Did you know that humans have been making pottery for at least 26,000 years? They did so by fusing clay and silica into intense heat to form a ceramic material. Traditionally, these were not dishes, as you would expect. Rather, they were small and sculpted figures. Only in the 1970s was ceramic entering the world of watches. Omega, IWC, and Rado have pioneered non-metallic materials that stand out for their resistance to scratches and antioxidant and low oxidative properties. However, a coincidence of observation made me think about ancient materials that have evolved into high-tech materials. Ceramic is a new gold. Gold watches adhere to the prices of precious metals on the market, but ceramic pricing is much more fluid.
Ceramics in the watch industry are very different from the typical ceramics found in bathroom tiles. Traditional ceramic raw materials are made up of clay minerals such as kaolinite, but newer materials include aluminum oxide, also known as alumina. The ceramic materials used in watches are known for their highly high-tech properties and are much more durable than the ceramics that are usually found in ceramics. To achieve a premium and luxurious feel, the ceramics of the watch are made from pure metal compounds.
Recently, advanced ceramics are made from silicon carbide and tungsten carbide. These materials are highly regarded for their wear resistance and are ideal for use in applications such as wear plates in mining equipment. Advanced ceramics are widely used in a variety of industries and applications, including medical and electrical devices, electronic devices, armor and more. If you want to learn more about the pros and cons of ceramic watches, click here for Henry’s helpful article.
Rado Captain Cook High-tech Ceramic Skeleton Ref. R32150162
Ceramics are the new gold – then and now
Ceramic watches are becoming more and more common. Many brands offer ceramic watches, including Tudor, Omega, Rado, IWC, Fublott and Blanpine. It all began in the 1970s when Omega unveiled the Seamaster Cellmet after many (expensive) developments. It was made from a unique ceramic material made from aluminum oxide and carbide tungsten, and was only available on special orders. Due to the enormous R&D and production costs, the price was about four times the price of the Speedmaster. As a result, it was by no means a commercial success.
Omega Seamaster Cellmet Black Tulips – Image: Blanc & Sons
IWC Da Vinci Ref. IW3755-05 Permanent Calendar – Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
Another important early model of ceramic watches was the 1986 IWC Da Vinci Ref. The 3755 is available in either black or white ceramics, and the 1990 Rado Ceramica is the first watch to have an all-ceramic case and bracelet. Colored ceramics are a more recent development. Again, relative newcomers like IWC and Audemars Piguet and Hublot have a rainbow of colorful ceramic clocks in their collection.
Royal Oak Offshore SelfWinding Chronograph Ref. 26238ce.oo.1300ce.01
Exclusive coincidence
The idea in this article was born out of praise. When I was at Audemars Piguet recently, I got the impressive Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Chronograph ref. 26238ce.oo.1300ce.01 Again. This is a full ceramic version of the iconic “Beast.” I couldn’t help but ask for the price, but I was well aware that it was too big for my budget, but I was well aware. The full ceramic beast priced at 86,600 euros, and the price somehow stuck with me. A few days later, while browsing the Audemars Piguet website, I took a closer look at the self-winding chronograph ref off the coast of Royal Oak. 26238or.oo.2000or.01. This is the full pink gold version. I realized the price of 92,800 euros and thought about Ceramic Beast again. The difference “just” €6,200 is amazing and very small.
Then I thought about looking at the Royal Oak Collection and things became even more amazing. 41mm Royal Oak Self Winding Chronograph ref. 26240ce.oo.1225ce.02 costs 78,000 euros for the all-black ceramic, 26240or.oo.1320or.05, and the rose gold version of the same 41mm chronograph is also 78,000 euros. On the AP, ceramics are worth the weight of gold.
Royal Oak Self-Finding Chronograph ref. 26240ce.oo.1225ce.02 – Image: K2 Luxury SA (via Chrono24)
Price per kilo
The amazing prices on the AP made me see the sacrifice of raw materials. One kilogram of zirconium dioxide, the basic element required to create a ceramic watch, costs around 40 US dollars. This is over a kilogram of 316L steel and costs around $7. Steel’s FYI is building Reference 26238st.oo.2000st.0, a Royal Oak Offshore Self-Finding Chronograph for 46,400 Euros in its original 1993 style. If the AP wants to make royal oak offshore with gold, the price of the raw materials will be much higher. Gold prices have risen, with two days ago asking price per kilo of gold bar at USD 94,954.82.
Hublot Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic Ref. 441.GX.5210.RX
Production Cost
The simple answer to the (relatively) high price of ceramic watches is the cost of production. Creating a ceramic watch takes a lot of effort and time. Shortening a long story takes time to shape, sinter and finish, and special machines and tools take time to do. But it is not a new production process. Yes, innovation is still ongoing, but fundamentals have long fallen from the pioneering stage. There is a price to pay for a ceramic watch, as titanium watches are a little more expensive than steel watches, and because they require different tools and are a little difficult to give a luxurious look finish. It’s easy to understand that relatively soft gold is cheaper to finish than super hard ceramics. Production costs must be handed over somewhere, but on the AP, an alchemist/bookkeeping miracle happened. The brand has changed ceramics to gold!
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Ref. 210.92.44.20.01.001 43.5mm black ceramic case
Other brand pricing
The AP price saw some of the other brands that have a reputation for ceramic watches. Omega sells the Seamaster Diver 300m Ref. 210.92.44.20.01.001 A rubber strap with a 43.5mm black ceramic case for 9,900 euros. Difference from the Seamaster Diver 300m Ref. 210.62.42.20.01.002 With a rubber strap 42mm Sedona Gold case, it feels immeasurably logical. For precious metals, this diver costs 32,500 euros.
IWC Pilot Watch Chronograph 42 Top Gun Moherb Desert Ref. Beige Ceramic’s IW389402
The IWC is another pioneer in ceramic watches, the Black Pilot Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ref. The price of the IW389401 is 9,700 euros. Colored ceramics are more current developments, with the Pilot Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Moherb Desert priced at 12,900 euros. IW389402. However, the 5n Red Gold is the pilot’s watch chronograph ref. IW388110 will return 25,000 euros.
Hublot Big Bang Unico Yellow Magic
At Hublot, Beige is too vanilla-rich, and the Nyon-based brand has recently developed several brightly colored ceramic watches. Take the 44mm Hublot Big Bang Unico Yellow Magic Ref. For example, 421.cy.471y.r on the rubber strap. This enthusiastic creation costs 30,800 euros. If you want the same watch with King Gold, please refer to it. 421.OX.1180.RX, price will rise to 46,800 euros.
Hublot Big Bang integrated black magic with full ceramic attire
But, strangely enough, €26,200 42mm Big Bang integrated Black Magic ref. The cost of a 451.cx.1170.cx ceramic three-row bracelet is 4,800 euros cheaper than the yellow ceramic big bang with a rubber strap. I think it’s the price you pay for the enthusiasm.
Rado Captain Cook High-tech Ceramic Diver ref. R32144202
Two Captain Cooks
Ceramic Pioneer Rad does not make gold watches. The brand makes many types of ceramic watches from all sorts of “blends.” Rado also makes steel watches. For example, there is the retro style 42mm Rado Captain Cook Automatic Ref. R32154208. You will pay 2,950 euros for this stainless steel watch. This fits 164 grams. Next is the retro-futtist Captain Cook high-tech ceramic diver ref. R32144202 with 43mm matte plasma high-tech ceramic case. This watch weighs 159 grams and costs 4,100 euros. This is a sudden price considering price per kilometre and knowledge of intensive production processes. It also further promotes confusion over the price of ceramic watches. There appears to be little correlation between the price of the raw material and the final product. That’s not uncommon when it comes to luxury items.
Rado Captain Cook High-tech Ceramic Skeleton Ref. R32192152
Pricing Psychology
In its simplest form, price reflects value. But in the realm of luxury watches, it reflects much more. Prices reflect the value the brand offers its customers. The most important thing is not ceramic materials or gold. Rather, it is the desirability that a brand develops. You can do this by providing exceptional storytelling and incredible customer experiences.
Black Ceramic Audema Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Self-Finding Chronograph ref. 26238ce.oo.1300ce.01 is not a “jumbo”, but there are people on the waitlist
One of the fundamentals of luxury is that perceived values outweigh actual values. Luxury luxury watches are carefully crafted pieces, but luxury is the careful construction of (much more) perceptions of value beyond the product itself. In the AP, you get it completely, apply it, and scratch your head from time to time. With luxury watches, pricing is still linked to costs, but sometimes it can be very loose. Prices are primarily based on perceived values. And that’s the value a brand can create, regardless of the material of the watch.
What do you think about the seemingly random pricing of ceramic watches? Please let me know in the comments.
