Tom Austin
In 2017, young Hong Kong Leonardo Tsai launched a new micro brand and set out to rekindle the tradition of family dial makers. Selten was born. It fits perfectly with the brand that combines the word “rare” with Leonardo’s admiration for German watchmaking. So far, three models have filled the Selten catalogue: Series 00, Salvage Bronze, M1 MoonHase, and now there are new variations in the Selten lineup: The Métiers D’Art Collection – Grand Feu Enamel series. The collection incorporates Tsai’s passion for artisan dial works and masters the enamel artistry that takes decades.
case
Continuing from the brand’s M1 MoonPhase model, the Grand Feu Enamel series shares the same case design. The 39mm wide, 316L stainless steel case is 10.5mm thick, this time slightly thinner than the M1. The watch is classically proportional, with a soft, curved tapered lug of 20mm width. The lug appears to be widely spaced in the case, giving the watch a look, but balances it with a diameter of 39mm. The polished bezel extends to the outer edge of the case, framing everything nicely. The finish is perfect for watches at this price range. It has a clean vivel edge, in contrast to a brushed surface.
The large crown and dome-shaped sapphire crystal provide water resistance of 50 meters, which is at least not large, but is at least appropriate. This is not a dive watch, but it needs to be handled easily and easily on a daily basis. Sapphire display caseback finishes things up.
Dial
As mentioned in my introduction, Leonardo Tsai comes from the family of artisan dial makers who first influenced the brand, so the desire to create branded watches with exquisite dials has always been there. The idea will come true once Leonardo meets Qin, a self-taught enamelist, jeweller and sculptor in 2021. The Grand Feu Enamel Collection features a meticulously engraved dial in a sunburst pattern, each taking about 4-5 hours to complete.
I love subtle variations and the Grand Fewey Enamel collection stops you and double take. -It’s one of the sides of the watch that excites me. Although it may not be the case at first, there are actually two different styles of dials that are used in Grand Feu enamel, out of five different colors. The first is “flare”, with all 700 lines of patterns emanating from the center in a sunburst pattern, and the second is “spiral”, again with about 700 engraved lines, but this time there is a subtle spiral effect radiated from the center.
The dial layout is classic, with printed minute tracks and a combination of slim Roman numerals with slim applied time markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. The hands are finely polished and there is no time for vintage-inspired observatory style, but it’s just a stylistic choice, as it reveals nothing. I wanted to see the Selten logo being a little more subtle, perhaps smaller and even completely missing, like the M1 MoonPhase, but that’s not a broken deal.
strap
Each Grand Fewenamel watch is equipped with a handmade leather strap by Hasnobounds, each carefully selected to pair with a specific color on the dial. The “Moonstone” comes with gray leather, the “Golden Fall” pairs with light beige, the “Rustic” matches a rusty brown, the “Prism Violet” comes with lavender leather, and the “Sunbird Blue” matches a dark brown leather strap. All leather straps come with steel pin buckles, but they come with an optional stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp, and for an additional $70, you can equip a micro adjuster for on-the-fly adjustments.
Movement
Miyota Japan’s movements powered Selten’s previous watches, but in this model, Selten chose the Swiss caliber, the Soprod M100 automatic movement. This is a movement shared by many microbrands and is based on the original Soprod Caliber A10. The Grand Feu has five positions adjusted to improve accuracy of +-6sec/day, and has a 42-hour power reserve at 28,800Vph. At 3.6mm thick, it’s a nice, thin time-only movement, so it’s interesting to see that the watch doesn’t have the room to thin out overall.
What’s a little different is that Celten offers an additional $100 for a hand-held automatic rotor option for this movement. Many microbrands commission custom rotor designs for ready-made movements, which are cut more than other products. Without the rotor, the movement ends comfortably (industrially) but it would be ridiculous that C’mon doesn’t go to the rotors carved here.
Selten Métiers D’Art Collection – Grand Feu Enamel Series Pricing and Availability
Selten Métiers D’Art Collection – Grand Feu Enamel series can pre-order delivery with delivery starting in April 2025. Price: 1,899 US$ (Spiral Design, Spiral Design, Pre-Order Price), US$2,599 (Full Price), US$2,899 (Full Price)
Brand Celten Model Metier D’Art Collection – Grand Fewe Enamel Series Case Dimension 39mm(D) x 10.9mm(T) Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Water Resistance 50m Crystal Engraved Silver Dial with Front and Back Dial 5 Enamel Sunburst Color Options, “Spiral” or “Spier Slaps Wid Mum) 20mmM
Optional steel bracelet with butterfly clasp ($80)
Optional Micro-Adjuster (US $150) Movement SOPROD M100, Automatic
Optional Hand Engled Rotor (US$100) Power Reserve 42 Hours Function Available in Hours, Minutes, Seconds Pre-order Open Price: US$1,899 (Flare), 2,199 US$ (Spiral)
Regular price: 2,599 US dollars (flare), 2,899 US dollars (spiral)
It was created in collaboration with Selten. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with the editorial policy.
