Borna Boschunjak
The word “cheap” has many negative connotations and has been heavily associated with Chinese manufacturing for many years. This is quickly proven false, given that companies like Seagull are trying to make ETAs produce five times the moves they produce each year, and micro-brands like Atelier Wen are trying to make craftsmanship affordable. , artists like Zehua Tan, Ma Xushu, and Celadon HH push the envelope of Haute Horlogerie. country. Chinese watch brands have a clear place in today’s watchmaking world, regardless of the category they’re talking about. Whether it’s a microbrand with strict quality control or a handmade independent, the word “made in China” is far more likely to feel at ease thanks to modern technology and working standards. Masu. Here are some of the best Chinese watch brands to prove this.
Seagull
Starting in 1955 with just four watchmakers, Tianjin Seagull (or Sea Gull) is now the world’s largest manufacturer of mechanical watch movements. In fact, it is estimated to be a quarter of the total production of mechanical movements around the world. In addition to providing movement to countless brands, the brand itself produces a wide selection of watches with a variety of styles and complications. The most famous watch and movement must be a Segal 1963 chronograph originally issued by the Chinese Air Force and equipped with the ST19. The movement has its roots in Switzerland. In Switzerland, the company of Venus had to sell the machines and patents needed to build a chronograph with 175 rows of Venus and wheels. Currently, 1963 is in many collections as a historic and affordable chronograph, and the ST19 is used by hundreds of microbrands who want to offer the same thing. The recent introduction of Seagull’s split-second chronograph for just 3,500 US dollars is no longer a cheap fun.
Borna’s Pick: Seagull1963. Price: ~US $150
San Martin
San Martin cuts teeth with numerous homage pieces, but its innovative design features brings you the ranks up and builds quality. Today their catalogue boasts a large number of original designs and continues to capitalize on Seiko’s outstanding third-party moves, such as the NH34 GMT caliber. For hundreds of dollars (if you catch an Aliexpress sale), you get a very complete case of price and features like Toolss Micro-Adjust, a brand whose prices have not yet been implemented.
Borna’s Pick: San Martin SN0116-G GMT. Price: 320 US$
CIGA Design
Ciga Design, or China International Great Art Design, started in 2016 with international artists of all kinds working together and has since attracted awards like who’s business. My first exposure to them was through Series C, a playful skeleton parody of the 2017 Apple Watch and a Red Dot Award winner. The famous GPHG Challenge Watch Award. The current catalogue is very vast and has many unique and comfortable designs across an affordable range. If you’re looking for something cutting edge on a budget, CIGA Design has plenty to offer.
Borna’s Pick: Titanium from CIGA Design U Series Blue Planet. Price: USD 1,199
Atelier Wen
It started with their neat and tidy porcelain odyssey, but it is the recognition of Atelier Wen, who achieved the success of the storm. The case design combines the influence of Chinese architecture with the steel sports watch trend, and although prices are rising, it represents a valuable option compared to similar craftsmanship Swiss brands. Much of their popularity is actually Master Chen Yukai, who produces all of the works of Guilloche, actually originating from a particular artisan. Each Atelier Wen watch, devoted to the art of Guilloche and even building his own Rose engine, becomes a handmade piece of art with incredible precision.
Borna’s Pick: Atelier Wen’s Perception. Price: 3,288 US$
Behrens
For reasons beyond me, I can’t understand why Behrens is not on the radar of more enthusiasts, especially in the current climate where they are obsessed with all the tech and avant-garde. A watch like the ultra-lightweight 20G fully embody the spirit of the brand and pushes up envelopes of manufacturing possibilities, but does not charge your arms and legs for the privilege of tying them to the wrist. The curved watch case weighs only 20 grams, and it is one of the lightest watches in the world as its company double retro-grade movements are scattered over the dial.
Borna’s Pick: Behrens Ultra-Light 20g. Price: 7,600 US$
Lin Yong Hua
To become one of the greats, technical proficiency is not enough. It also requires creativity, and Lin Yong Hua has both aspects. He is an independent watchmaker based in Shenzhen, each filling in a watch with a unique personality. One of his latest developments is the LYH-6, with handmade jump time movements, day/night indicators, power reserves, all on the motherboard of the pearl dial. Additionally, the exhibition casebacks show off some of the most beautiful moves in the game. “The no 4-inch watch is a celebration for music lovers, recreating a record player with a dial, and the watch, along with the likes of Philip Dufour, FP Journey, George Daniels, and more, is the Academy Hologuelle de Cleitels Independent I won a membership with.
Borna’s Pick: lyh dragonfly man. Price: 10,000 US$
Celadon
Benjamin Chi was born in Singapore and studied in London, but it was his Chinese heritage that was called the strongest. Following the passion for custom-made items and watches, natural advancements have led him to run three separate watch brands with incredible artisans. Founded in 2012, Celadon HH is the oldest of the three, and focuses on traditional Chinese craftsmanship and style. The brand has two means, with the Main Celadon HH collection incorporating enamel artwork from the Chinese scene, and sometimes references to Western art. Each of these watches is made to order in the movements made by Lin Yong Hua. The second collection represents traditional designs in elaborate sculptures and some beautiful colors, in a much more affordable range called Maison Celadon. Equipped with movements made by Beijing Watch Factory, it remains high-end and low-cost with extra decorations and testing of Celadon.
Borna’s Picks: Celadon HH Century Croson Nepeacock and Peony. Price: Starting from USD 14,900
Qian Guobiao
If you happen to be a Chinese collector, you may know Qian Guobiao in his nickname, the Doctor of Tour Billon, or in the shorthand a.biao. A trained engineer and self-taught watchmaker, he has repaired full-time since 2005, tinkering with his own inventions along with complex European works. Deadbeat’s second Lange or reworked Omega 30T is one thing, but the latter model of his Opus series showed actual surveillance chops. The double balancing wheel, complex adjustment system, and the split second chronograph above are all great work, but for now they remain just prototypes.
You may also have noticed the name Qian Guobiao in their 2024 collaboration with Behrens. The back is equally impressive, with the highlight being a large ruby ​​that holds the balance wheel in place, dramatically with half a bridge and a curved gear train cock.
Borna’s Pick: Behrens x Qian Guobiao Kung Fu. Price: USD 17,700
Logan Kuan Rao
Whimsical designs are not often seen in the higher tiers of watchmaking. It is something we believe is very lacking in a space where we can often take ourselves seriously. Certain brands thrive by exploiting this lack of whims (think Moser and cheese watches), but Logan Quan Lao’s approach doesn’t take much of an edge. Instead, for his first consecutive clock, Orca, he neatly integrated the animals into the design of the movement. The man who makes watches primarily with hand tools has begun to push forward from a technical achievement perspective, patenting equal push escapes as an advancement in Daniels’ coaxial system.
Borna’s Pick: Logan Quan Rao Iceberg. Price: TBC (For reference, ORCA sold for ~19,000 USD)
Tanzehua
Tan Zehua, a member of AHCI since 2019, ran a local repair shop in 1966 and began training as a watchmaker under his father, who founded his own business in 1980. , before he focused on making watches under his own name over the past decade or so. With a focus primarily on escape, he developed his own axis. This is under pending patents, but he creates his own precision tools that allow him to apply consistent, sophisticated finishes throughout the watch.
Borna’s Picks: Tan Zehua Melody Guilloche. Price: HK $232,000 (~US $29,800)
Neo-can
Have you ever wondered what would happen if the 1963 Segal used custom-made components and was extensively handmade? Well, I don’t think that’s surprising anymore, because that’s exactly what Neo Kang did for his Orienta. The movement architecture is based on the Venus 175/Seagull ST19 caliber (both Swiss and Chinese components, according to the can), but almost all of the components are hand-finished. The origins of that movement and the construction of platinum (and the resulting price) are at odds, but with experience from his tenure at Segal and Shanghai Watch Company, Neo Kung is one to watch the future.
Borna’s Pick: Neo Can Orienta. Price: CHF 35,800 (~US$40,000)
Qin Gan
After learning watchmaking from his father, Qin Gan began his career as an artist and graphic designer, gaining watches on the side. In 2014 he began his watch career. He launched a clock containing the Dragonfly Automata, followed by an impressive time clock in 2017, when he became an independent watchmaker. The Pastorale model places Qin Gan on the radar of more mainstream consumers, and is based on its movement design on the Longines 30L, with most of the components carrying a beautiful hand finish. He then introduced a second-generation Pastrale with a higher finish level, although at an eye-opening price, with a cleaner dial and a more refined case.
Borna’s Pick: Qin Gan Pastorale II. Price: 46,000 US$
Time+Tide Timeless Pick: Kiu Tai Yu
Introducing the Tourbillon in 1990, Kyutaiyu was promoted as the first watchmaker to produce Tourbillons in Asia, and the following year he became the first Asian member of the Academy Holloguere de Claireter Independants. Ta. The Hong Kong watchmaker, the inventor of the mystery tourbillon, who used sapphire discs instead of the upper bridge, left a lasting legacy after his death in 2020.
