Adam Reeder
Gerald Genta is revered for his innovative vision and trendsetting designs. From the Universal Genève Porter to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to the Patek Philippe Nautilus, his design prowess is unquestioned. Yet it’s the designs he created for the Swiss watch giant that few know about and that we feel don’t get the recognition they deserve. The Omega Seamaster Polaris is a study in organic ’80s design that strays from Omega’s standard aesthetic language. And it’s exactly because it’s so different that we love it.
Origin story
Brands responded to the success of quartz technology in a variety of ways. Omega collaborated with other Swiss brands to create the Beta 21, a groundbreaking piece of micro-electronic engineering, but they weren’t planning on stopping there. Constantly searching for the next thing to push their company and the industry forward, the brand reached out to Gerald Genta, who was already disrupting the industry with his design work. The end result of this collaboration? The Omega Seamaster Polaris.
Polaris was released at the end of a turbulent period in the mechanical watch market: in the late 1970s and early 1980s, quartz was overtaking the entire watch industry in sales, and Omega thought the time was right to ask Genta to design an advanced quartz model in its image.
The result is a watch that retains the Seamaster name, but with plenty of Genta design DNA and a dash of early ’80s quirkiness. The Omega Seamaster Polaris is undoubtedly a one-of-a-kind watch, and is unlikely to be confused with the similarly named Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris.
What is the Omega Seamaster Polaris?
Though the Polaris was part of Omega’s famous Seamaster line, it was never a traditional diver’s watch: the standard version was just 32mm in diameter and 36mm long lug-to-lug, with the smaller model measuring just 23mm. The Polaris was not a large watch.
First released in 1982, it was a basic three-hand watch with no dive bezel and no date. The case was just 7.2mm thick, making it one of the thinnest in the Seamaster family. The original model was water resistant to just 100 meters. Models from the 1990s onwards boasted water resistance up to 300 meters, but the original Polaris release had very little “dive with me” in it, other than the word Seamaster printed at the bottom of the dial.
Appearance
Genta’s creation, the Seamaster Polaris, features an integrated bracelet design consistent with many of his designs of the time, and a brushed titanium case with a 2mm thick 18K gold inlay. The original dial design was a basic matte black with perimeter hour pips. The case and bracelet were very maximalist, with inner bracelet links and a geometric gold bezel inlay.
Various elements of the case and bracelet may offer clues as to why the dial itself has such a minimalist attitude. The links of the bracelet are slightly convex, giving it a bit more three-dimensionality than other watches. Somehow, all the elements of the watch seem slightly mismatched, but that’s what holds the whole look together. It’s a bit like an outfit for an EDM festival, with so many seemingly disparate elements that the whole look feels intentional.
His personality
Speaking of quirky, the look of this watch alone should convince you that wearing the Seamaster Polaris is more of an adventure than a chore. I love a watch that is a conversation starter, and the Seamaster Polaris provides just that. This watch is unlike anything I have ever seen before. That being said, Omega offered several different variations of the Polaris throughout the decade that it was produced.
From the original quartz three-hand model to the digital chronograph and beyond, Omega has never shied away from giving Polaris watch customers a variety of options. During the model’s production run, they also released automatic models (including an automatic chronograph). They even released a flashy model with an 18K gold inlay set with diamonds, so that anyone who wanted to join the club could choose a Polaris model.
Creative genius or mad scientist?
Genta is undoubtedly one of the great masters of watch design of the last 50 years, but are his design choices impeccable? Opinions differ on this subject. With the Seamaster Polaris, Genta has given us a sense of playfulness and daring creativity. While many of his most popular designs invite descriptions like “industrial” or “geometric,” the Polaris might be described as “whimsical” and, dare I say, “fun.”
The Omega Seamaster Polaris isn’t for everyone. Admittedly, its unusual design and small size make it a watch that’s not for most people. But its quirkiness is what makes it so special. It’s highly unique and has an incredibly interesting story behind it. It’s also a relic of a significant moment for the Swiss watch industry and the Omega brand. It’s a watch that doubles as a time capsule, and that’s what makes the Omega Seamaster Polaris worth your time.
