Borna Bosniak
That’s a contradiction in the title. If I can explain it correctly by the time you finish reading this article, it should make sense. Today’s topic is Czapek’s Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph, and more specifically its latest version, the Crossroads. The Faubourg de Cracovie is by no means a new model, having been introduced in 2018 as the third model following the brand’s rebirth, but it has featured some funky dials and special editions over the years. The Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroad is available in two versions, one regular edition and one limited edition, both featuring a unique new guilloché pattern on a unique precious alloy dial.
dial
So let’s start there. The visual of a criss-cross pattern provides the inspiration behind the model name. This is an evolution of the double soleil guilloché used in earlier versions of Faubourg de Cracovie. It has a non-traditional look and pairs well with the inclusion of a tachymeter scale (another Crossroads novelty), both of which give it a more sporty edge. There’s also plenty of contrast, especially on the deep blue model, with its panda layout and contrasting silver. The subdials have been reduced in size, and Čapek has also done away with the Arabic “12” at the top of the dial. Both are good ideas for keeping the dial clean.
Besides the guilloche pattern itself, the dial’s most appealing feature is its material. Developed for Czapek by Metalem (the same company that brought you the amazing Promenade dial), the Crossroads uses an alloy 401 dial that is 55% gold with platinum, palladium, and silver. The color shines best in the Secret Alloy colorway, which exposes the material rather than covering the dial in paint. The color contrast is not as strong here, so the finish shines more beautifully. I really like the transition from the lowest point of the dial, the subdials, to the end of the tachymeter scale. This is because the finish on the dial changes each time the altitude changes.
case
Despite this fairly traditional dial-making approach (albeit with some pretty funky guilloché patterns), the Faubourg de Cracovie is not a classically sized watch. With a diameter of 41.5mm, a height of 13.9mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 47mm, it’s well-balanced for people with average and larger wrists. In fact, Czapek’s website recommends it for people with a wrist circumference of 16.5cm or more, which I think is correct. With a 6.25 inch / 15.8 cm wrist, I’ve always thought it was a bit too arrogant for me personally, but perhaps my affinity for watches 5mm smaller in diameter is amplifying that.
The case construction follows this modernized idea, and you won’t find any harp or bullhorn lugs here. Instead, the steel surfaces are polished for highlights, and the pushers, which are nicely integrated with the sides of the case, are also vertically brushed. Despite the Crossroads’ sporty nature, water resistance remains at an acceptable 50 meters.
strap
Both of these models typically follow a blue/silver color scheme, and the strap selection also reflects that. Czapek offers blue alligator leather or blue Alcantara fabric straps, both with steel pin buckles and curved quick-release spring bars. You can’t go wrong with either choice, but my personal choice would probably be the alligator.
movement
Given Antarctique’s popularity over the past few years, you may be used to hearing the term “made in house” in connection with Czapek, but it’s different when it comes to Faubourg de Cracovie. The SXH3 caliber is based on the Vaucher VMF 6710, a movement refined by Parmigiani Fleurier’s third-party manufacturing arm for a small number of customers, including Richard Mille, and is used as the basis for TAG Heuer’s Monaco split seconds. This means it has a 5Hz beat rate, 65 hours of power reserve, column wheel and vertical clutch action, while also being COSC certified. The decoration is in line with Čapek’s expectations, eschewing the usual stripes and perlage in a very contemporary approach, opting instead for a uniform surface color accented only by light bevels.
judgment
The simple fact that Czapek is revamping the Faubourg de Cracovie must mean there was demand from their customer base, and the evolutionary changes made to Crossroads are a step in the right direction. The precious metals on the dial and the elegant shape of the case retain enough of the classic elegance that influenced many of Čapek’s early designs that it doesn’t feel like a major departure from the brand’s ethos. yeah. The move towards a sportier style works well, both in terms of the dial pattern and the overall direction of the model. Because, for me at least, the large case size has always been a little too strong for an ultra-classic and elegant chronograph. Over $40,000 is a lot of money for a steel watch with a movement modified from an off-the-shelf watch. So while this particular Czapek won’t win any big awards (look at Antarctique for that), it does deliver on the promise of a well-designed large sports watch from an independent brand. It stands out as expected.
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Prices and Availability
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Deep Blue and Secret Alloy are available now, the latter in a limited edition of 50 pieces. Price: 36,000 Swiss Francs (~41,500 USD)
Brand Czapek Model Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Case dimensions 41.5mm (D) x 13.9mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) Case material Stainless steel Water resistance 50 meters Crystal Sapphire front and back Dial Alloy 401 Dark blue or gray guilloche pattern Strap Blue alligator or Alcantara, steel pin buckle Movement SXH3, Vaucher VMF 6710 base, automatic, COSC certified, 5Hz Power reserve 65 hours Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph Availability Secret alloy Limited to 50 pieces Price 36,000 Swiss Franc