The world of microbrands can be strange. Industry logic only applies to some of these brands. Things that should go wrong often do, and things that should be a hit often fail. But it’s also a wonderful world, as sometimes great watches like the Albischone Type 10 are released.
Even when a truly great watch appears on the market, it often doesn’t become an instant hit. Potential buyers need background information. Some might say that if your watch doesn’t speak to you right away, you should forget about it. This watch is worth the extra 5 minutes you spend reading this article.
albihorn
My friendship with Sébastien Chaumont goes back to the first Baselworld trade show I attended in 2015 or 2016. As an avid fan of vintage Angelus watches, I knew what kind of person he was and what he meant to the vintage (Angelus) watch community. Our acquaintances developed a friendship over the years after meeting at multiple watch events around the world. I am proud to say that at one point we even collaborated on a project led by our colleague Dr. Christoph Ohm Kuehnle. One of Sebastian’s constant talking points was his desire to start a watch brand that offered watches unlike anything the industry had ever seen before. I remember that in the summer of 2023 we were standing in the hall of Beau Rivage. At the time, he and his head of design, Fabian Colliud, were excitedly explaining the final stages of preparation for the new Albishon watch brand. Incidentally, the name comes from a spot in Switzerland’s Albis Hills.
During the same event this summer, life came full circle as we celebrated the launch of Albichaun’s first release, the Maxigraph by Albichaun x Massena Lab. I have to admit that we got a glimpse of the new Albishorn lineup on Watches and Wonders earlier this year, but seeing the watch finally hit the market and seeing the positive feedback it received, it’s a different story. There was. The successful release of the Maxigraph during Geneva Watch Days put Albihorn on the right track. But we’re here to take a closer look at what else this brand was hiding. Therefore, this time we will not be talking about the Maxigraph, but about Albishon’s second launch, the Type 10. The brand says:
We create original and unique mechanical watches that can be called “missing links.” They blend seamlessly into the history of watchmaking, yet each has its own individuality. We create watches we call “Imaginary Vintage®.”
This is a great way to summarize what we’re about to discuss. This is a reprint of a vintage watch that never existed.
type 10
If you’re familiar with vintage chronographs and military watches, you’re probably familiar with the iconic Type 20 watch, made for the French Ministry of Defense in the early 1950s. Albichon type 10 is their fictional predecessor. What would have happened if Albihorn had existed before and after World War II, and the Ministry had commissioned the brand to produce the first type of chronograph immediately after the end of the war?Following this train of thought, the Albihorn type 10 is similar to other military watches of the time. However, the execution is unlike anything we’ve seen before. Just as the Maxigraph is the first model in Albishorn’s Water Collection, the Type 10 Classic and Type 10 Sihlwald are the first additions to the Air Collection. Okay, enough background. Let’s take a closer look at the Albishawn Type 10 Classic.
Wearability
Albishorn’s website has a lot of details about not only the watch, but its backstory. If you want to know more about the brand and understand its philosophy, please visit. But as the saying goes, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. In our case, it’s wearability. First and foremost, the Type 10 is not a small watch, with a bezel width of 41.7 mm (39 mm without bezel). Is it too big? Not at all. But if you want a 36-37mm watch, you might think so. Despite its width, it is only 12mm thick with a sapphire crystal thanks to its unique hand-wound movement. Finally, the length from lug tip to lug tip is 47.7mm, which is a standard length and not particularly long.
The first thing that many people find odd is that the crown is between 10 and 11 o’clock and the pushers are between 9 and 10 o’clock. I was skeptical at first too, but once on my wrist, the watch works surprisingly well even with these “odd” placements. The Type 10 features a bidirectional DLC-coated stainless steel bezel with engraving, lacquered, and Super-LumiNova-filled markings. The width makes it easy to rotate and read. The case is made of 316L steel with polished and satin-finished surfaces and chamfered and polished edges. However, due to the width of the bezel, the lugs are the only visible part of the case when worn on the wrist. Both Type 10s come with a 20mm wide leather strap in black (Classic) or green (Shirwald) and a second beige leather strap option, all with quick-release spring bars.
Ease of use
The Type 10 fits comfortably on your wrist, and the crown and chronograph monopushers are easy to use. Inside the Albichon Type 10 is the brand’s patented and exclusive chronograph caliber ALB02 M. This is explained in more detail below. First, let’s take a look at the watch face itself. When I showed this watch to a fellow enthusiast, the first comment was about the black textured dial. In fact, this is one of the most distinguishing characteristics of Type 10. For example, like the Type 20, this watch has two subdials. But this time it’s not 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. Instead, the running seconds register is at 4:30 and the 30-minute counter is at 7:30. The Albischone Type 10 also hides a special feature under the luminous lollipop of the central chronograph hand.
When the chronograph is activated and the hands begin to move, an aperture appears between the 12 and the Albischone logo. Patented chronograph function indicator. When you start Chrono, the dot turns red. When you stop it, it turns white. After resetting the chronograph, the aperture color below the lollipop will return to black. The white pencil’s needle is wider than normal, making it easier to read. It has been coated with beige Super-LumiNova to give it a more vintage look, but it doesn’t have a very patina-like feel to it.
unique caliber
Many brands, while good looking, often require a proper movement to match the model, but this is not the case with the Albishon Type 10. It has a never-before-seen overall design and an equally unusual caliber. The watch is equipped with the brand’s robust and reliable proprietary mechanical chronograph movement. No, this is not a Sellita, but a highly improved COSC-certified Valjoux produced in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Caliber ALB02 M has a power reserve of 65 hours, a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz) and 21 jewels. The movement is only 5.7 mm thick, making it ideal for watches with a vintage chronograph look and thickness.
When I asked Sebastian to explain what inspired him to design the Type 10 movement, he explained the process:
Long before I joined Manufacture La Joux Perret as Head of Innovation and later worked at Sellita and Manufacture AMT, I had already developed the modules and complications of the Valjoux 7750. For example, around that time I co-developed COS (crown operations). System) Chronograph jointly patented with Richard Hubling. If I ever built my own chronograph, I always thought I’d use the 7750 as a base and add a few key improvements. It is necessary to significantly reduce the height or make the layout original. Chronograph movement should be smoother. Finally, we add some patented complications. All these considerations are addressed in Type 10.
What did you leave unsaid?
The term “microbrand” is a bit vague. Sometimes it refers to private label brands that sell 500 euro watches with mechanical quartz movements, sometimes it refers to brands like Albishorn. The Type 10 costs CHF 3,950, so it cannot be considered a luxury watch. Still, it stands out from the haze of microbrands for several reasons, from its unique look to its patented movement. You could call it a limited edition watch. Albichon Type 10 is not a limited edition, but is limited by production capacity. The first batch of 25 pieces is available now, with deliveries expected to begin in early November 2024.
I reviewed the Type 10 Classic, but it’s worth mentioning that a Type 10 Sihlwald version is also available. This model features a green dial and leather strap, bronze winding crown and red chronograph hands. Regardless of which version you choose, if you’re a fan of vintage chronographs and military items in general, look no further. A watch was found.
