Zach Brass
Collectors are often looking for a mid-sized watch that is just right, not too hot and not too cold. The best diameter for the average wrist is between 35mm and 40mm in diameter (but keep in mind that lug-to-lug is the most important measurement of fit). As a watch collector with smaller to average wrists myself, I usually look for watches in this range. Below are what I consider to be the seven best mid-sized watches, ranging in price from $325 to $12,000. However, in the future, I will update this buying guide to include more options and watches in an even wider price range.
Seiko SRPK33
What a surprise! Who better to offer an entry-level mechanical watch option than Seiko? The Seiko SRPK33 hits the sweet spot with dimensions of 38mm diameter, 12.1mm thickness, and 44.2mm lug-to-lug wrist length. Fans rejoiced when Seiko’s 5 Sports lineup updated this fan-favorite model with a new, more compact model that shrunk from the original 42.5mm diameter. Even better, the SRPK33 was introduced with a Tiffany-esque turquoise dial in a range of color options at a time when the color trend was just starting. For just a few hundred dollars, this 100-meter water-resistant watch is powered by an in-house automatic movement with both day and date complications. Price: $325 USD
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm
If you saw our recent Time+Tide Tribe video showcasing the best watches under $2,000, then it’s no surprise to you that the 38mm version of the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph appears on this list. With its Interstellar origins, 80-hour automatic movement, 38mm diameter, 11.1mm thickness, and 44.7mm lug-to-lug size that definitely fits the average wrist, and 100m water resistance, this watch is a clear winner with its indisputable black dial and collector-friendly faux-Tina accents. Price: $895, available at the Time+Tide Shop
Furlan Mari Disco Volante
Speaking of vintage-inspired, Furlan Marri has long fascinated the watch community with its attention to vintage details and modern take on designs from the past at a very low price. In a market where consumers are becoming more interested in less common shapes, the revival of the Disco Volante style has been cleverly placed in a 38mm watch, which is larger than most vintage Disco Volante watches. However, being a lugless watch (or with hidden lugs), the lug-to-lug length is the same as the diameter. This keeps it vintage-looking without being too small for modern tastes. My personal favorite is the salmon dial model, but with a hand-finished movement, you’ll also see the see-through caseback often. Despite the excellent movement finishing, it’s priced at under $3,000. Price: $2,780 (excl. tax), available for preorder at the Time+Tide Shop
TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36
Entering the $3,000+ entry luxury segment, TAG Heuer has caught the attention of mid-size watch enthusiasts with its updated Carrera Date 36 lineup, especially the pink-dial model that arrived just in time for brand ambassador Ryan Gosling’s Barbie performance. The automatic Caliber 7 is based on a mass-produced movement, but it’s been refined to extend the power reserve by 56 hours. So, with a pleasing 36mm case size (10mm thick and 41.6mm lug-to-lug), an eye-catching selection of dial colors, and the prestige of the TAG Heuer name, I think the Carrera Date 36 is the perfect mid-size watch for everyday wear. Price: $3,200
Tudor Black Bay 54
In my opinion, the Tudor Black Bay 54 was one of the strongest releases of 2023. With many watch buyers eager to get their hands on a vintage diver watch from the late 50s and 60s, Tudor’s BB54 fulfills that desire better than any other brand. If Rolex doesn’t go back to the original 37.5mm diameter of the Submariner, leave it to the more adventurous Tudor. The 37mm Black Bay 54 is clearly superior to the steel 39mm BB58 model in that it uses the exact same specifications as its larger sibling and a T-Fit micro-adjust clasp (similar to Rolex Glidelock). It’s an obvious choice for this list and needs no further justification. Price: $3,700 USD (rubber), $3,900 USD (bracelet)
Grand Seiko SBGY007 “God’s Crossing”
The closest thing to a steel dress watch version of the SBGA211 “Snowflake,” the SBGY007 “Omiwatari” put the spotlight on the performance and elegance segment of Grand Seiko’s dress watches. Equipped with a manual winding Spring Drive caliber, this watch is unlikely to find a more accurate spring-powered dress watch on the market (unless it’s another Grand Seiko Spring Drive). The highly curvaceous case front is harder to Zaratsu polish without distortion than many of Grand Seiko’s faceted shapes, and it has great proportions (38.5mm (D) x 10.2mm (T) x 43.7mm (LTL)). If you want a mid-sized watch that’s classy yet casual, it’s hard to beat the SBGY007. Price: $8,300 USD
OMEGA Specialties Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition
Omega’s pick for the best mid-size watches list is the 38mm Seamaster Aqua Terra variety. If you want a mid-size Omega under $10,000, you can learn more about the colorful shade variations here. Or, for those who prefer to play it safe, the recent black lacquer dial model is also appealing. But if you’re adventurous enough to choose an unexpected star from Omega, the recent Specialties Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a great choice for a mid-size watch. With a diameter of 39mm, a thickness of 11.7mm, and 46.2mm lug-to-lug, it’s on the larger side for a mid-size watch. But in this day and age, many will find these dimensions quite acceptable.
In the age of the Speedmaster and Seamaster, many are unfamiliar with Omega’s dress watch excellence, but this Paris 2024 edition is a great example. The bronze-gold case has a touch of precious metal, but the price is pretty affordable, especially when you consider that the hobnailed dial is forged from pure silver. And inside is the in-house Co-Axial caliber 8926, which is METAS Master Chronometer certified and has a 72-hour power reserve. It’s beautiful and powerful. Your Honor, that’s the end of my argument. Price: USD 12,000
