Let’s start this review with a confession. I hate this time of year in the Netherlands. With days of gray skies, endless wet roads, howling winds, and brutal temperatures, it’s not always the most pleasant place to be. It’s not that these situations can’t be dealt with individually, but when they all come together it becomes quite depressing. When cold temperatures and bright blue skies combine, the world looks essentially different. However, one watch that is perfectly capable of handling these dire situations is the Micro Mil-Spec Milgraf. This watch has made me smile many times during these dark December days. Let me explain why.
When Micromilspec announced Milgraf in late August, there was quite a bit of buzz surrounding the release. The Norwegian brand is known for creating custom watches for military units and first responders. It is gradually becoming popular among the general public, and now civilians can also get their hands on some models. However, this brand always focuses on supplying watches to professional customers first. This is an approach I love because it means that developing a watch that performs well even in the most difficult conditions is always a priority. Being able to benefit from it as a member of the public is a great opportunity to own a special watch.
The story of Micro Mil Spec Milgraph
Despite a flurry of releases around Geneva Watch Day, Milgraf never properly captured my attention. I was aware of it, but only glanced at it. However, its appearance piqued my interest. I love a good tool watch that’s made with the needs of professionals in mind. That’s how Milgaff was born. The great thing is that Fratello’s colleague, Dave Sergeant, helped Micromilspec bring the concept to life by helping design the dial and suggesting the Destro configuration. The result is a watch that oozes competence. It only took a week of wearing it to confirm that to me.
Like you, when I first saw this watch, it reminded me of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Everest Limited Edition. Honestly, that’s a good thing! I love these two watches so I welcomed the reminder. But soon after that, I started evaluating Milgraf itself. They may look similar at first glance, but when you look at a variety of micro mil-spec watches, you’ll notice the distinct design features that define the brand. I love this distinctive Scandinavian design style. After all, this is the perfect style for practicality in the field.
Micro Mil Spec Mil Graph Specifications
The Milgaff was originally developed for special operations forces and combines a chronograph with a GMT complication. On top of that, the Destro configuration adds a twist to the watch that may be surprising at first. But the simple fact that the crown and pushers don’t dig into the wrist is very welcome for professionals on duty. Now let’s talk about the specs. The Milgraph features a microblasted grade 5 titanium case measuring 42 mm in diameter, 15 mm thick, and 50.3 mm lug-to-lug. It is also 100 meters waterproof. The micro-blasted finish was chosen to eliminate reflections, which is extremely important during military missions. Plus, it looks really cool.
The case has a distinctive bezel with an elapsed time scale. Four deep recesses make the design instantly noticeable. This quad grip, as the brand calls it, adds practicality and great visual drama when turning the bezel. As you can see from the photo, the 60-minute scale continues below the bezel, so it does not interfere with the functionality of the watch. The quad grip is not necessary for normal civilians as the very prominent knurled edges make rotating the bezel very easy. The grip is great, and turning the bezel is a lot of fun. The sound and feel are crisp and confident, exactly what you’d expect from a rugged military watch.
Milgraph busy dial
Inside the case is a matte black dial filled with information. But despite the three subdials, GMT function, and branding, it’s easy to operate. The base is a 60 minute scale with time markers applied. Rehab comes with a 24-hour GMT scale. The three subdials vary in size, creating a visual hierarchy. The smallest one is the running seconds at 3 o’clock.
The two chronograph registers are larger because they are more important in time-sensitive missions. The largest is the 30-minute counter at 6 o’clock, and finally the 12-hour counter at 12 o’clock. Three registers of different sizes usually trigger my desire for symmetry, but once again the practicality that prompted this decision provides the context and reasoning.
Modern dial design with all functions
The brand is located at 9 o’clock. I don’t usually like lopsided branding, but in this case it fits perfectly with the dial layout. I like the small logo above the practical text information and the curved brackets that bring everything together. This is a deceptively simple genius trick, as it prevents elements from floating in undefined space.
Overall, the dial configuration may not be the most logical in terms of design and symmetry. But once you understand the context, all the pieces fall into place and remind you that you’re more than just wearing an ordinary watch. One thing you might wonder about is the lack of numbers on the subdials. However, once you know the purpose of each individual subdial, reading it quickly is perfectly fine.
set of complementary hands
The handset is also a stylish element that is firmly rooted in functionality. Half of the wide hour and minute hands are skeletonized, while the other half is luxuriously coated with Super-LumiNova X1. The slim seconds hand features an orange tip, while the black GMT hand features an orange arrow tip.
Finally, the subdial hands match the shape of the central hour and minute hands nicely and are also luminous, making them easy to read at night. The most impressive thing about this watch is how well all the elements fit together. Together, these create a GMT chronograph that is balanced and decidedly modern despite its seemingly unconventional layout.
The Micro Milspec uses a La Joux Perret L121 to power the watch. This self-winding column-wheel chronograph caliber with Kohler GMT function operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, has 26 jewels and has a 60-hour power reserve. It is the perfect powertrain for your watch as it has great military watch features.
Micro Milspec offers the Milgraph on textured rubber or leather straps with microblasted titanium tang buckles. The third option is a microblasted titanium H-link bracelet with a push-button butterfly clasp. We received the watch on a rubber strap, which I would have chosen anyway. This was confirmed after wearing the watch for a week.
Wearing Micro Milspec Milgraf
After a long explanation of the design and various elements, let’s briefly discuss wearing Milgraf. It wears like a dream, especially considering its considerable size. The titanium case makes the watch light and ergonomically perfect for my 18.5cm wrist. From the moment I put the Milgraph on my wrist, I was very impressed. The tonneau-shaped case with short, angular lugs is not exactly small at 42 mm wide and 15 mm thick, but it works well. Thanks to the lugs, the rubber strap is connected to the case at a downward angle, making it naturally easier to wrap around your wrist.
The thing I had to get used to the most was the Destro configuration. Specifically, it took me a while to get used to loosening the crown with my left hand. A simple solution is to turn the clock over. This will make it easier to get used to it. However, if you do it a few times, you’ll get used to operating with your left hand, so it’s a good idea to practice early. Pulling the crown out to the first click allows you to adjust the GMT hand independently, and pulling it out to the second click allows you to adjust the main time. I found that with a little practice it gets pretty easy.
GMT chronograph perfect for everyday use
Operating a chronograph may seem difficult at first, as its functions are upside down. Start and stop the chronograph by pressing the lower of the two pushers. But the great thing is that when operating a chronograph with your right hand, it’s right where your thumb is, so you get used to it quickly. It may require some neurolinguistic reprogramming, but you’ll soon find it gets easier.
When worn on the wrist, the beautifully shaped case also catches the eye. Although it has a modern, angular design, the rounded edges and matte micro-blasted finish keep the watch from looking too technical or cold, giving it a gentle presence. Add to this the incredible comfort and you can see why I hardly ever took the watch off my wrist during the week I spent with it.
Final thoughts on Micro Mil Spec Mil Graph
During these long, boring days in the Netherlands, the Micro Milspec Milgraf provided the fun I needed to make me smile. I went into this review with no particular expectations. I already liked the design, but this watch surprised me in every way. Most importantly, I was completely impressed with how comfortable the watch was to wear. It fits my 18.5cm wrist perfectly and is easy to wear thanks to the lightweight grade 5 titanium case. Admittedly, this watch may not be suitable for people with thin wrists. However, if you can complete a watch of this size, you will not be disappointed.
Not only is it easy to wear, but the combination of GMT and chronograph is also wonderful. These two complications are not only practical during military missions, but they are also ones I use on a regular basis. My biggest fear was the added challenge of Destro configuration. To be honest, after a day I got used to it and everything went smoothly. After wearing the Milgraf for a week, I reluctantly passed it on. I wish I had spent more time there. It wasn’t because I didn’t understand the content or couldn’t reach an opinion. No, it’s just that I had so much fun wearing it.
Modern chronograph with excellent cost performance
Now the question arises whether to buy a Micromilspec milgraph or not. The honest answer is a heartfelt “Yes!” I would add here that pursue it at the right time. Because at this point, I’m not looking for the latest GMT chronograph. I have my eye on a variety of watches. That doesn’t change the fact that I feel this is easily the best chronograph you can buy for 3,500 euros.
It’s no wonder that this year’s 50 reservations are filling up quickly. For now, you can only add your name to the waiting list in hopes of getting one in due course. I may have missed the initial hype about this watch during Geneva Watch Days. But after spending time with the Micro Mil-Spec Milgraph, I completely understood what the excitement was all about. The Milgraph is Micro Milspec’s best release to date, and incidentally, one of the best chronographs of the year.
