Borna Bosniak
Enamel is closely associated with the advent of portable timekeeping devices and was used on pocket watch dials at some point in the 17th century. The relative ease of processing metal blanks such as stamped copper has made them largely out of favor for large-scale production, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find them at a wide range of price points. The translucent luster and color, combined with other decorative methods such as guilloche, make it one of the most revered dial-making techniques. With that in mind, let’s explore the best watches with enamel dials at various price points. Keep in mind that for small purchases, you are unlikely to get a Genbrugge or Porsche dial.
Climb the Erebus
It’s true that affordable enamel dials don’t have the level of shine or depth of luxury watches, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t welcome. The Ascent was launched as Erebus’ take on the perfect entry-level watch, unexpectedly incorporating a black or white enamel dial. At less than $500, the enamel dial with a high-beat Miyota 9000 series movement that measures just 11mm in height further enhances the value proposition. Price: $449
Seiko Presage SPB449 Craftsmanship Series Porter Classic
If you’re talking about value-oriented enamel dials, look no further than Seiko. The brand is known for its special attention to Japanese craftsmanship in its dials, which has recently been encapsulated in its Presage Craftsmanship Series collection, which includes watches with enamel, lacquer and porcelain dials, among others. I am. The model I chose for this model is the recent collaboration between Seiko and Porter Classic. This model features a stunning black enamel dial with distinctive undulations that flow beneath the needle pinion. It’s even more fitting when you see that this piece is inspired by laurel. Price: $2,300
anOrdain Model 1 Plum Fume
Taking things to the next level is Scottish-based microbrand anOrdain. The brand has gained fame for its in-house fumé enamel dials and for its simple design, yet its incredible texture and depth. Since then, there have been case design improvements and movement upgrades (both of which have resulted in significant overall price increases across the brand’s offerings), but in my opinion, the original style remains the most effective. is. Price: US$4,012 (excluding VAT)
Lundis Blues Ref. 1120
Lundis Bleus is a brand often ignored by enthusiasts, but it’s also one that produces highly custom pieces that are worth paying attention to. Like anOrdain, dial production is the main focus here; everything else is outsourced. One of the entry-level models can be had for just over CHF 3,000, but we think the Lundis Bleus’ cloisonné dial really shines. Simply put, cloisonné is a process in which thin precious metal wires are precisely bent into shapes and then filled with enamel to create complex shapes. For about $10,000, you can order a custom dial that fits into a 39mm steel case with a Sellita SW300. Price: CHF 9,800 (~USD 11,400)
Credor Wisdom II
With what is clearly a fairly significant price increase, we are now playing in the big leagues among the enamel heavyweights, including Credor Eichi II. While every Eiichi is a fine example of Micro Artist Studio’s master craftsmanship, I much prefer the clean aesthetic of the second generation of this model, with its translucent dial omitting the numerals. You can choose between white or blue enamel (the latter being the best on our list, of course). Both are carefully hand-painted rather than pad-printed. The rest of the watch is deceptively simple, but it’s powered by a hand-wound Spring Drive caliber with nice decorations for when you get tired of looking at the dial. Price: £51,000 (~67,000 USD)
Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231G
When you think of enamel dials, what immediately comes to mind is Patek Philippe’s World Time, with its distinctive central medallion depicting parts of the world. Its latest version, rendered in cloisonné enamel, the ref. 5231G happens to be Australian-inspired – a happy coincidence. The gradation of browns, creams, and greens contrasts beautifully with the deep ocean blues, lending incredible depth to what appears to be a flat dial. The Caliber 240 HU with its micro-rotor and World Time complication is also something to behold. Price: $94,980
Kari Voutilainen 28E
If there’s one craftsman that definitely deserves a spot on this list, it’s Kari Voutilainen. I have no doubt that Voutilainen is capable of creating any kind of dial wonder, but this particular 28E combines guilloché and enamel in a technique known as Flinke. First, the dial is hand-engineered, then a layer of translucent blue enamel is painted over it and fired. This allows it to be colored in a unique way while showing off the intricate rose engine work. The Voutilainen 28E takes it up a notch because the dial blank is made of solid silver and gold, only the latter is enamelled. Price: 86,000 Swiss Francs (~100,000 USD)
Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poincon de Geneve Plique à Jour
I’ve saved what I believe is the best for last, but I may be biased considering this is my favorite type of enamel technique, plique à jour. The Louis Vuitton Voyager, which derives (part of) its name from it, is the closest thing to a miniaturized stained glass window that you can wear on your wrist. Think of this as an evolution of cloisonné. Instead of thin precious metal wires, an openwork lattice of white gold is used. However, in the case of Plique-A-Jour, there is no backing material, and the enamel part is suspended by white gold beams. .
But the most impressive thing is the subdial and the floating central barrel that passes the pinion. Before the enamel is fired, it must be positioned by hand while it is still liquid and is held in place only by a fragile translucent material. Price: 275,000 EUR (~300,000 USD)
