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The Flieger-style pilot’s watch has its roots in World War II, but it has since transcended its origins and taken on a life of its own. Once created to serve a simple purpose, watches are now available with perpetual calendars and tourbillons. It’s not made to fit over a flight jacket, so you can find a size to fit any wrist. Here are some of today’s best Flieger watches, from the most affordable to the most expensive.
Seiko 5 SRPH29
The SRPH collection follows the now-defunct SNK Reference line and borrows many of its design elements from the early 40s Type B Freezier. Most notable are the triangle at 12 o’clock and the five-minute increments placed most prominently outside the hour markers. The hands are a sword-and-syringe style hybrid that evokes a decidedly military aesthetic, and the day/date display offers classic Seiko 5 functionality at an affordable price. With a diameter of 39.4 mm, a lug-to-lug width of 48.1 mm, and water resistance of 100 meters, this case is both versatile and durable. Price: $295
Decra Pilot Watch 40
If you’re looking for a sterile dial from Flieger and perhaps want some customization options, Dekla is definitely the way to go. This little-known German brand offers a wide selection of type A or B dials, with options for dial details, case finishes, engravings, and more. Each watch is assembled to order with your choice of ETA or Sellita manual or automatic movement. The case has been subtly redesigned to be comfortable in all diameters, but the 40mm is likely to be the most popular choice, with a lug-to-lug length of 47.1mm. Price: 630 EUR (~650 USD)
Stowa Flieger Bronze Vintage 40
One of the original manufacturers of B-Uhr Flieger watches is Stowa, whose price range typically exceeds other affordable Flieger watch brands. This special timepiece features heat-blue hands, a sterile dial, a choice of automatic or hand-wound Sellita movement, and most importantly, a CuSn8 bronze case. The popularity of bronze cases in vintage-style watches is an interesting anachronism, as it is a relatively new concept, but the patina that bronze cases acquire evokes a sense of the era, and in some cases even brass cases with stripped chrome plating also evokes If you’re looking for something that’s both traditional and original, this is it. Price: 1,450 EUR (~1,500 USD)
Rako Dortmund Erbstug
You can’t miss Laco when browsing Fleegers at any price point. Because Laco is also one of the original brands that manufactured them during World War II. The watches appear to have been salvaged from the cockpit of a World War II crash site, and each one is hand-finished to a unique state of destruction. Some may wonder why you should buy a watch that looks as aged as a pair of torn jeans, but the aged lume, faded dial, and rugged case can be It has the artistry to tell its own story. This 45mm version with a Type B dial is a particular favorite of mine, and I recommend making it as big as possible before wearing it over a leather jacket. Price: $2,500
Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Gasoline
The Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax is one of the few Flieger watches that successfully adapts the genre to modern style without making it feel cheap or pointless. Expressing the austere nature of a military pilot’s chronograph, unnecessary markings have been reduced for clarity, but the petrol dial color in particular gives it a flashy aspect. The 43mm case is water resistant to 200 meters, is made of stainless steel, and is powered by an automatic movement based on the Sellita SW510. This is a big watch with a bigger personality, which is exactly what it deserves as a successor to the original Flieger. Price: $3,820
IWC Pilot Watch Chronograph 41
Stepping into the realm of Flieger chronographs, IWC truly claims that title. The classic layout and simple charm with a touch of the ’90s are emphasized by the red hand and day-date display on the running seconds subdial. The bracelet makes it versatile for both casual and formal events. Caliber 69385 is a column-wheel chronograph with a 46-hour power reserve and a 4Hz beat rate. These movements were introduced in 2016 and represent a significant improvement in quality and craftsmanship compared to their Valjoux-based predecessors. The blue dial is also a nice design that puts a modern twist on the Flieger stereotype. Price: $7,700
Time+Tide Timeless Pick: IWC Big Pilot Watch
The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is the quintessential luxury Flieger, as bold as possible without being shy about its lug-to-lug length. Yes, this is still a model that can be purchased from IWC’s current catalog, but there have been so many great references over the years that we had to choose it as our Timeless Pick. Of course, you should know where those early watches came from, as their roots go back to the 40s, but vintage watches have a lot of character and value. Used prices start at around $5,000 for automatic versions, with more complex movements that include perpetual calendars and precious metals easily reaching high five-figure territory.
