Russell Sheldrake
At Time+Tide, we cover watchmaking in all its forms, but one that is often considered the pinnacle of the profession is the perpetual calendar. Used only in the industry’s most exclusive timepieces, these complex calendars take years to perfect and have a long history dating back to the 1700s. Many of these watches may be outside your budget, but that doesn’t mean you can’t look at them with admiration and understand what makes them so special. Many of the QP (or “quantième perpétuel”) watches on this list come from some of the oldest brands still in business, but there are also a few modern interpretations that show there’s still innovation left in this ancient corner of the watch world.
The history of the perpetual calendar
We could write a long article about the history of the perpetual calendar, and we do. For more details, we highly recommend reading Borna’s excellent work, but here’s the abridged version… The perpetual calendar was introduced in 1762 by the English horologist Thomas Mudge. It took another 163 years for it to make it onto the wrist, thanks to Patek Philippe’s reference 97975. From there, it was a slow progression due to the complexity of the mechanism, but over the decades Patek proved to be masters of the perpetual calendar, producing chronographs and ultra-thin versions and making this complication a cornerstone of the brand.
It would take decades for this complication to really evolve or change, according to two of the big names in the development of the modern perpetual calendar, Kurt Klaus and Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, one of whom we’ll talk more about later. Today, this achievement in advanced horology is standard in many brands’ top-of-the-line timepieces, with the ability to keep the date accurate up until the year 2100, taking leap years into account. All that’s left is to discover some of the most fascinating watches you’ll see on the market today.
Ox & Junior Perpetual Calendar
Above, we mentioned Dr. Ludwig Ochslin. After working on improving the perpetual calendar system used by Ulysse Nardin, he founded his own brand called Ochs und Junior. The brand stands out for its minimalist interpretations of classic time indications, and their interpretation of the perpetual calendar is no exception. Gone is the classic sub-dial layout, instead there is a series of moving dots and dials with single lines indicating the date, month, leap year, and power reserve, not a single number or letter in sight. A small feature of this watch, which is easily overlooked, is the control dot between the 1 and 2, which indicates whether it is safe to adjust the date on the watch. It is a very intuitive solution to a problem that has plagued simple time and date watches for years. This watch is the lowest priced on this list, but like all Ochs und Junior watches, it offers a surprising level of customization. Price: From CHF 21,743 (approx. US$25,300)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar
Perpetual calendars are relatively large, and with everything happening inside the movement, making a compact, slim watch is a real challenge. However, watchmaker’s watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre has managed to elegantly incorporate the Caliber 868 movement into their Master Ultra Thin case line. The traditional 39mm case is the perfect size for most wrists, and with a case thickness of 9.2mm, this is one of the more understated yet powerful complications. Currently available in stainless steel, rose gold, and rose gold with diamond bezel, this is a staple in the JLC catalogue and we hope it will remain so for a long time to come. Price: USD 28,500 in stainless steel
If I were to write about JLC ​​perpetuals, I would love to feature the new Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. It was announced at this year’s Watches and Wonders and to me it was the standout watch in the brand’s lineup this year. However, it has a lot more to offer than just a perpetual calendar, so I’ll focus on the Ultra Thin here, as the Duomètre will likely feature in other buying guides we publish this year.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar
In 2021, Guido Terreni took over as CEO of Parmigiani, and since then, the brand has been heaping praise on the brand. The simpler version of the Tonda PF line has garnered a lot of attention for its clean design and modern aesthetic, but the cultural calendar is just as worthy of praise. Here, the Hijri perpetual calendar tracks the tabular Islamic calendar, which consists of a 30-year cycle, with each year made up of 12 months of 29 or 30 days. Within the 30-year cycle, there are 19 average years with 354 days and 11 average years with 355 days. This requires bespoke gears to convert the standard perpetual calendar system to accommodate these timings, but as was done with the Xia Li calendar, this exemplifies Parmigiani’s intention to explore cultures that are not always represented in the field of watchmaking. Price: CHF 62,500 (approx. USD 72,800)
MB&F LM Perpetual EVO Titanium
MB&F has become synonymous with creativity in fine watchmaking, whether it’s reinventing the chronograph or creating a fully rotating timepiece inspired by futuristic architecture. The LM Perpetual EVO demonstrates MB&F’s capabilities in tackling this classic complication. Equipped with a movement conceived by Stephen McDonnell, one of the world’s leading movement designers, this highly sophisticated perpetual calendar exemplifies the excellence that can be produced from the independent space today. Price: CHF 182,000 (approx. USD 212,000)
IWC Eternal Calendar
Perhaps one of the most talked about releases at Watches & Wonders this year, IWC’s Eternal Calendar has captured the imagination of us all. I always thought tracking leap years until 2100 was an incredible feat of micro-engineering, but the fact that it can stay accurate until 3999 is astounding. Plus, the moon phase can stay accurate for 45 million years. You’d need Professor Brian Cox to make sense of something like this, but for someone who hasn’t studied science since school, it feels pretty magical to me. Price: USD 155,000
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
The Traditionnelle Twin Beat was released in 2019, but it remains in my mind as one of the most amazing examples of originality in modern watchmaking. With its smoked crystal, unique layout, and ability to switch between high and low frequencies, this watch is similar to the JLC Duomètre, which I gave an honorable mention to earlier, where the perpetual calendar plays almost a supporting role. Winner of the Innovation Award at the 2019 GPHG, it is clear that this watch stands out from all other perpetual calendars, and it is remarkable to me that this is the product of a holy trinity brand that is supposed to be rooted in tradition; instead, it is leading the way with a release like this. And I am not the only one waiting with bated breath to see what comes out next. Price: USD 199,000
Time+Tide Timeless Pick: Patek Philippe ref. 3940
Is the 3940 the most classic example of a Patek perpetual calendar? No. Is it the most technologically advanced? No. Has it influenced the way I view and judge all perpetual calendars since I first encountered it? Absolutely. This serially produced ultra-thin perpetual calendar belongs to the era known as the Neo-Vintage, and while it has some modern necessities like sapphire crystal and ample shock resistance, it still retains the charm and design codes of the vintage.
If you want to appreciate the fine finish of the micro-rotor cal. 240 Q, I recommend looking for a later series with a see-through caseback, but I much prefer the earlier series models. The balance of the dial is much better to my eye, and the sharp cuts of the recessed subdials look much better than the gentle slope that later versions adopted. I could write about this watch all day long. In fact, I did so while I was working at A Collected Man. If you want to know more, be sure to check out my guide. Simply put, this is the watch that got me hooked on perpetual calendars, and I hope to get others to do the same.
