Zach Brass
IWC’s most famous products are undoubtedly its Pilot’s Watches and Pilot’s Chronographs, as well as its Ingenieur collection. For example, IWC is known for making bold statements with colorful ceramics, but it also practices sophisticated minimalism with the discreet Portofino. In the dress watch category, sporty pieces from all brands are often talked about, but the new IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391503, which just debuted at Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2024, bridges the worlds of dressy and sporty with the model’s first bracelet, giving the design a casual elegance suitable for everyday wear.
Incident
Known for their larger diameters, IWC has been doing a great job of introducing more compact versions of their watches lately. The Portofino recently launched a new 39mm size for those who prefer a mid-size. This new, more compact Portofino case also has an increased depth rating of 50 meters, meeting the minimum required level of waterproofing for everyday wearers. Despite the increased robustness, the case remains perfectly mirror-finished, maintaining the elegant feel typically associated with the Portofino line.
Dial
The dial is also characteristic of the Portofino, with a clean, silver-plated surface that maintains its minimalism. The dial and case itself, with its slender applied indexes and leaf-shaped hands with Roman numerals peeking through, without any lume, do not deviate from the Portofino’s dress watch sensibility. It may not be an IWC pilot watch design, but the brand’s emphasis on legibility is similarly strong. Unless you’re going to complain that visibility in the dark is poor without Super-LumiNova, that’s a different story. The recessed dial counters at 12 and 6 o’clock are a differentiating feature for IWC, and most brands reverse the position of the dial’s letters and counters. The look has always given me a kind of marine chronometer vibe. There’s a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock, and no date window, tucked into a weird position. Again, crisp and classy.
bracelet
It may seem silly to some that the introduction of a bracelet would make such a big difference in appearance and category. To be honest, I would forgive someone who looks at only the case and dial and doesn’t realize that this is a new novelty. Perhaps they fell victim to the minimalism of the collection and the silver dial of this model. But the introduction of brushed finishes through this new Jubilee style bracelet and its alternating finishes lends a casual flair. I’m not saying that this makes the Portofino cockpit-ready, but it does provide an aesthetic that is comfortably suited to a country club brunch out from under a suit sleeve. If you want to wear this Portofino Chronograph on a strap, it’s entirely possible and easy to replace thanks to two quick-release pins on the back of the bracelet. I also want to highlight that it uses a butterfly style clasp, as this style clasp often fits more centrally on the wrist.
motion
On display inside is the IWC-manufactured automatic caliber 69355, which IWC incorrectly describes as being a descendant of the proven ETA 7750. However you interpret it, the 69355 does not share the same parts or dimensions as the 7750. After all, based on the IWC-manufactured 69370, the 69355 reduces the dial display to a 30-minute counter and small seconds, with no date or hour counters. It is a column-wheel chronograph, offers crisp start-stop operation, and is beautifully decorated to an industrial, but exhibition-worthy, level. Perhaps its only weakness in the modern watch market is the 46-hour power reserve, with many looking for a caliber that can last a weekend.
Verdict
With its curved lug profile, the IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391503 is a casual, dressy timepiece that can be worn with a suit and boots or with a casual outfit. With its simple dial layout and colors, it will resonate with those who have accepted the fact that they are not an explorer of the skies or seas and realize that what they ultimately need is a handsome watch that is suitable for the office or a relaxed weekend adventure. If you already love the Portofino, you will hardly need to be convinced by the proposition, but those who are still on the fence will be intrigued by the new bracelet, which has been introduced for the first time.
Price and Availability for the IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391503
The IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391503 is available to buy now. Price: USD 8,400, AUD 12,300
Brand IWC Model Portofino Chronograph 39 Reference IW391503 Case Size 39mm (D) x 13mm (T) Case Material Stainless steel Water Resistance 50 meters Crystal Sapphire crystal front and back Dial Silver plated Bracelet Steel bracelet, butterfly clasp, quick release Movement IWC 69355, IWC manufactured, automatic Power Reserve 46 hours Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph Availability Current Price US$8,400
12,300 Australian dollars
