What if a watch brand offered their iconic watch design in three different sizes? And what if all those sizes were well made, with the right proportions, and no weird artifacts or compromises made during the resizing design process? If you’ve been reading my writing, you know I find this extremely rare. Usually, there are certain sizes that a particular watch design finds comfort in. But that’s not the case with the IWC Pilot’s Watch. Right now, as I write this article, I have three watches in front of me, spaced 6mm apart, and there’s really a lot to be said for them. How do you choose the right watch for you? Let’s take a look.
I am only mentioning the size and proportions and how it affects the wearing experience. If you want to know the history of Flieger watches and compare the different calibers inside, there are plenty of articles and videos. This article is only intended to help you choose the right one for many years of enjoyment. I will not go into any specifications beyond the dimensions.
Before we begin, a word about watch sizes
I’ve been spending quite a bit of time on the topic of watch size lately. I’ve written about how I’ve abandoned my small watch purism in favor of a size-agnostic stance, and I’ll be digging deeper into the issue on this Thursday’s Fratello Talks podcast.
Still, before discussing these IWC models, I feel it is important to make a few points about size and dimensions. The power of both as tools in a watch designer’s toolbox is often underestimated. Size and proportions can be used for several purposes. The most often mentioned is legibility: “You need good legibility while flying, diving, etc., so it needs to be big.” Legibility is essential, but to suggest that it comes down to size is a gross oversimplification. Legibility can be achieved in many ways: contrast, color, negative space, minimalism, etc. And size can be used for many purposes other than legibility.
IWC has managed to provide excellent legibility in all three size options. The 46mm Big Pilot may be closest to the dimensions of its ancestor, but it’s not functionally superior as a modern pilot’s watch. Here, the sizes are used to very different effects. The size has dramatically changed the character of these three watches. Interestingly, the overall design remains solidly vertical in all three sizes. As I mentioned at the beginning, there are no strange artifacts or out-of-place proportions to be found. This is a point I want to highlight, as very few brands manage to pull this off well. So let’s look at the differences between the three.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX and the Full-Size Big Pilot
Let’s start with the two sizes that have been around the longest. First, there’s the 40mm Mark XX ref. IW328202. If that’s still too big, there’s also the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36mm, but we don’t have that available today. Second, there’s the full-sized 46mm Big Pilot’s Watch ref. IW501001. The Mark XX measures 40 x 49 x 10.8mm with 20mm lug spacing. The Big Pilot measures 46 x 56 x 15.6mm with 22mm lug spacing.
This is really like comparing apples to oranges. The Big Pilot has always been a monster watch, even during the big watch boom. Compared to my 45mm Panerai Radiomir, it is quite large, mainly because of the wider dial and the very long lugs. In comparison, the Mark XX looks like a small watch, but is clearly not a small watch in itself.
What’s most striking to me is that the Big Pilot is a very distinctive statement watch. The Mark XX is an everyday watch. In this sense, it doesn’t feel like the same base watch at all. I would classify the Mark XX as an aviator-themed GADA watch. The Big Pilot, on the other hand, is a retro fashion statement. To me, wearing it makes me feel like I’m cosplaying as a biplane pilot. No disrespect intended. Honestly, I don’t think anyone would choose between the two. They’re worlds apart.
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 and the Full-Size Big Pilot’s
Next comes the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 ref. IW329301. Seeing as there was a big gap between the Mark XX and the 46mm Big Pilot, it makes sense that IWC would try to fill that gap. So for 2021, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 sits squarely between its 40mm and 46mm siblings. I think IWC now has a pretty comprehensive collection of Pilot’s Watch models for those who aspire to this style.
And the 43mm version is a perfect middle ground. It has the historical feel of the big model but in a slightly more wearable size. The case measures 43 x 53 x 13.6mm and the strap is 21mm wide. Compared to the 46mm Big Pilot, the biggest difference is not the diameter, but the length and thickness from lug to lug. I don’t think I can wear the 46mm Big Pilot on my 17cm wrist. It’s a matter of preference, but it’s too thick and long from the front and doesn’t look neat from any angle. The 43mm version still looks like a very large watch, but it fits me comfortably.
Now we enter the realm of opinion. Rex, always nuanced, was quick to assert that only the 46mm Big Pilot was the real deal. In his eyes, the 43mm version was watered down. If you want a Big Pilot, buy a big watch. I completely disagree with him on this point. Aesthetically, there are no compromises with the Big Pilot’s Watch 43. I prefer a cleaner, time-only dial with lume on all the hour markers. In that sense, it’s also more historically accurate. And by any standard, it’s still a big watch. It’s just a bigger watch that’s more ergonomic.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX and Big Pilot’s Watch 43
So what if you find the larger watch a bit too much for you and are trying to choose between the Mark XX and the 43? Even without factoring in the caliber, there is still a lot to consider. Most notably, the Mark XX still feels like a modern, all-around watch. The Big Pilot 43 has that traditional vibe. This is due to its no-date configuration and, most importantly, its diamond-style crown.
Perhaps this supports my point. The Big Pilot 43 can fill a similar role in my collection as the Panerai Radiomir. It is more on the “gimmicky” side in that sense, but I don’t mean that as a pejorative here. It’s just that it has a much more distinctive, almost extreme, character. The Mark XX is positioned as an alternative to the Rolex Explorer. It’s more ordinary, maybe even “boring.” Again, this is not meant as a negative thing. I love boring watches. It’s interesting how these watches can be thematically different while still sharing DNA.
The Mark XX is a watch you can wear every day without a second thought – always looking good, always comfortable and functional. The Big Pilot 43 is a watch you can wear at the right time, when you’re dressed appropriately and feeling a little bolder.
Which IWC (Big) Pilot’s Watch is Right for You?
So let’s address the core question: how do you choose? My advice is to first consider whether you’re looking for a statement piece or an everyday watch. The Big Two Pilots are certainly quite statement and you wouldn’t want to wear them in a formal setting. The Mark XX, on the other hand, blends in better while still exuding vintage Flieger style.
The latter might be appealing to someone looking for their first (or only) great watch, but if you already own several watches, including one you wear every day, the more eye-catching Big Pilot might be a better choice.
Among the Big Pilot models, we feel that fit is key. For colleagues with larger wrists, the original Big Pilot is a better choice. However, for my 17cm wrist, the Big Pilot 43 is too big. But if you really want that oversized aesthetic, there is only one choice, regardless of wrist circumference.
So, which one should you order?
Well, this is a real question for me. I am not currently looking to buy an IWC pilot’s watch, but it has been on my wish list for years. I came to this article with an open mind, having only briefly worn the Mark XVIII in the past. My love affair with Panerai has led me to like all three sizes. I just wasn’t sure which one I would prefer.
As you all know, the 46mm Big Pilot is just not for me. I have been thinking for a long time whether to keep the Mark XX or the Big Pilot 43. This is a very difficult choice. The 43 will compete with the Radiomir, which I will wear occasionally, mainly in the winter. The Mark XX will compete with the Explorer II for the majority of the time it is on my wrist. I feel that I would like to wear it more.
However, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 really wins my heart. I love the diamond crown and the studded strap, as well as the beautiful display case back (though I promised not to mention those things here). It leans a little bit into the Big Pilot theme, which is my favorite. The price difference is big, 9,700 euros for the Mark XX and 14,200 euros for the 46mm Big Pilot. But I’ve fallen in love with the 43 over the past few days. So much so, in fact, that it’s now at the top of my wish list…
Which IWC (big) pilot’s watch would you choose? Let us know in the comments below.
