The new Berneron Mirage 34 joins last year’s 38mm model in the compact brand’s ever-growing lineup. As we’ll see, these aren’t just scaled-down versions. Each model features a stone dial and a new caliber. Tip: These are my favorite watches of the year so far.
Sylvain Berneron is the name of the brand he launched in 2022. He did this while working as Chief Product Officer at Breitling (he has since left to focus on the company). During my time at Breitling, I had the opportunity to meet him several times, and we always had a good conversation. He is interested in cars, design in general, and of course watches. In fact, it was his Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196 that ultimately convinced me that I too needed a Calatrava. I have been following the Sylvain brand from afar, and finally had the opportunity to try out all the models in Geneva. The new Mirage 34 watch was on display and it was spectacular.
Visiting Berneron in Geneva
The 2024 Geneva Watch Days schedule was packed with meetings. Thankfully, we usually build in enough redundancy so that one person can attend the impromptu visit and the other person can attend the original session. This is exactly what happened when I met Fred Mandelbaum one day during Geneva Watch Days 2024. We started talking and he said he had an appointment with Sylvain later that afternoon. It had been at least a year since I’d seen him and I hadn’t seen him watch live yet, so I asked if I could join.
An hour later, Fred and I arrived at a nondescript apartment building by the lake and rang the buzzer. A few minutes later, Sylvain arrived and ushered us into the lobby. I was happy to see him, but I wasn’t prepared for what I saw next.
38mm Mirage for context
We followed the design and manufacturing process of the original 38mm Mirage watch on Instagram. It was interesting to watch it take shape (I’m not kidding). I like how the movement fits into the case design. It looked great in person, but there was a problem. Despite the watch being a good size, it was too long for my wrist.
Enter Mirage 34
Two 38mm Mirage models were on display in the apartment. We couldn’t handle them because they were heading to a GPHG ceremony where fingerprinting was prohibited. There were some static models, but two smaller, more colorful pieces caught my eye. These were non-running examples of the new Mirage 34.
The Mirage 34 uses a similar organic case shape that is reflected in most components. The domed acrylic crystal, display case back, and dial all reflect the gentle oval shape. Other elements such as the hands, sloping crown, pin buckle and sub-seconds dial also add non-linear detail to the design.
special stone dial
The Mirage 34 is available in two variants. The 18K white gold case features a lapis lazuli dial, while the 18K yellow gold is set with a tiger’s eye. During my visit, I noticed that both stones are deep in color and blend beautifully with the design of the case. It doesn’t feel kitschy or like some weird 70’s watch that will soon become obsolete again. The decision to use acrylic crystals was also important. This adds a layer of warmth that many stone dial watches don’t have. But there’s more to these dials than that.
Each dial is handmade, and I heard at the meeting that the failure rate is close to 85%. The dial is just over 1mm thick, and the manufacturer has used tiny engraving chips to create a crater-like shape on the sub-seconds dial. The dial is made of natural material, so there are unevenness and faults. Dials often shatter during this process, but remain durable beyond the production period. When you look at it with a magnifying glass, you can see slight spots on the surface and traces of handcrafting. I’m not usually into stone dials, but the blend of craftsmanship and rich colors makes this dial a great one.
case design
From a distance, the Berneron Mirage 34 has a polarizing design. With all the hype surrounding Cartier, I’ve heard detractors mention its similarities to the Clash. I think this is unfair, as it relegates an irregularly shaped watch to the homage category. As for the Clash comparison, I appreciate the watch, but it’s more of a red carpet statement piece than a wearable item. However, the Mirage has a distinct feature: despite its asymmetrical nature, it can be worn like a regular dress watch.
I was wearing a Calatrava 570 when I met Sylvain and his colleague Rafael. I picked up the Mirage 34, looked at it in profile, and immediately saw the signs of my watch. Classic barrel-end lugs provide a home for traditional leather straps. The rounded bezel also adds softness and helps the watch blend into your wrist. Even though I only tried the motionless non-runner, I had a hard time returning the Lapis version after the meeting. The 34mm x 38mm case is only 7mm thick and looks perfect.
New Cal.215
Unfortunately, during the meeting I could only see the new Cal.215 decals on the sample pieces. But if the 38mm Cal.233 is anything to go by, these new movements will surprise you. Berneron has teamed up with an unnamed Swiss supplier to develop an interesting 25,200 vph hand-wound movement. 72 hour power reserve, 23 jewels, mainplate and bridges made of 18K gold.
The movement is made to fit perfectly into the unconventionally shaped case. Best of all, the exquisite finishing is on display through the display case back, which is secured with four screws. Somehow, Berneron achieved a 30 meter water resistance rating on these watches.
quibble?
Do you have any concerns about the Berneron Mirage 34? I know, but they are minor. Design-wise, I wish the “SWISS” font on the dial had been cursive or something less modern. Does that mean you can’t own one of these? No, but the price of CHF 51,000 is steep (this is for the 2026 model and will increase to CHF 54,000 in 2027). They are also special because they were produced in extremely small quantities of 24 pieces each over a 10-year period (the first year, 2025, was sold out).
I am currently collecting watches, mainly simple dress style watches. I enjoy wearing watches that are light and uncomplicated. In my opinion, major luxury brands have largely forgotten how to create truly special dress watches with beautiful dials and cases. The case is too large and the dial lacks the handcrafted feel it had before. This is where watches like the Berneron Mirage 34 caught my attention. Both models look great in your hand, on your desk, and, importantly, on your wrist. I’d happily wear either, but if I had a choice, I’d go for lapis. what about you?
