The new Defy Chronograph Quartet launches a partnership between Zenith and USM

Borna Boschunjak

All Watches x * Insert Brands Here * Collaboration is certainly on the list of one of the more unlikely ones with furniture design companies. A little more of the work Zenith and USM Modular Furniture have done, it makes a surprising sense. As a quick intrument, if you are not familiar with o USM, their signature haller line was introduced into MOMA’s permanent collection and became a microcosm of industrial design. You can’t munch on the window shopping.

But what’s particularly interesting about the combination of the Swiss names of these two homes is that they not only tapped the USM logo on the Zenith dial to call it a day, but created an entirely new model. Taking the multifaceted case of 1969’s defy, Zenith and USM rethink it in the form of a chronograph.

case

The vibrant dial is something I spend most of my time looking at, but the design and dimensions of the case were what stood out to me at first. The Defy Chronograph USM combines the Defy A36XX octagonal case with a square bezel, combining USM’s chromed tube with all the refined facets you’d expect to find in the iconic ball joint. That complex geometry is further emphasized by several brushed planes, but I don’t think it will tone too much reflectivity.

Despite gaining three sub-dials, two pushers and one complication, the Defy Chronograph USM remains very close to the original size, with a diameter of 37.3mm. However, just like the A36XX, it is a thicker suggestion on the wrist. Although there are no accurate measurements at the time of writing, it is taller than the 13.6mm model on a Time-only model, so it should draw a pretty good picture.

Dial

The Defy Chronograph USM is available in four colorways. These all consist of green, pure orange, golden yellow and gélist blue from USM’s regular Haller lineup. Just like the grooved block index that has become a clear side to Zenith’s iconic vintage revival piece, there is Zenith’s iconic overlap subdial. This continues in a typeface that includes the “El Primero” script. The font itself isn’t that different from other Zenith watches, but its thick, fluffy printing adds boobs of vintage charm. (un) Fortunately, depending on your personal preference, it also means that the white dating wheel will infiltrate between 3am and 4am. I learned to embrace that with Zenith’s original Chronomaster model. The colors are usually the same, but with so many dials continuing, I was hoping it would have been omitted entirely for the Chronomaster revival shadow.

One of the very subtle nods to the USM can be found towards the tip of the hand in the middle chronograph seconds. I’ve briefly hinted at the brand’s ball joints before, but it appears to be joining two parts of the hand, just like connecting the USM tube frames.

bracelet

The Gay Frere ladder bracelet has become synonymous with Zenith pieces in vintage and vintage revivals. I’m glad to see it come back here with all the brushed finishes. Zenith has skillfully moved from a single brushed facet polished case that hoods the hood into the rug, allowing the bracelet to be integrated into the case more seamlessly. Naturally, their modern execution is far from the rattling (but clearly affectionate) vintage examples, finished with a long double folding clasp with all the tweak holes you need.

Movement

An expansion of the line that began more than 50 years ago, the Defy Chronograph USM is equipped with Zenith’s El Primero 400 movement. The proven chronograph caliber is famous for its high frequency at 5Hz, sports the horizontal clutch with the visual appeal of the sports column wheel and vintage chrono movement, with a two-way winding rotor lifting the 55-hour power reserve. As for decoration, it’s not often left covered here for a long time, but don’t worry.

verdict

Zenith’s Revival Line is criminally underrated for the amount of characters that exudes part of the work. I can only hope it changes, but it’s a gem like this new Defy Chronograph that can help it along with it.

Zenith ignores pricing and availability of the Chronograph USM Collection

Zenith X USM modular furniture is limited to 60 per dial color, ignoring the chronograph collection and can be used as part of an individual watch or box set. Each watch also comes with an exclusive Zenith x USM watch cabinet. When you purchase a box set, you will find four cabinets. This is modular so it can be combined into one mega cabinet if necessary. Price: CHF 10,900

Brand Zenith models ignore chronograph USM reference numbers

Case Dimensions 37mm(d) Case Material Stainless Steel Water Resistant 100m Crystal Front and Back Dial Onyx Stone Strap Stainless Steel Ladder Bracelet, Folding Clasp Movement El Primaro 400, Automatic, 5Hz Power Reserve 55 Hours Function Time, Minutes, Small Seconds, Date, Chronograph Availability

Price: CHF 10,900 (single watch)