 1-69 movement
The nod to antiquity relates to the use of a 60’s vintage microtor movement. The Pole Router’s slim profile is thanks to these automatic calibers. Specifically, these new creations use the caliber 1-69, which has a power reserve of 57 hours and a frequency of 18,000 vph. This is a welcome and appropriate choice for a watch commemorating a historical event.
Flagship White Gold SAS Pole Router
The highlight of the trio is the white gold SAS pole router. Like the other two models, it has guilloché decoration, but with a very special addition. In short, this bracelet is worth a closer look.
Universal Genève collaborated with Genevan Laurent Jollier, Switzerland’s last chain manufacturer. The result is a detailed 18K white gold work of art that perfectly conveys the jet-setting 50s. Includes a signed folding clasp featuring the brand’s legendary logo.
This piece has a blue circular brushed dial with a white gold rehole and rhodium-plated hands. Also note the modern SAS logo and the 50’s SAS logo, as well as the new Universal Genéve logo. Overall, this is a beautiful watch that should perform well at charity auctions.
18k red gold SAS pole router
The archival piece features an 18K red gold case with a black dial with a circular brushed finish. The hands of this watch also have 18K red gold plating and white printing. Unlike the auction version, this one comes with a black calfskin strap and solid gold pin buckle.
Stainless steel pieces complete the trio
The final version in stainless steel was created to commemorate the 1954 transpolar flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles. This watch has a silver dial and red gold-plated hands. Once again, this watch comes with a black calfskin strap with a steel pin buckle.
final thoughts
While these special SAS Polerouter releases may not specifically predict what will happen from Universal Geneva in 2026, there are some important takeaways. First, the new brand logo is visible. Second, the company’s focus on luxury watches is exemplified by the striking bracelet and guilloché Léaud. By the time the white gold version goes up for auction in May 2025, it will be much closer to 2026. For now, enjoy these three works.
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