Two new Luna Rossa Panerai luminors: PAM01653 and PAM01654

Panerai launched the Luna Rossa Edition Flood at Watches and Wonders 2024. This year, after showing a more continuous and fundamental presence, the permanent calendar GMT Platinumtech, Luna Rossa Editions, is back with two new illuminator models. Panerai also announced an extension with the Luna Rossa Sailing Team and will continue the partnership to take them to the 38th America’s Cup in 2027. Though it is not the birthplace of Panerai in the inland city of Florence, the lace is primarily concentrated on the coast of Naples. Under the careful eyes of Mount Vesuvius and the sky at Azurlo, the region provides a stunning backdrop for the world’s oldest international sport.

Two new Panerai luminor models have been announced in collaboration with Luna Rossa. Avoiding the typical blue dial with a red accent is a duet of the muted gray dials of the TIME-only PAM01653 and Chrono flyback PAM01654. Starting with the Luminor PAM01653, this most familiar case design symbolizes Panerai. The 44mm cushion case includes an unmistakable Panerai Crown Protector with lever releases for winding and setting. The signature silhouette ensures that Panerai Luminol stands out from the rest of the watches on the market. The 42mm case would be more preferred than I like, but the 44mm version has a short lug and shoots a 24mm strap. Despite the difficult dimensions, this design allows the case to sit well on most wrists.

Panerai Lighting Equipment Luna Rossa PAM01653

The two watches share a gray dial shade, but the case material is different. For the PAM01653, there is a stainless steel case, but if you dig deeper, you will see that there is more. This case uses premium AISI 316LVM steel, already known for its corrosion resistance. In addition to this, the vacuum arcrimel will remel to increase purity and increase corrosion resistance. Like 904L steel, it not only strengthens the structure, but also beautifully polishes it. This sparkle-intensive Panerai mixes against a brush and polished surface with a polished bezel and brushed crown protector. The grey dial is very prominent compared to the previous Luna Rossa dial with the Sunburst Blue dial. However, this monochrome aesthetic complements the look of a tool watch over its luxurious style.

It is the hand of the 9 o’clock secondary that offsets the grey ocean, with a flash of red, observing the “Rossa” part of the name. This red stretches into a black and gray bimaterial strap, along with what is officially called the Luna Rossa Stripe. However, you can refer to the Prada redline logo unofficially. That’s appropriate as Prada also sponsors Luna Rossa sailing team. Therefore, there are Italian fashion houses that compete in Italy with historic Italian watch brands sponsoring Italian racing teams (though there are Swiss-made watches). We can see why continuing this partnership is essential and appropriate for all involved. The PAM01653’s power supply is a letter P.6000 caliber with a 72-hour power reserve and a 3Hz (21,600VPH) frequency. For 6,700 euros/US$6,900/£5,700, the Time-only Panerai Luminor is one of the more approachable Luna Rossa editions.

Panerai Lighting Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa Titanio PAM01654

Stepping up another level is the limited edition of 150 pieces, the Luminor Chrono Flyback PAM01654. A similar gray dial, matching strap and red accent look like the PAM01653, but this chrono flyback is heading in a new direction. First, with a diameter of 44mm, the titanium case is 44% lighter than the steel case. Titanium also boasts natural corrosion resistance and hypoallergenic properties. This quality benefits people whose skin can’t withstand nickel. This accounts for 15% of cases in steel models. The PAM01654 brings flyback chronograph functionality while maintaining its distinctive oversized crown protector. Therefore, the pusher is sitting on the left side of the case. This may or may not be desirable depending on which wrist you are wearing. The flyback feature allows you to reset your chronosecond hand to zero during continuous execution, achieving minimal downtime while timing consecutive events.

The flyback function is essential for regatta style sailing when passing through a timing gate. This event may use high-tech transponders for official timing, but crews can use the clock as reference during the race. The dial’s rehabilitation also displays a calibrated tachimeter scale for nautical miles to promote Marine Corps qualification. Despite having a twin counter, the PAM01654 has a 12-hour chronograph total device at 3am. This clear display is thanks to the fact that the chronograph’s Minute Counter also lives in the Central Pinion. This hand has a white base and red tip instead of an all-red chronosecond hand to distinguish the signs. The gray dial features hollow numbers with a layer of white Super Luminova X1 below, forming a sandwich structure. Depending on the material and the source of movement, PAM01654 is the above layer, 15,900 EUR / 16,400 US$ / £13,400.

Final specifications and thoughts

The power of the PAM01654’s flyback chronograph is an automatic P.9100 caliber and also has a 72-hour power reserve, which can be reduced when running the chronograph. The P.9100 also has a vertical clutch and column wheel for smooth actuation of the elapsed timing function. Unlike the PAM01653, which has a solid steel case back, this watch makes the caliber visible through the window of the sapphire exhibition. However, both models have a depth rating of 100m, which is a shame. Given the history of diving in Panerai, I am amazed that the illuminator model does not aim for depth. It’s good to distinguish between a brightness line and a dive line that can reach 300 meters, but it feels a bit shallow considering it’s packed with technology.

The luminor Chrono flyback is also quite thick. The 17.7mm case profile is proportional to 44mm diameter, but wears more than the PAM01653 for only thinner times. My last thought is that while it’s good to continue our partnership with Luna Rossa and provide great watches to buyers, these models are the 14th and 15th references of the Luna Rossa collection. It was a very frequently released schedule for Panerai considering that the partnership was only launched in 2019. I think the rather uncommon approach of the Luna Rossa collection made each piece feel more special. Both models are available online and in-store, with PAM01654 limited to 150 units.

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