zach blas
At Time+Tide, we’re always interested and excited to find lesser-known brands that offer quality, value-oriented watches under $3,000 that are associated with the beginnings of entry-level luxury. . Discovery Studio has opened. In a more educated market, people naturally become less fussy about luxury goods and more about quality. One brand that often stands out to us is Yema, a French watch brand that was founded in 1948 and has a long history of making diving watches. The Yema Superman Diver’s history dates back to 1967, but modern Superman watches like the Slim CMM.20 have an in-house 70-hour micro-rotor automatic winding, despite an attractive price tag of $2,490. Equipped with a movement that definitely caught our eye. Recently, Yema introduced a new variant, Yema Superman Gilt CMM.10, with a price of 650 USD cheaper. So what’s the problem?
case
The Yema Superman Gilt CMM.10, like the Slim CMM.20, has a stainless steel case with a sapphire bezel insert and features the brand’s bezel lock system, which allows the timing bezel to rotate only while the crown is loosened. . Prevents movement due to impact during diving. However, unlike the Slim CMM.20, the Gilt CMM.10 comes in both 39mm and 41mm sizes. Regardless of the size you choose, both cases are water-resistant to 300 meters (with screw-down crown) and are 13.5 mm thick (including the 2.2 mm double-domed sapphire crystal). This is 1.5mm thicker than the Slim CMM.20, including the 2mm thick crystal. From a lug to lug perspective, the 39mm Gilt CMM.10 measures 47mm and the 41mm version measures 49mm. It’s slightly thicker than the Superman Slim CMM.20 thanks to the case improvements Yema made, allowing for a more compact lug-to-lug distance. This is a job well done.
dial
Instead of the lacquered enamel dial found on the Slim CMM.20, the Superman Gilt CMM.10 opts for a sunburst dial in blue, black, silver, or green. The latter is the version we have at hand. True to the model name, all dials are combined with gold accents found on the hands, dial text, applied hour indices, and hashed outer minute track. The handset and marker are filled with Grade A Super-LumiNova, which provides a bright glow even in low-visibility environments. The lacquered enamel on the Slim CMM.20, which is probably more expensive to manufacture, has a matte appearance, while the Gilt CMM.10 Sunburst dial is semi-gloss. This adds a bit of flash and could go either way, depending on your preference. Finally, returning to the bezel, the Gilt CMM.10 insert uses a different font and has a fully hashed scale, while the Slim CMM.20 only has markings for the first 15 minutes and is more It has a look inspired by the era.
bracelet
The fishscale steel bracelet on the Gilt CMM.10 is the same as the one found on the Slim CMM.20. It’s a wonderfully unique style that aesthetically deviates from the typical Oyster style bracelets that most brands do nothing but imitate. It has a strong vintage-inspired taper right down to the double security folding clasp, which includes four drilled holes for especially fine adjustments and a diver extension system that allows you to easily strap the watch over a wetsuit.
movement
The most obvious change, at least when you flip the watch over, is the move to an automatic CMM.10 rather than a micro-rotor CMM.20. Both calibers are designed by Olivier Mory and some components are manufactured at the Morteau workshop in Yema. This is what causes the critical thickness to increase, as the entire rotor has to be placed on top of the movement rather than in line with the rest of the caliber. Personally, I think Yema’s CMM.20 is more handsome, and I enjoy the feel of filling out more of the caseback. That said, the CMM.10 has a darkened bridge, a fully balanced bridge, a 70-hour power reserve, is regulated to +5/-3 seconds per day, and is rated for higher precision. There are also advantages. It is not the +7/-3 regulation of CMM.20.
judgment
From a cost perspective, micro-rotor movements usually make the watch more expensive to begin with. I’m also guessing that the dial difference is likely the second cause. But the great news is that Yema offers great value in both configurations, at US$2,490 for the Slim CMM.20 or US$1,790 for the Gilt CMM.10. In addition to the slightly lower price, a clear potential advantage of the Gilt CMM.10 is the fact that buyers can choose between 39mm and 41mm sizes. No matter which model or dial you choose, no matter which path you choose, I don’t think you can go wrong.
Yema Superman Guilt CMM.10 Pricing and Availability
Yema Superman Guilt CMM.10 is available for purchase now. Price: $1,790
Brand Yema Model Superman Gilt CMM.10 Case Dimensions 39mm (D) x 13.5mm (T) x 47mm (LTL)
41mm (D) x 13.5mm (T) x 49mm (LTL) Case material Stainless steel, sapphire bezel insert Water resistance 300 meters, screw-down crown Crystal Sapphire crystal front and back Dial Green sunburst Strap Fish scale steel bracelet, folding Clasp movement CMM.10, designed by Olivier Molly, partially manufactured by Iema, automatic power reserve 70 Time functions, hours, minutes, seconds Available now Price $1,790
