take a bow. That freak deserves respect. In fact, Freak is the muck daddy of everything we call nouvelle watches. In 2001, a strange and unexpected timepiece emerged from Ulysse Nardin’s atelier in Le Locle and shook the world of watchmaking to its core. The world wasn’t yet ready for alien mechanical watches with no hands, no crown, and no dial to tell the time. The people responsible for this anomaly were Ulysse Nardin’s visionary former CEO Rolf Schneider and the genius watchmaker Dr. Ludwig Oechslin. Freak movements attracted attention in entirely new ways, paving the way for wild creations from experimental luxury watch brands like MB&F, Urwerk, and HYT. The new Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue keeps the shocking concept alive.
Twenty-three years after the original Freak, the Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue makes its debut. It took us more than 20 years to get used to the unique look and concept of this watch, but it still looks “upset.” That’s because Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, a former Vatican watch restorer, created a highly original and unique movement concept that continues to stand out today. It starts with a mainspring barrel that rotates once every 12 hours. Oxlin then connects the barrel, which provides a week (!) power reserve, to the center pinion, and connects the bridge with the gear train, escapement, balance spring, and balance around the case flange to the hourly power reserve. It was driven to.
understand freaks
How does the Freak display time? In fact, the hour hand/marker is a movable bridge above the barrel that rotates once every 12 hours. The bridge holds the hour wheel’s arbor in place, is attached to the barrel, and is secured to a rack on the inside perimeter of the case. Ochslin’s construction also made it possible to remove the traditional crown and create a rotating caseback for winding the mainspring.
Before we discuss the new Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue, a final word on movement construction is about the carousel tourbillon. There is debate among movement experts and purists as to whether the Freak uses a “real” tourbillon or just one for technical reasons. This is the technical point. The balance is housed within a rotating structure. This tourbillon therefore qualifies as a tourbillon, but unlike a traditional “whirlwind” that rotates once a minute, a tourbillon only completes one revolution every hour.
Denim look freak that will rock your world
Now let’s take a look at the latest freak. There are currently three Freak families, all descended from the original 2001 Freak, but with different evolutions. The Freak X is the “budget” series with a crown, the Freak S series is the most complicated series with two balances, and the Freak One is a direct evolution of the watch that started this outstanding watch family. You will find a variety of models. Freaks here.
The Freak One Navy Blue (€67,500, incl. 21% VAT / US$66,800, excl. VAT) is a black and blue piece ready to rock the world of double denim. The satin polished and black DLC-treated titanium 44×13.5mm case measures 51.5mm lug-to-lug and has a forged carbonium bezel.
There are two types of rubber straps to choose from. First, there’s the blue and black rubber “Ballistic” textured strap on our review sample, and there’s also another option in blue and gray rubber. Both straps are made from 30% recycled production waste and come with a black DLC-coated titanium and black ceramic folding clasp.
Intuitive technical ability
The ballistic strap is matched with a deep blue rotating sunray pattern disc that indicates the time. But it’s the black mechanical ballet performed in front of that navy background that hypnotizes you. From the outset, we should mention that the Freak is equipped with another great feature: dual direct escapements. Although invented by Monsieur Breguet, Dr. Ochslin, as a watchmaker, repaired these types of escapements and was able to build a double escapement for the Freak. He did it using silicone. The Freak was the first watch to use silicon in its movement. Oechslin wanted to use silicone because of its lightweight, non-magnetic properties, corrosion resistance, and slippery nature. Silicone requires very little lubrication.
The production caliber UN-240 also uses silicon, including its oversized oscillator and hairspring. The escape wheel and anchor are made from DiamonSil, an evolution of silicone patented in 2009. DiamonSil features a plasma surface treatment process that combines silicon and synthetic diamond. This movement is also equipped with Ulysse Nardin’s grinder automatic winding system. It has a central rotor on one ball bearing with three smaller ball bearings underneath, linked to a four-armed frame. Grinder winding systems provide twice the torque of mechanisms with standard wound rotors. In fact, the smallest movements can be turned into energy for the barrel. However, you can also put the case back and wind the movement manually to maximize the 90-hour power reserve. Doing so is a completely different experience elsewhere.
Wearing Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue
The UN logo features an anchor, a reminder of the brand’s history as the originator of marine chronometers. The marine color of the Freak One Navy Blue is a nod to maritime history. Still, blue jeans are likely to go mainstream and be perceived as a modern colorway that fits in with an increasingly informal world. On the wrist, the Freak One Navy Blue certainly dominates. Simply put, it’s a big watch. It’s not too big, certainly not too heavy, and the shape isn’t awkward, but I think it’s suitable for occasional use. This is probably not the best daily winner for everyone. Freak buyers probably have more Freaks and other notable watches in their collections, so they can rotate them.
They may also want to have this Freak in their rotation because of its dual deployment clasp. This structure is not the easiest to use and the most comfortable to wear. It may look like a pin buckle, but it’s not. But if you want something that looks like a pin buckle, why not try using one? This is especially true if your watch is equipped with a rubber strap that can handle pins without any problems. All watch brands need to rethink the folding clasp as a “luxury” element. Is it really the best choice if it uses materials such as rubber, or if the watch has a modern or high-tech look?
strange mechanical symphony
But the most eye-catching feature isn’t the large case, but rather the swinging black and blue balance wheel. And that movement makes a sound. A winding system with one ball bearing and three ball bearings below it creates a kind of mechanical symphony. Maybe it’s because I’m into cycling and I like the sounds that different types of freehubs make. In any case, the “voice” of the clock doesn’t bother me. The sound is not as raw as Sistem51. Rather, it’s more layered and sophisticated, serving as a techno soundtrack.
The watch’s most distinctive feature is its engraved bezel made of forged marble-like carbonium. When you release the part labeled “FREAK” at the 6 o’clock position, the bezel will be unlocked and you can set the time. By doing so, the entire movement starts moving faster and provides a visual explanation of how the caliber works.
The way the outermost wheel of the gear train makes contact with the teeth on the flange is insightful and spectacular. Once you try it for yourself, you’ll never forget it. And the next time you see a metal freak, you’ll be bowing down to a timepiece that’s as innovative and unique today as it was 23 years ago. Respect Ulysse Nardin Freak!
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