Buffy Acacia
How good do you have to be at making cocktails to receive an honorary medal from the emperor? At least as good as Kishi Hisashi, owner of Tokyo’s Star Bar and winner of the International Bar Association’s World Championship. Seiko collaborated with Kishi on this recent series of Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches. The catalogue is more detailed than ever before. Decadent Cocktail Watches from the Early 20th CenturyThe Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRE015 is the latest model to bring the traditional faceting technique to a modern watch.
Incident
At first glance, one might assume that the SRE015 has a diamond-set or even fluted bezel. However, in reality, the bezel is smooth and polished, but thin. It’s actually made from faceted Hardlex crystalThis was a common decorative technique before minimalist style took over, and I think it’s a great, affordable way to add texture to a watch and elevate its visual status.
The case isn’t particularly large, but the SRE015 aims to be just that. Small pinpoint lugs protrude from the round case, making it look feminine without being too dainty. Its 30.3mm diameter means it sits comfortably on slimmer wrists, but still looks impressive from afar. With a lug-to-lug length of 37mm, the bracelet sits smoothly on the wrist, and at 10.9mm thick, it’s proportionate to the overall size. Water resistance to 50 meters provides ample protection. But you probably don’t want to swim..
Dial
The Presage Star Bar SRE015 is a breath of fresh air for anyone looking for thoughtfulness and creativity in their women’s watch. Rather than pushing mother-of-pearl even further, Seiko has created a dial that evokes Tokyo nightlife. The ambient smoky darkness and cool grey lighting transport you to a high-end cocktail bar, and the frayed texture that creates dancing highlights is meant to look like the ice in a drink.
Emerging from the sea of dark textures are the applied hour markers and dauphine hands, which shine beautifully and sharply in yellow gold rather than falling into the trap of using rose gold for anything remotely pretty. The contrast with the dial makes the time easy to read as intended and highlights how well-balanced the dial’s features are. The gold Seiko logo appropriately commands attention over the printed Presage logo, and the black date window surrounded by a gold frame seems to blend into the background.
motion
The SRE015 is a small watch, so the ubiquitous 4R35 would actually be a bit too big. Instead, it uses the 2R05, which has similar specs in a small package. It runs at 21,600vph, has a 40-hour power reserve, is automatic, and has a hackable second hand. Thankfully, the crown is fairly large for the watch, so you can easily adjust the time and date as needed. There are no bells and whistles on this watch, and none really needed, so a solid caseback is the more sensible choice.
bracelet
While the quality of Seiko bracelets has improved immeasurably over the past decade, this one is especially beautiful. The elongated three-link design accentuates how it tapers in width towards the similarly milled butterfly clasp. The connecting links are brushed, with a slight interplay of texture between the rows, and the open space between the links promotes a more jewelry-like feel than a chunk of metal. If you want to wear it with a leather strap or another alternative, the 14mm lug width makes it more versatile and affordable than you might think.
Verdict
While the Seiko Presage SRE015 is by no means trying to make a statement about gendered watchmaking, it’s a great example of what we like to see on the feminine side: dark, moody, and even masculine without sacrificing elegance. That, and faceted crystal, are a lot of promising trends we hope to see grow in the future.
Seiko Presage Star Bar Limited Edition Cocktail Time SRE015 Price and Availability
The Seiko Presage Star Bar Limited Edition Cocktail Time SRE015 is limited to 6,000 numbered pieces. Price: $650 USD
Brand Seiko Model Presage Star Bar Limited Edition Cocktail Time Reference SRE015 Case Size 30.3mm (D) x 10.9mm (T) x 37mm (LTL) Case Material Stainless Steel Water Resistance 50 meters Crystal Faceted Hardlex Dial Fumé grey with scratched texture Strap and Bracelet Stainless steel bracelet Movement 2R05, in-house, automatic Power Reserve 40 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date Availability Limited to 6,000 pieces Price 650 USD
