Zach Brass
It’s difficult to make it original in the integrated bracelet category. With established icons like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, even if the watch was released previously, it is often plagued by commentary that suggests that the design borrows elements from the aforementioned duo. One such example is Girard-Perregaux Laureato, who debuted in 1975, a year before 1975. But today it’s not about Patek, GP or AP. Today I’m talking about Trilobe. Trilobe was able to debut an integrated design that would enter the saturated category in a way that would fit the all-too-common term “Novelty.” This is not only due to the brand’s signature digital displays, but also from brand new manufacturing that will bring about the brand’s first in-house movement.
The sportiest watch to date, Trilobe Trente-Deux (32), named after the address of a workshop in Paris, is given its name to celebrate the way the watch is more French than ever, thanks to its newly opened manufacturing industry just outside of Paris. “Our manufacturing includes a precision component production facility near Paris,” explains Trilobe. “This is essential to ensuring quality, ensuring supply chains and maintaining freedom to innovate, and is a critical step in a vertical integration strategy.”
Movement
The first result of the new production is the new manufacturing caliber, the X-Nihilo Caliber. In Trilobe’s own words, it was “conceptualized, designed, developed, prototyped, machined, decorated, completely in-house assembled,” with a minor exception, a hairspring-like component that was outsourced as most brands.
It is a 42-hour automatic movement with a 5n gold treated surface and handsome frost, bored and bevellous. Even the screenweed is polished black and has been painted with diamonds for screws and gemstones. The large square bridge covers a considerable portion of the inner mechanism, carved with a balance wheel and is isolated on its own island. The balance in particular feels very Breguet inspired. This makes sense given the French roots of Breguet and the Three Yoves. We often see other watchmakers entitled Breguet’s numbers or help, so seeing balance bridges like Breguet’s is less common to legendary Paris watchmakers.
case
The 50-meter water-resistant stainless steel case with diameter 39.5mm, thickness 10.15mm, and lug-to-lug 46.18mm is made up of seven different components, and is an alternative to brush, polished and microblasted finishes. The bezel is also finely crafted, giving it an extra elegance to its sporty look. The brushing of the case and the refined bevelled accents found on the lug and sides of the case run to a high level that will certainly enhance the sense of luxury.
Whether it’s a wrist (a 7-inch or sobrist from Marcus as seen in the photo, or a tiny 6.5-inch wrist), the watch sits very comfortably. A more compact lug-to-lag span corresponds to most wrist sizes, with camber nullifying concerns about measuring end links from fixed end links. I’m also grateful that the fins of the case are used on both the 3 and 9 o’clock sides, due to the lack of a better phrase. The functional measure on the right to protect the crown, but on the left, its sole design purpose is to maintain the symmetry of the case.
Dial
Within the context of Trilobe Design, the most familiar element of the watch is the blue and grey dials offered in the new Trente-Deux. Of course, it means the brand’s signature digital display, which is a through line of design, rather than the staples of blue or gray.
For both dials, such rich textures are expressed in the finish. Firstly, the metallic ring and opening on the dial are very polished and bevellous. But secondly, the colored surfaces have multiple textures. Whether blue or gray, there is a matte sunray finish, a grain disc for hours and minutes, and a second wheel that combines azurage and clous de parisguilloché. Not only does it look handsome, but it also makes it easier to read because the different textures allow you to better identify individual rings and better identify them as responsible.
The pitfall of mechanically driven watches using digital displays is that they can be very static and sterile. But with the Trilobe Trente-Deux, it really helps to remind anyone watching on the dial that the clock is alive with its travel second ring of movement. Many of us love the Holy Grail, like the Cartier Tank Agichets. Having to wait every minute of jumps can be a bit too climactic. The dial is constantly moving here. Each layer, hours, minutes and seconds wander into its own mathematical drum.
strap
The bracelet shows the same high level of finish as it integrates, but for me the highlighter is the spring load clasp. Supplied by the venerable G&FChâtelain, this is exactly the same as the leaf chain sachet found in Richard Mill and Chanel watches. You can get a little used to it, but once (very quickly) you’ll wonder why all brands don’t use this style of clasp.
verdict
Some say they feel the case fin is very Nautilus-like, and the case and bracelet are a bit Vaccheron Constantin 222 style. Maybe it was visually intriguing the dial and movement that overlooked the controversial visual similarities, but I think the highest level of comfort and quality found in both such visual intrigue and both the Trent Doe variations would outweigh any such possible comparison. To say I’m a huge fan of this watch might be an understatement, but to say I don’t want it is a lie.
Two points of my feedback (I communicated directly to the brand while processing the watch in the Geneva Watch era) were, first, 100 meters water resistance would be more optimal, and second, there would have been a longer power reserve for the caliber. To be fair, I’m not too confused about the second point. As data-free, time-only automatic, lower movement endurance will not really hurt wear and ownership experience, especially when you get a lot of automatic wear times on the wrist.
But as Trilobe’s first sporty watch, the market type requires 100 meters of water resistance to the watch to feel like a truly safe, sporty everyday wearer. To be fair, the water-resistant cry was something the brand told me was a point of repeated feedback and was already considering a solution. So if this is a big competing point for you at this moment, I definitely look forward to it.
At 17,500 euros (excluding tax), young brands like Trilobe may discover consumers in the downhole of consumers bauled with price tags (although French manufacturers should avoid consumers from Swiss-level tariffs!), but in my opinion it is believed to be paying overall external and international attention. The static mechanical digital dial, the Trilobe Trente-Deux, is truly on my hunting list. The team really had to pull me off the table. Don’t believe it? If you’ve ever met Jamie or Marcus, they’ll tell you it’s 100% true. (Editor’s note: You can check it.)
Trilobe Trente-Deux (32) Pricing and availability
The Trilobe Trente-Deux (32) is currently available for purchase. Price: 17,500 euros (excluding tax)
Brand 3 Trilobi Model Torrent Dews (32) Case Dimensions 39.5mm(d) x 10.15mm
