Borna Bosniaks
What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Cartier? For me, it’s probably the classic rectangular Tank Solo with a white dial. For others, I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s one of their other watches, such as the Santos, the Love bracelet, or the Panther on a String. But how many of you think of a platinum watch with a reverse-rotating red dial?
Okay, so the image I painted of the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind is a bit extreme. In reality, it is much more refined, as we have come to expect from Cartier. But that is exactly the intrigue surrounding this recent release, as this is a move we would expect from a micro or independent brand, rather than a prestigious one like Cartier (pun totally intended). So how did Cartier achieve this? And why did they choose to go in this direction? I can objectively answer at least one of these questions.
motion
Let’s start with the movement, since the reverse rotation of the rewind is its main novelty. Cartier calls the movement inside the Santos-Dumont Rewind the 230 MC, which is a reverse-geared variation of the widely adopted 430 MC. This 18-jewel caliber boasts a 38-hour power reserve and beats at 3Hz, yet is only 2.1mm thick. Looking further into the origins, the movement was actually developed from Piaget’s 430P, a fact that is not surprising given Piaget’s commitment to ultra-thin watchmaking. Admittedly, the results may not be as impressive as Cartier’s other fine watchmaking efforts, such as the Masse Mystérieuse, but it is proof that Cartier can produce unique complications.
The finish isn’t very visible from the closed caseback, but the 430 MC is typically decorated with a plate embossed with the Cartier logo and a circular brushed wheel, so we expect the 230 MC to follow a similar trend. Given the level of decoration, we’re not upset that Cartier wouldn’t show it.
Dial
Now for the one you’ll be staring at the longest, both for its beauty and the sure-fire confusion that will ensue. Highly reflective Roman numeral indexes set into a carnelian red stone dial, matched by delicate Breguet-style hands. The dial bears no indication of its unique method of displaying time. At first glance, the Rewind is easily distinguishable from a regular Santos-Dumont. The distinctive white railway minutes run around the perimeter of the dial, matching the color with the minimal Cartier lettering above the pinion.
If you’re wondering if there’s a trick to deciphering the Rewind’s face and getting used to it turning backwards easily, well, there isn’t. At least none that I’ve found. But in the process of writing this review, I’ve gotten more and more used to telling the time on this watch. I’m glad Cartier went with numerals instead of bar indexes, which I think would take a lot of getting used to.
Incident
I know the novelty of the Santos-Dumont Rewind is the stone dial and unidirectional movement, but the platinum case is one of my favorites of any brand. The size is nearly perfect as a dressy all-around watch, and the platinum construction makes up for any weight that might be lost in the smaller size.
At 31.4mm wide and 7.3mm tall, the Santos-Dumont Rewind takes full advantage of its ultra-thin movement, leaving plenty of room for elegant lugs that extend to 43.5mm. The mirror-polished, reflective bezel is complemented by the lug bevels and other polished highlights on the crown, while the rest of the case features a highly textured brushed finish. A ruby cabochon on the beaded crown confirms this is a platinum Cartier. A true Cartier flaunt.
strap
If you’ve seen Cartier’s lacquered Santos-Dumont models, you’ll have experienced the burgundy alligator leather strap featured on the Rewind. Finished with a platinum folding clasp, it’s the perfect style choice given the overall color scheme.
Verdict
With its superbly wearable case and crimson dial, the Santos-Dumont is an attractive watch. But the inclusion of the rewind’s reverse 230 MC caliber quite literally turns the proposition on its head. This isn’t just a cool new Cartier, it’s also a unique complication proposition realised in an entirely simple way. The fact that it’s a 200-piece limited edition already means it’s an exclusive release, and its unusual time display appeals to an even smaller pool of potential buyers.
This isn’t the first Cartier to feature a unidirectional movement – the brand did something similar with the Santos Galbee Rotation Inverse – but as a platinum-cased special occasion watch it makes much more sense, one that will appeal to the most avid Cartier collectors.
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Pricing and Availability
The Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind is a limited edition of 200 pieces. Price: $38,400 USD
Brand Cartier Model Santos-Dumont Rewind Reference WGSA0102 Case Size 31.4mm (width) x 7.3mm (thickness) x 43.5mm (length) Case Material Platinum Water Resistance 30m Crystal Sapphire front Dial Carnelian stone Strap Red alligator leather, platinum folding clasp Movement 230 MC, Piaget 430P base, manual winding Power Reserve 38 hours Functions Reverse hour and minute display Stock Quantity 200 units Price US$38,400
