Note that the headline does not refer to the 1931 book, the art of speculation, by Philip Callett (1896–1998). Rather, I’m guessing what Vacheron Constantin has for us this year. As you probably know, this year, Geneva watchmaker Vacellon Constantine is celebrating his 270th birthday. The celebration began with the steel version of Historiques 222, the sporty successor to the yellow gold version that debuted in 2022. The watch was a big deal for the brand and enthusiasts. Launching the steel version of the 222 three months ahead of Watches and Wonders is probably the perfect venue to host a festival, so you’re wondering if the clock is on stage during a party. Applying the art of speculation to the current Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection.
Soon after the release of History 222 in luscious yellow gold, I wrote that the reborn integrated brate sports watch became obsolete overseas. The statement was based primarily on aesthetic ideas. I was very well aware that Vacheron Constantin was not trying to cancel a strong collection of 40 watches. Yes, I just wrote that recent popularity overseas depends on the unavailability of other watches. But that shouldn’t be done. And it doesn’t have to be. The original 222 would have an impact on the first overseas, and the last iteration, the history of steel 222 should serve as a starting point for the next generation.
The History of Steel 222
Applying the art of speculation to the current Vacheron Constantin overseas collection
For context, see Royal Chronometer Ref. 1975/76 Royal Chronometer Ref. The 2215 was the first sports watch of “VC” with an integrated bracelet. However, it is the 222 designed by Jörg Hysek, which debuted in 1977 and debuted to celebrate the brand’s 222nd anniversary. First and foremost, the original and re-edited 222 are in the very 1970s with round bezels with design elements of Maltese crosses with barrel-shaped cases and round bezels with notched round bezels. Just seven years after his debut, 222 was cancelled. Just 12 years later, VC launched another luxurious sports watch with an integrated bracelet. However, in 1996, 222 did not return. Instead, VC launched a collection of watches that have been dubbed overseas.
First generation overseas – Image: Vintage Amsterdam watches
The first generation overseas is in the 1990s, just as 222 is in the 1970s. Not only has the overall size of the watch grown, but the details have also grown. It sounds logical, but it didn’t necessarily occur proportionally. In the 1990s there was a revival of luxury, but grunge also comes from that era. And so are the dominant neon colours and oversized clothing. Meanwhile, minimalism has also been large, leading to trend watchers who have described the 1990s as the most contradictory and creative age of all time. The first Seiko Spring Drive Watch comes from that era, so does Blancpain Trilogy Fifty Fathoms, Fifty Fathoms Gmt and Air Command.
Image: Vintage Amsterdam watch
It’s safe to say that in the 1990s, today’s luxury watchmaking was still in its early stages. The quartz crisis remains a vivid memory, and the idea of making watches as an emotional luxury experience was something brands and customers had to thrive.
Image: Vintage Amsterdam watch
Forever the 1990s kids
The first generation of overseas watches were produced between 1996 and 2004. As you can see in the photo of Reference 42050/423A, the design was an edgy angle. “Rough” and “Unrefined” are also words that match the design of the watch. Also, the first overseas model looks too different to be called the original 222 natural evolution.
Overseas 2nd Generation – Image: View Collector
The same can be said for the second generation, which debuted in 2004. The bezels and bracelet inspired by its Maltese crossing are still very angular and prominent. Many shape details especially cover the basic shape of the case. They attract too much attention to notice something else.
Titanium overseas tour Billon from the current collection
In 2016, the overseas collection received a different facelift. The result we still deal with today is a smoother look. The rounded edges may have been upgraded in 2016, but 1996 still shines. And it doesn’t bring about any benefits overseas, especially if there are two more timeless 222 variations of the collection.
Double time overseas
Give overseas a chance to fight
Discarding overseas collections and converting History 222 into a line containing models that include perpetual calendars, chronographs, or tourbillons, isn’t the way to go. However, using the original design of 222 as a starting point for the fourth generation overseas may give the collection a proper weapon to give it a chance to fight against the Royal Oaks and Nautilus of this world.
Overseas monthly phase retrograde days
What are those “weapons”? Smaller, slimmer case and subtle details. In other words, Dino Modoro, the man who designed the first generation of overseas watches after drawing Fidia for VC, is not rude. Yes, the original overseas design featured a thin barrel-shaped case. Still, it also showed a sturdy, brick-style integrated bracelet with a sturdy scalloped screw-down bezel that wasn’t “coarse and thick.” It was modern in the 90s, but it is impossible to call design strong enough to withstand the test of time.
Automatic winding overseas
If Vacheron Constantin can create a robust new foundation for its international collections, three automatic models with date functions come to mind. Current clocks with references starting at 4520V have a case of 41mm diameter with a thickness of 10.6mm. It is a starting point with a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 10mm or less. Less details would be preferred too. Everything doesn’t have to look like a Maltese cross. If you ask me, the “less” principle goes a long way too for gorgeous sports watches. Too many designs’ flirtiness not only messes up the overall look, but also gets in the way of ageing with grace and association. I hope and hope for this regarding the fourth generation overseas.
Overseas chronographs
Final predictions including 222
The original 222 was available in steel, steel/gold and full gold. Two sizes were available. This is a 38mm version with an ultra-thin 1121 caliber and a 34mm quartz model. Reviving the steel and gold models could be an idea for next year. However, the 34mm quartz model may be something we witness between the watch and the wonder. But you can win it and sit next to a “regular” watch, a special festive edition decorated with jewels with 270 diamonds.
This article began with the possibility of confusion regarding the type of speculation. For those who wish to comment on my speculation about possible next-generation foreign models and economic types, here is a link to the art of speculation by Philip Callett. According to experts, the book is classic in every sense of the word. It is also related today as in 1931, the year it was written. Carret is considered a leading thinker of fundamental value investments, and Warren Buffett is a praiser for Carret. I stick to the art of speculating about the potential of future watches.
