Borna Bosniaks
If you want an example of just how deep a niche you can get into, an interest in watches is the perfect path to get there. Though it has grown in popularity over the past few years, the Rolex Submariner and Patek Philippe Nautilus are just a few of the many different craftsmanships that watchmaking has to offer. In this buying guide, we focus on one of them and explore the best marquetry dial watches on the market. What is marquetry? It is a dial decoration technique that involves arranging intricate pieces of natural materials such as wood, feathers, and leather in a mosaic pattern. Since dials are often made up of hundreds of tiny elements and a variety of materials, the result is often a very limited number of watches. If you thought guilloching was difficult…
XRby Rose Saneuil Quetzal
XRby isn’t a household name, but the Quetzal is a fairly unique offering that’s surprisingly affordable for what’s on offer. The Schwarz Etienne micro-rotor is minimally decorated (though the marquetry on the rotor is pretty cool), but the sapphire case and Quetzal dial motif are in a league of their own. In total, there are 214 elements made up of 16 different materials that make up the dial, including birdseye maple, sycamore, hornbeam, and leather. Price: CHF 19,800 (approx. US$23,000)
Bvlgari Divas Dream Peacock Diski
Unlike the XRby, which has a bird-inspired dial without using actual feather material, the Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi is less obviously bird-inspired, but does use actual peacock feathers to create a marquetry pattern. Two discs represent the hours and minutes, indicated by blue gemstones set into the case, which separate the azure blue and emerald green feathers. Round cut diamonds in place of the peacock feather “eyes” may or may not have been intentional, but it’s a great stylistic choice. Price: USD 69,000
Ulysse Nardin Marine Blast Freewheel Marquetry
Ulysse Nardin may not be known for its use of silicon, despite being the first brand to use it in a watch movement with the Freak in 2001. To celebrate this achievement, Ulysse Nardin is also using silicon on its dials, the latest of which is this Blast Freewheel model. The effect is achieved using 103 thin pieces of matte or polished silicone material, measuring just 0.3mm or 0.35mm, respectively. This makes the Blast Freewheel Marquetry a little different from other marquetry dial watches, as the majority of the caliber in its flying configuration is actually front and center, with the reflective dial taking a step back to let the UN-176 flying tourbillon movement shine. Price: USD 137,200
Patek Philippe ref. 5089G-129 Beach Morning
It’s always an exciting time when Patek Philippe unveils new products at the first big watch fair of the year. For 2024, they’ve focused on their Rare Handcrafts collection, showcasing scenes finished using the most difficult techniques, including cloisonné, miniature painting, and of course marquetry. I chose “Morning on the Beach.” It’s not something I would have ever expected to see painted by a Patek, but in a most Patek-esque way, it depicts a solitary scene in exquisite marquetry. Price: On request
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon A Tribute to Art Deco Style
If we are to talk about the most special marquetry dials, we must mention Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Tribute to Art Deco Style. The inspiration is clear, with the crown-like projections surrounding the tourbillon aperture towering over the entrance to one of New York’s historic landmarks. Made from stained pear and tulipwood, it is framed in rose gold to match the case. This piece focuses on the overall experience, including hand engraving and diamond markers, which makes it unique. Price: POA
