Borna Bosniaks
As the classification of formal attire continues to change, so too is the definition of a dress watch. Once upon a time, it was dominated by what traditionalists would approve of: very slim watches on leather straps and pocket watches. Thankfully, the term “dress watch” has loosened, and Panerai, Richard Mille, and Greubel Forsey no longer fit under dress cuffs. Sorry, Hodge! While I don’t entirely subscribe to the formula of a two-hand watch in precious metals, I do agree that dress watches should be minimalist, slim, and smaller than average. This theme will become clearer as we read on about our picks for the best dress watches.
Vario Versa
The Vario Versa is by no means a traditional dress watch, but it does combine the distinctive features of other very popular dress watches at a very affordable price. It combines two 1.9mm thick Ronda movements in a case that can be worn with one of two dials by flipping the carriage in the center of the case. With no second hand, there’s no annoying ticking to worry about, and the dial has a clean rectangular shape that’s perfect for dressy occasions. Price: $428 USD
Baltic MR01
Let’s start with the budget range. Baltic’s micro-rotor MR01 was modeled after some of the best dress watches of all time. If you’re a fan of the Calatrava 96 (spoiler alert) like me, you’ll find a lot to love about the Baltic MR01, including the Breguet numerals, leaf hands, and stepped case design. At 36mm in diameter and just under 10mm including the 2mm high domed crystal, the MR01 is slim thanks to the Hangzhou CAL5000. It’s a far cry from the luxury watches that come with the Calatrava back, but at nearly 50 times cheaper, I’m not going to complain. My favorite is the on-trend salmon dial, but both the grained silver and deep blue dials look equally good in dressy situations. Even better, you can find all the models in the Time+Tide shop. Price: 545 Euros (approx. $610 USD)
Hamilton American Classic Bolton Quartz
We trace the MR01’s ’40s inspiration all the way back to the late ’30s, which influenced the Hamilton Bolton. Clearly designed with late Art Deco in mind, the first Bolton actually appeared in 1941, and was revived in the 1980s, appearing here as a quartz number measuring 27mm x 32mm. Some may gawk at the fact that it’s battery-operated, but it means you don’t have to set the time unless the battery dies. That’s even more convenient considering it may not be an everyday choice for many. The watch is also a movie star, appearing on Harrison Ford’s wrist in the latest Indiana Jones film. Price: US$745, available from the T+T Shop
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
Next up is one of those rare watches worthy of an iconic name. While any model of the Cartier Tank has just about every feature you’d want in a luxury dress watch, I’d choose the Tank Louis Cartier for its simple, minimalist dial and gold case and accents. The funny thing about Cartier’s most famous Tank is that you don’t have to pay five figures for the yellow gold version. The steel and black dial Tank Mast is even stealthier and more affordable. The 6.6mm thin case is 25.5mm wide and 33.7mm lug-to-lug, just about the ideal size for a timeless dress watch. Price: $13,000 USD
Breguet Classic 5157 Extra Plat
Though never overtly designed, Breguet’s Classique 5157 is a perfect example of how a simple watch can be exquisitely finished without being flashy. The silvery dial blank, surrounded by a brushed ring bearing the brand’s secret signature, is hand-engraved with an intricate guilloched pattern, with the only highlight being the blue glow of the Breguet hands, made of heat-blued steel. At 38mm, it’s the perfect size for a modern dress watch, but it also wears very flat, thanks to a 5.45mm-high case and welded lugs with almost no curves. This impressive thinness is thanks to the full-rotor automatic caliber 502.3, which, despite its construction, is an astonishing 2.4mm thin. Naturally, the movement is also very finely decorated, but none of this is particularly cheap. Price: USD 20,750
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Second
The story of the Reverso is probably well known to you. From sports watch to the epitome of a dress watch, the watch has made numerous red carpet appearances and appeared on Mad Men over the years, but I’ve always felt that many of the current models are too thick and are best suited to smart casual occasions. However, as Luke Benedictus noticed when he checked out the Reverso Tributo Small Seconds, this issue has been fixed. This model has a completely different feel on the wrist, thanks to the new lug shape and a thickness of just 7.56mm. While all the colorways are pretty dressy, the pink gold and black are my favorites, especially when paired with the two Fagliano straps for maximum versatility. Price: USD 22,700
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G
No list of dress watches would be complete without a Patek Philippe Calatrava. The best current example is the 6119 Clous de Paris variation, recently featured in Versus. The dial is a perfection of proportion, enhanced by very sharp dauphine hands and arrow indices. The hobnail bezel surround adds a touch of bling, but it never goes beyond the bounds of a “dressy everyday” watch. As beautiful as the dial is, the manual-wound cal. 30-255 PS has fine angles on the bridges and wheel spokes, and contrasting Geneva stripes interrupted only by polished screws and stone countersinks. At 39mm, it’s a bit too large for my personal taste, but I can easily imagine it as an ideal dress watch for those with average or larger wrists. However, it’s not the most basic Calatrava currently available, and that’s reflected in the retail price. Price: $32,110 USD
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques Américaine 1921 seems to tick all the boxes for the most traditional dress watch and the best driving watch. It’s time-only, its small precious metal case is slim at 7.41mm, and it’s hand-wound. But its design is unexpected, to say the least. Released exclusively for the American market in the Roaring Twenties, the Historiques Américaine was meant to be fitted to the hands gripping the oversized wooden steering wheels of the Model J Duecis and Bentley 3 Litre, but then the Great Depression hit. This 36.5mm modern version faithfully reproduces the original’s beveled dial, and is sure to draw at least a few puzzled looks from under buttoned-up shirt sleeves. At 30% more than the precious metal Vacheron Traditionnelle with the same movement, it’s hard not to love the design. Price: USD 33,400
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum Grey
Stealth wealth has been all the rage in the luxury trend space for the past few years, but few have done it better than Parmigiani Fleurier. In fact, it’s one of the brand’s core pillars – Guido Terreni calls it “private luxury.” The new Toric Petite Seconde epitomizes the idea. On the surface, it’s a white metal watch with a grey dial. There’s not a trace of gold or a speck of diamond to be found. But look closer and you’ll see that the case is actually 950 platinum, with a specially hand-finished dial that’s finished to perfection. Plus, the PF780 movement that powers this watch is made of solid gold, making it extremely rare in watchmaking. Price: CHF 52,000 (approx. USD 62,000)
T+T Timeless Choices: The Secret is Vintage
Is this some kind of cheat? Yes it is, but there’s a good reason for it. So hear me out. There are plenty of modern watches at various price points, but in my (somewhat) humble opinion, nothing beats the true value proposition and understated charm of a vintage watch. How about a white gold Audemars Piguet in excellent condition with a Spielman case, hobnail guilloche dial, and automatic AP 2120 movement? For under $7,000!
If Patek Philippe is your thing, then we recommend the Calatrava 96, which inspired both the Baltic and the 6119 on this list. Its most iconic shape is arguably one of the best vintage watches. Sure, it’s significantly more expensive than the AP that preceded it, but few watches have a similar history.
You might be thinking that previous models cost thousands of dollars, so that doesn’t really qualify as value-oriented. So instead of spending thousands, how about a few hundred? The world of vintage Seiko comes to the rescue again, this time with the 3mm thick, carbide cased Credor Tank, ref. 6730-5090, one of my most worn watches in 2022. There’s a big difference between this watch, which I picked up for just over AUD$300, and the holy trinity of vintage watches, which are chock full of excellent options, including the Omega Constellation, Universal Geneve Silver Shadow, and Girard-Perregaux Gyromatic, not to mention the overwhelming number of Seiko, King Seiko, and Grand Seiko variations.
