When you think of Fortis watches, the first thing that probably comes to mind is the famous Cosmonaut Chronograph. I agree with that too. But creating a broader context, I think the Fortis catalog can be defined by its wide selection of rugged, modern-looking tool watches. From the Marine Master to the Flieger to the Stratoliner, they all have instantly recognizable Fortis design features. With the introduction of the new Fortis Vagabond V-40, the brand adds to its catalog a series of GMTs firmly rooted in the past. However, as you would expect from Fortis, the vintage-inspired design is combined with the best of modern manufacturing quality. Let’s take a closer look.
I was very surprised when the new Fortis Vagabond V-40 series landed on my desk. These watches have a design that I wasn’t expecting from Fortis. I’m a fan of the Novonaut N-42, the successor to the brand’s popular Cosmonaut chronograph. When reviewing this series, I was reminded of both the visual brilliance and incredible build quality of Fortis watches. That being said, the Stratoliner and Flieger collections also have some great modern watches. A great example of this is the Fratello x Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Umber Brown Capsule Edition, which we developed in collaboration with the brand.
The new Fortis Vagabond V-40 series immediately stands out
But anyone familiar with all the different lines in the brand’s catalog will know that the new Vagabond model is a step in a new direction. At first glance, the style of this new range appears to be inspired by 1960s and 70s design. This is an interesting take on the current GMT watch and is sure to attract new fans to the brand. The new watch features a rectangular tonneau-shaped 40mm grade 5 titanium case and 200m water resistance.
Fortis offers watches with three dial colors. The first is a deep sunray blue, the second is a textured light gray, and the third and final option is a sunray anthracite. Each of these dials features a combined hour and minute track on the outer periphery.
The 12-hour markers have rectangular indexes for even hours and numbers for unequal hours. All non-number markers are filled with white Super-LumiNova, making them easy to read in the dark.
A dial full of clever design choices
Moving from the hours/minutes track to the inside, you’ll find a large 18K white gold ring engraved with the 24-hour GMT scale. As you can see, the date window appears instead of the “12” at 6 o’clock. This is a clever design trick that neatly integrates the date window. Another great thing is the fonts that the designers have created for different scales. It strikes the perfect balance between classic elegance and contemporary relevance.
The handset consists of pencil-shaped hour and minute hands and a sharp needle-shaped second hand. The smaller GMT hand features an orange arrow-shaped tip and is filled with white Super-LumiNova, as are the hour and minute hands.
The upper half of the central part of the dial has the Fortis logo, while the lower half has the Vagabond name and the text “Chronometer Certified”, the latter indicating the accuracy of the movement.
Fortis Vagabond V-40 series is very well made
But before we get to the movements, it’s a good idea to highlight all the little details that make these watches stand out. Although the case may look retro when viewed from the front, its structure and side view give the watch a more modern feel. As you can see, the bracelet is attached to the case with large screws.
In addition to that, the combination of primarily brushed and polished finishes emphasizes the angles of the case, making it look much more modern than initially expected.
Overall, the dial has a funky 70’s feel to it. However, if you look at the details, you will see that it is carefully crafted and finished. Every detail, from the combination of the white gold GMT ring’s circular brushed top and polished sides to the sharpness of the applied markers and numerals, is extremely well executed. The case exterior is no slouch either, displaying excellent finish quality and a beautifully branded crown.
Equipped with block bracelet
The case is paired with a grade 5 titanium bracelet. If you’re a Fortis fan, you’ll be familiar with the brand’s block bracelet design. Here, the use of titanium makes it sturdy and lightweight, and it features slotted links for easy size adjustment. The bracelet also has a folding clasp with push button release and fine adjustment slide. However, it is worth noting that the bracelet is not tapered.
I usually don’t care too much when it comes to serious tool watches like the Fortis Novonaut or Fleiger. However, in the case of this Vagabond, it would have been nice to have a taper as the case is a little more elegant. That being said, the current bracelet is certainly comfortable. Minimal weight and size options ensure a great fit.
Fortis Werk 13 developed with Kenissi
Turn the watch and you’ll get a glimpse of the chronometer-certified Werk 13, developed in collaboration with Kenissi. The automatic movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, has 28 jewels and offers a 70-hour power reserve. Adopts a bidirectional rotor and fixed traverse bridges on both sides to improve shock and vibration resistance.
This is a flyer-style GMT movement that allows the 12-hour hand to move in hourly increments. As with most GMT movements of this type, you can also adjust the date forward or backward by moving the 12-hour hand.
Wearing Fortis Vagabond V-40
Since it is made of titanium, it is a fun watch to wear. The light weight and sculpting of the 40mm case allows this watch to fit comfortably on wrists of various sizes, even with a lug-to-lug distance of 51mm and a thickness of 13.9mm. The watch feels solid in size and dimension, but it’s not too big or heavy. I love this bracelet. This is a perfect example of how great bracelets can be. Other than the lack of the nice taper I already mentioned, the build quality of this brand’s block bracelets is great. You can also get a similar sense of luxury by operating the crown to change the time and date.
All of this made wearing the three watches a great pleasure. I wasn’t expecting anything different from Fortis, but the standards this brand has set can only be described as impressive. I’m not usually attracted to watches with this kind of design, but after wearing the three models, I found them appealing. Additionally, I thought the new Vagabond series was too retro at first, but after using these watches I changed my mind. The more I used it, the more I realized that it didn’t have an overly retro feel, but rather a modern tool watch with a bit of retro feel.
Final thoughts on the new Fortis Vagabond V-40
Overall, the new Vagabond series is an interesting addition to the brand’s collection. With this trio of new GMT watches, Fortis introduces a different design aesthetic that stands out in both the brand’s collection and the overall watch landscape. The method of indicating a second time zone is not new, aesthetically it brings to mind the Oris Aquis GMT, but the finish looks unique. Additionally, Fortis and Kenissi have teamed up to equip these watches with the completely modern Flyer GMT caliber. This shows that Fortis has put a lot of effort into creating these watches, which are currently available for 6,800 euros.
These efforts, combined with the usual high level of quality production, have resulted in an interesting new Fortis line. If you like the design, you might want to check out the new Vagabond V-40. So many great details make this an interesting series of modern traveler’s watches. Yes, you read that correctly. I started my review by saying that although these watches have designs rooted in the past, they are certainly modern watches at heart. That’s why they fit easily into the brand’s collection. This is another great job by Fortis.
Let us know what you think about the new Vagabond series. Check it out on Fortis’ official website.
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