Borna Bosniaks
Tourbillon watches can be described with a series of superlative adjectives, such as luxurious, magnificent, and accurate, but few would call a tourbillon “affordable.” This is understandable, since tourbillons are very complex to manufacture and require craftsmen to actually spend a significant amount of time on them, not just assemble them on an automated line. Well, in most cases, yes. Some Chinese manufacturers have managed to bring the price of tourbillon-equipped watches down to a few hundred dollars, although technically they are carousels, not tourbillons, but that’s a whole other story. That said, the fact that many processes can be automated does not reduce the complexity of the rotating escapement, resulting in less-than-ideal performance with questionable reliability. For these reasons, I could not in good faith include these watches in this article, but we should also be aware of their existence and the target audience for them. If you want a little fun and don’t mind spending around $500, by all means, buy one. These watches are very enjoyable watches. Instead, this list focuses on proven manufacturers who are offering a tourbillon experience at an unprecedented price point. Think under $20,000, not $200,000.
Olivier Mori – Ba111od, Yema, Delma, Louis Erard, etc.
Olivier Maury must have found some sort of cheat code when developing the T02 tourbillon movement. Produced by his company BCP Tourbillon with a number of collaborating partners, variations of the T02 are used in a number of watches, many of which are in the sub-$10,000 price range. Rather than dominating this list with Maury’s work, we thought we’d round up some of the watches that use the T02 and their price ranges. The affordable price doesn’t hurt the performance aspect of the T02, which boasts a 3Hz beat rate and a very impressive 100-hour power reserve. Apart from the three mentioned here, the French graduate from University of Morteau and BCP Tourbillon have also worked with Aventi, Patria, Louis Erard, and Code 41.
The whole idea behind Ba111od was to launch a brand that could offer complicated watches at attractive prices, with the likes of the CHPTR_Δ and the Mory tourbillon-equipped Chapter 4.1 leading the way. The Chapter 4.7 Onyx Tourbillon is a bit simpler, with a large tourbillon at 6 o’clock and encasing it in an all-black dial. Price: $7,350 USD
Given its dive watch heritage, you wouldn’t expect a brand like Yema to feature a tourbillon, but its latest Yachtingraf does, and it also features a tide indicator. Limited to 75 pieces per material, it’s available in steel or bronze, and all are under $10,000. Price: $9,990
Like Yema, Delma is a brand that focuses on tool-like timepieces, such as tough diver’s watches and Valjoux-driven chronographs. To celebrate its 100th anniversary since being founded in 1924 as A. & A. Guillomen, the brand chose to celebrate with a tourbillon. As much of the collection remains value-oriented, it makes sense to choose a value-oriented tourbillon. The 1924 Tourbillon’s DT100.1 is a bit more impressively decorated than the Ba111od and Yema equivalents, and therefore also commands a higher price. Price: USD 13,900
Horror Lensman 1.1
When you think of affordable tourbillons, Horage comes to mind. Aside from transparency regarding the origins of the components, that’s the brand’s biggest claim to fame. It’s especially impressive considering that it’s essentially all made in-house. Prices have certainly risen in the last few years (like everything else), but Horage still sells watches like the Lensman 1. It features a titanium case, water resistance to 100 meters, and a unique style inspired by rangefinder cameras. The in-house flying tourbillon K-TOU movement has a 5-day power reserve, a German-made silicon escapement, and precision to -4/+6 COSC standards. Price: CHF 9,990 (approx. US$11,550)
Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Tourbillon
Frederique Constant found early success offering classic Swiss timepieces at affordable prices, and in recent years has expanded into the luxury watch market with its collection of in-house movements. The Manufacture Classique Tourbillon is the brand’s best work to date, but the brand hasn’t forgotten its affordable roots, and despite the beauty of the finish, the price is still quite affordable at under US$20,000. And yes, the picture shows the rose gold version, but let’s not nitpick. Price: CHF 14,995 (approx. US$17,300)
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon
The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon has long reigned as the most affordable Swiss-made tourbillon, a sign of how far technology has advanced and other brands have managed to undercut it somewhat. That being said, the Carrera isn’t playing fair and, as it also features a column-wheel chronograph complication in addition to the tourbillon and is COSC-certified, it deserves a place on this list. The design of the Carrera Tourbillon has evolved over time and now includes a glass box, but the original’s angular titanium and ceramic case certainly captures the rugged TAG Heuer spirit that has remained in many models since. Price: $21,250 USD
