Borna Bosniak
If you’re like me, part of the fun of a watch is having time to wind it and adjust it. Bonus points if you get all the second hands perfectly synchronized as well, but maybe that’s just me. While there is no doubt that automatic movements are more appropriate for those with a collection of watches, there is an inherent charm that makes these ancient technologies even more appealing that we still use today. There’s more. I also often hear that hand-wound watches are a purist’s choice. I hardly agree with that opinion, but I stand by the fact that nothing beats an elaborately decorated movement that is unencumbered by the rotor (unless we’re talking micro-rotors of course) . Here are some of the best hand-wound watches available today.
hamilton khaki field mechanical
There’s no better place to start our list of the best hand-wound watches than with the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. If you ask any watch geek which entry-level watch they should look at, it’s probably going to be this. Whether it’s the 1960s aesthetic, the mid-sized case, the affordable price, or all three, it’s hard to find anything to complain about with this cult classic. As for the movement, it’s powered by the Hamilton H-50 movement, which is essentially a rotorless version of Swatch Group’s powerful Powermatic 80 lineup, with an 80-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate for weekend use. Masu. Price: Starting at USD 595, available from T+T Shop
Farlan Mari Disco Volante
Early Disco Volante models appeared in the 1930s, but the Space Age aesthetic really became noticeable in the 1960s. Stylistically, Furlan Mari’s Disco Volante fits in with any of the aforementioned decades, while giving it a slightly retro-futuristic feel with its green luminescent dial pattern. The 38mm x 38mm case wears like a smooth pebble, but the real fun here is actually the movement.
Furlan Marri chose the classic Peseux 7001 not only for its slimness, but also for its ability to transform into something beautiful. The redesigned, hand-chamfered bridge is a rarity in the Disco Volante’s price range, and the sunray-finished wheels are also a plus. Price: US$2,780, available from T+T shop
omega speedmaster professional
Convenience is often a key factor in today’s society, which is why many of the most popular watches are automatic. There is one obvious outlier that cannot be omitted – the Omega Speedmaster Professional. Popular among collectors, enthusiasts, and the general public alike, the Speedmaster is a hand-wound watch that still captivates the imagination today.
Caliber 3861 is METAS certified, features a Daniels Co-Axial escapement, and boasts a 50-hour power reserve, but it’s not as sensitive as some might think. As you probably know, the Speedmaster passed the rigorous tests that NASA put it through to bring it to the moon, so we’re confident it can handle your daily trips to the water cooler. The Speedmaster is here to stay and will continue to be people’s favorite manual watch. Price: From USD 6,600
Grand Seiko SLGW003
Lately, Grand Seiko has been gaining acclaim for its range of nature-inspired dials. But in the past, Japanese powerhouses relied on chronometer-grade high-beat movements as their main claim to fame. But for a long time, the brand didn’t have a 5Hz hand-wound movement, but that all changed with the introduction of the new Evolution 9 SLGW003 at Watches and Wonders 2024. Surprisingly, this doesn’t have a nickname yet – Manual Birch, anyone? It doesn’t roll off your tongue, does it? Whatever GS fans call it, it’s hard to miss the brilliant hard titanium case and birch vertical dial pattern, but once you’ve seen it, you’re greeted with something just as great.
The new caliber 9SA4 completely fills the display caseback and is well decorated for the price. A razor-thin bevel surrounds the wide plate, and all screws and jewels are set in polished countersinks, contrasting with the finely striped background. The specs shouldn’t be taken lightly either, as the 9SA4 runs at the aforementioned 5Hz, has a power reserve of 80 hours, and an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. Price: $10,700
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
When people think of JLC, they think of Reverso. Originally designed with polo players in mind, the front dial flips over to reveal an ornately decorated but protective backside. Things have changed, and now the Reverso is no longer considered a sports watch, but a popular choice for dressy occasions. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph is actually two watches in one, featuring a simple two-handed blue sunburst dial on the front, and a skeleton chronograph on the rear dial. .
This watch is powered by the in-house caliber 860, a complex hand-wound retrograde chronograph compressed into a tiny package measuring just 5.44 mm thick, which is impressive considering its many features. Overall, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is beautifully finished with a classic rectangular stainless steel construction, with interchangeable straps and two very different dial configurations, making it one of the most versatile watches on the market. There is one. Price: $25,000
FP Journe Chronometer Blue
It may not seem like it on the surface, but the FP Journe Chronomètre Bleu is one of the most unique watches in the lineup. First, the 39mm case is made of tantalum. Tantalum is a metal typically reserved for special situations such as complex medical implants or modern aircraft engines. It is not used very often in watchmaking because it is incredibly wear-resistant. The Chronometer Blue takes advantage of the mirror-like dial, which is notoriously difficult to manufacture, with subtle blue tones in the case material.
The hand-wound 1304 movement and its hand-finished bridges are all made of 18K rose gold, with an overall thickness of 4 mm, and a parallel barrel setup that provides a 56-hour power reserve of consistent torque. Oddly enough, the lack of a hacking seconds is probably the only similarity this watch has to the Seiko SKX, but given the overall exceptional level of finish, no one will complain about that. Dew. Price: $37,400
Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955
While it’s true that hand-wound chronographs are one of the “it” styles of luxury watches, the aforementioned Reverso chronograph doesn’t quite capture the old-school cool aesthetic with its inverted case. Vacheron Constantin’s Cornes de Vache, on the other hand, is exactly that. Its name suggests the year of its inspiration, and apart from its 38.5 mm case diameter, it could almost be mistaken for the reference 6087 that inspired it.
While the original model from 1955 was powered by the Valjoux 23-based Caliber 492, the modern Cornes de Vache is based on another legendary movement, the Lemania 2310. However, rather than simply changing the base caliber, Vacheron Constantin produced the renamed 1142 movement in 1955. -House, 21,600vph beat rate, 48 hour power reserve, column wheel and lateral clutch. Price: from USD 47,600 (steel)
A Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down
Lange Family headliner Up/Down was released in 2012 and was a particular surprise. Glashütte’s stunning flyback chronograph is now available in white gold with a diameter of 41 mm. The traditional Lange Big Date sits proudly at the top of the dial, a complication that requires an additional 60 parts to achieve this distinctive style.
This is all part of the incredible hand-wound movement L951.6 that you can see when you flip the watch over. It’s an orchestra of some of the most finely finished levers and rockers you’ll find on a wristwatch, all rising in a crescendo when the chronograph pusher is pressed. If you need further evidence of its pedigree, a man named Philippe Dufour is particularly fond of this watch, owning a rose gold watch and calling it “the best chronograph movement of all time.” . Price: $131,000
Romain Gauthier Logical One
Despite his flawless hand-finishing and penchant for reviving ancient complications, Romain Gauthier remains considerably undervalued among a wide range of collectors. The Logical One is perhaps the watch that best demonstrates his abilities, providing constant torque through the fusee and chain. Whether it’s the small parts that make up the chain, the fine fan-brushed finish on the steel components, or the brushed, rounded angles of the bridge, even a high-powered loupe can’t betray the Logical One’s embellishments.
Furthermore, Romain Gauthier Manufacturing takes pride in producing a vast number of parts in-house, including highly sophisticated parts such as balance springs and balance wheels. Well, the Logical One isn’t wound like the other watches on this list, and the crown at 2 o’clock is only used to set the time. Instead, pressing the pusher at the 9 o’clock position wraps the chain around the snail cam. This is hand-rolled. Price: 148,000 Swiss Francs (~175,000 USD)
Patek Philippe 5204G
We don’t just call these grand complications; The 5204G is the most complicated watch in this lineup in terms of number of complications, and it comes with a lot of features. First, it’s a split-seconds chronograph with day and date, moon phase, and perpetual calendar with day/night display. The 40mm case is generously proportioned, made of white gold, and is a relatively thick watch at 14.3mm thick. But considering what it is and the punch it packs, it deserves a pass. The olive green sunburst dial is effortlessly on-trend, providing a wealth of information while remaining relatively uncluttered and balanced.
All of this, while admittedly not automatically winding, hides a movement as beautiful as the hand-finished (and long-winded name) CH 29-535 PS Q with its large rotor, of course. Not that there are. Using the 5204G is an event, and winding it is a task that should not be too difficult. Price: $336,890
