Zach Brass
Lately, the sporty Tissot PRX has been all the rage. It’s understandably made waves across the industry as an attractive entry point into ’70s-inspired one-piece sports watch design. But in contrast to the sporty PRX, the Swiss brand has a long tradition of dress watches. The latest Chemin des Tourelles, named after the road where the manufacture was founded, is proof that Tissot still has dress watch chops. And the new Tissot Chemin Des Tourelles Skeleton brings a new dimension to the collection with an openwork dial, adding a modern touch to the classic dress watch.
option
The model comes in three different styles, each with their own personality and differences. Perhaps the most classic finish features a sunburst ivory-colored chapter ring, gold-plated hands and baton indexes. Tissot has also modernized it a bit, introducing a blue dial variant with traditional elements like a hobnail texture on the chapter ring and Roman numerals. Notably, it is offered on a five-link metal bracelet, giving it a casual, everyday vibe. However, the model we have in our hands is the most modern-feeling, with a stealthy, smoky black aesthetic.
Case and Dial
With a black PVD case and smoked crystal, this watch is a dark and mysterious timepiece that cleverly incorporates classic elements such as Alpha-style hands and a chapter ring with applied indexes to create a futuristic look. The skeletonization of the watch allows the movement to be seen, but at the same time, the smoked crystal hides the Powermatic 80 calibre, creating the effect of darkened bridges that better match the exterior color scheme.
The case diameter is 39mm, which many would consider just the right size, and in this particular rendition, it’s a bit more understated thanks to the black PVD-coated stainless steel with a mixed finish. The bezel is very thin, which makes the watch feel a bit larger visually, but you’ll be glad to know that it’s less than 44mm from lug to lug. The case also has a reasonable thickness of 11.2mm, including the domed sapphire crystal. The case is also water resistant to 50 meters, so you’ll have peace of mind if you go for a swim in the water. The openwork dial is the biggest change that Chemin Des Tourelles Skeleton brings to the mix, exposing the Powermatic 80 movement, the same movement that powers their automatic PRX watches.
motion
The Powermatic 80 was only added to the Chemin des Tourelles line last year, and while these models have remained very clean and classic, the Skeleton shows off the 80-hour automatic calibre by not only cutting this large window out of the dial, but also partially skeletonizing the movement. Components such as the balance and gear train are exposed, and even the barrel that holds the mainspring is notched out. The finish here is very businesslike, but with a price of $930 for this black dial model, you’re definitely getting a watch for your money.
strap
A black leather strap completes the all-black look. All of the strap options in the Tissot lineup are interchangeable with a quick-release system, but unfortunately, there is no black five-link bracelet available yet. Personally, I would prefer to keep this watch on a black strap, but at least it’s not too hassle-free to try and prove me wrong.
Verdict
This monochrome variation is a very moody realization of what previously felt like an inherently classic watch. But this model feels like it’s of the latest generation, made for those who prefer to look to the future rather than back to the past. It’s not a dial aesthetic born in the modern era, but somehow the skeletonization and openworking evoke a more modern look. Perhaps if the bridges were engraved it would feel more classic. But when the skeletonization and openworking are offered in a more industrial finish, they look more futuristic.
Ultimately, Chemin Des Tourelles Skeleton gives consumers more options and aesthetics to explore within the lineup, hitting a range of points between classic and modern in terms of look. And with the lineup starting at $895 USD, it’s in a more affordable and appealing price range for those looking for their first or simply a new skeleton watch.
Price and availability for the Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton Black
The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton Black is available now. Price: $930 USD
Brand Tissot Model Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton Reference T139.836.36.441.00 Case Size 39mm (D) x 11.2mm (T) x 44mm (LTL) Case Material PVD Coated Steel Water Resistance 50 meters Crystal Domed sapphire front, mineral back Dial Gunmetal, open Lug Width 20mm Strap Black leather strap, interchangeable, pin buckle Movement Powermatic 80, ETA C07 based, automatic Power Reserve 80 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds Availability Current Price US$930