Tom Austin’s Fanfabee Light British Independent Studio Underd0G and bespoke French watchmaker Saltore Billard joined forces to formally end the winter in the coolest way possible. Produced by Sartory Billard and designed by Studio UnderD0G, the SB05 Sunfl0Wer blends playful creativity with serious watchmaking skills. Limited to just 10, the SB05 is uniquely tuned to embody the sunflower and Geneva flower lock themes.
When the Northern Hemisphere arrives at the end of March, days are long, miserable grey clouds subside, and blue skies are a more frequent sight in the UK. I’ve felt this many years since I came here, but what better way to mark the end of a cold, lonely winter, longer than a new watch? OK, enough Beatles references. If you are affiliated with a company like Studio UnderD0G, you can bet that the outcome is not boring. That’s certainly true, and that’s exactly what Sartory Billard, a bespoke French watchmaker. The result of this partnership is the SB05 sunfl0wer, a watch that embodies the summer theme and brings a fusion of fun and passion to custom-made watchmaking.
Sartory Billard is well known for offering a wide range of customization options for time-only clocks, and the SB05 is no exception. It also introduces the fresh perspectives and quick box approaches of Studio UnderD0G, as well as the incredible craftsmanship from the entire French and Swiss watchmaking industry.
Firstly, the case is not only 38.5mm wide, but also thick, with only 8.5mm thick, with a thin ratio. Made from 316L stainless steel, no one is manufactured except for Voutilainen & Cattin SA, founded by Finnish master watch maker Kari Voutilainen. This is also because attention to detail is obvious. The case is carefully constructed from multiple parts, securing each lug individually to ensure that each joint is beautifully finished. At first glance, there’s nothing particularly spectacular about this case, but that’s fine, but take a closer look. It also reveals that the agenda is very high in fit and finish.
The watch is surrounded by a classic concave bezel, which polishes the blasted sides of the case with the brushed lug in contrast. Each piece is equipped with a sapphire crystal in the front and a large sapphire display caseback at the rear. The 45.5mm lug-to-lug measurement makes it quite thin for most wrists and makes the watch really comfortable to wear.
Like all Studio UnderD0G watches, you need a theme. I can’t imagine many other watch-related brands that do this boldly. The SB05Sunfl0Wer is probably one of the boldest things I’ve seen. Of course, the incredible dial is inspired by sunflowers, with a spectacular grain guillothi pattern divided into dark seed-like centers, featuring 24 individually carved petals. In the True Studio UnderD0G style, sapphire rings are placed above the dial, making it appear that the floating minute tracks float above the surface.
Even the sword’s hand is unique, with a flash of green light as a base and a bright ring around the small second dial. Finally, the dial is proudly finished with a plate featuring the Studio UnderD0G and the Saltry Billard logo. The dials are playful with the use of colour, but they are one of those dials, enchanting the details and revealing a special level of detail. The watch was released in Geneva on March 31st, and the watch directly references the famous Flower Rock (Horloge Fleurie) in the heart of the city.
At the heart of this unconventional classic watch is the SMB01, a hand-winding caliber based on the La Joux-Perret 7380. Of course, it is intricately customized by Sartory Billard, and it appears to be superior as a result. Benefits from a critical 90-hour power reserve and is accurate within +/7 seconds per day. The movement is 2.7mm thick, so it’s no wonder the SB05 is very comfortable in size and looks great through the casebacks on display thanks to the lashings of the Perlage Finishing and Gray NAC treatment.
The artisan theme continues to the straps offered by the strap tailor, one of the best in the game. With tapered soft leather finished in forest green, it is the perfect choice for such a watch and matches the details of your hand. Naturally, the strap comes with a curved quick release spring bar and a 316L stainless steel pin buckle. It’s difficult to drill holes in these straps. They are the same as those that come with other studio UnderD0G pieces, and I can say they are great.
The watch industry can sometimes be a stifling place. I like to stick to what it knows and rarely do it. And whether you like it or not, Studio UnderD0G may be questioning it, but that level does its best to show that things don’t have to be that way. Working with other brands like Fears and H. Moser & Cie is a testament to that.
The SB05 brings yet another fresh perspective. Thinking outside the box can provide something super cool. When working with an attractive and experienced craftsman watchmaker, it allows you to create watches with all the exceptional details that enthusiasts love. The SB05 captures the summer feeling in a way that doesn’t look like a poor choice at any other time of the year.
SARTORY BILLARD SB05 SUNFL0WER BY STUDIO UNDERD0G price and availability
The Sartory Billard SB05 Sunfl0Wer by Studio UnderD0G is limited to 10. It will be exhibited at Hotel Beauli Beige in Geneva from March 31st to April 4th, and will be available on the Saltry Billard website on April 4th on a first-come, first-served basis. Price: 12,700 euros (excluding VAT)
Studio By Studio Underd0g Model SB05 SB05 SUNFL0WER Reference SB05SF Case Dimensions 38.5mm(D) x 8.5mm(T) x 8.5mm(T) Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Water Resistant 50m Crystal Crystal (S) Sapphire Front and Back Dial Dial Ground Grain Guilloche Pattern, Strap Sistemed Stainless Steel Pin Buckle Movement Forest Green Grain Leather La Joux-perret 7380, Handwound Power Reserve 90 Hours Function Price €12,700.00 (excluding VAT)
