Welcome to our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown series. Every Sunday morning, two authors face off in a timeless battle. Mike and Jorg are taking on that challenge this week with a value-oriented diver’s watch. Both are fairly recent releases from some of the more affordable and popular brands in the watch world. While Jorg chose the controversial Seiko Prospex SPB483, Mike decided to favor the 40mm Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80, which was released earlier this year. It’s time for their battle while drinking delicious coffee and enjoying their story. In the end, your victory will be decided!
Both of today’s watches were released this year. The Seiko Prospex SPB483 is part of a trio of new Prospex divers that introduce new geometries. The controversial octagonal bezel is a much-debated element, but not everyone is convinced. The watch costs 1,200 euros, which is a little more expensive than the watch Mike chose, but Jorg, who has used it himself, definitely tries to convince us why it’s a great watch. Probably. He and the Seiko SPB483 will go head-to-head with Mike and the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80, which debuted this spring in a new 40mm size. This watch offers incredible value for money and the Swiss-made quality guarantee that many watch enthusiasts love. What’s more, it costs just 795 euros, making it more affordable than its competitors. But does that guarantee victory? Let’s find out!
Last week on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Before we get into that, let’s take a quick look back at last Sunday’s battle. Among them: the Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 won with 62% of the votes compared to 38% for the new black dial No Date Omega Seamaster Diver 300M. But while the results clearly showed Rolex winning, the comments offered a more nuanced view. Still, there was no question that the Sub was the more popular watch. There are several reasons why people voted for Rolex. For example, the Submariner dates back to the 1950s, the bracelet is better, or it’s simply a better watch. But at the end of the day, there’s no doubt that they both have huge fan bases. That applies to both Seiko and Tissot. But who will come out on top among today’s candidates? Let’s find out…
Jorg: Seiko Prospex SPB483
Today, I have the difficult task of defending a watch that caused many questionable reactions upon its release. The controversial SPB483 is part of three new watches released by Seiko in October. I tried the watch and was surprised at how much I liked it. As I explained in my review article, we watch enthusiasts are an interesting bunch. We always want to see new designs, but once we discover one, we rack up references like crazy to prove it’s similar to something else. This new Seiko Prospex SPB483 also gets that treatment. And for the record, I’m guilty of doing that too. As soon as I saw the octagonal bezel, a visual association immediately came to mind.
But it’s easy to praise or criticize it based solely on the shape of the bezel. It’s too easy. So, Mike, I hope you don’t go down that path either. You know how good Seiko designers are at repeatedly making things that look like Seiko. This SPB483 is no exception. As I explained in the review, I started to think of familiar references at first glance. But after a few seconds, I let it go and started embracing the design for what it was meant to be: a new Seiko Prospex diver. Immediately, I was completely fascinated by this new model.
Thoroughly thought out design
There are good reasons to start with the case and bezel design. The efforts of Seiko’s designers to successfully combine both elements are impressive. They knew that to make the bezel shape truly special, they needed an angular case with prominent lugs. And they managed to design it quite beautifully. The contours of the watch are stunning, and the lug lines are visually dramatic, creating a new silhouette that immediately stands out. But what’s notable is that the profile of the case is instantly recognizable as a Seiko diver. The Seiko-like dial further enhances the atmosphere.
Before proceeding, let’s check the basic specifications. The stainless steel case measures 41.3mm in diameter, 12.5mm thick, and 48.2mm lug to lug. It’s slightly larger than the Tissot, but from experience it doesn’t wear noticeably larger. Still, its overall presence is far more dramatic. While Tissot fits perfectly into the traditional but predictable mold of dive watches, Seiko is pivoting and introducing something more exciting. I love the sculptural shape of the case with the dramatic lugs that flow nicely into the beautiful crown guard on the right side.
SPB483 is an unmistakable Seiko Prospex design
The octagonal bezel matches the case shape and features fairly rounded edges, giving it plenty of elegance. Indeed, its shape is reminiscent of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer, and some suggest a combination of Gerard Genta’s designs. I understand that. But once you put it on your wrist, there’s no doubt that you’re wearing a Seiko Diver. The combination of the lugs, bezel numbers, and especially the dial make this unmistakably Seiko.
The case is fitted with an Oyster-style bracelet with polished center links and brushed outer links. I really like the balance between the case size and the bracelet, and I was really impressed with how comfortable it was to wear on my wrist. I have to admit that the integration of the bracelet into the case is not the best. The inside of the lugs descend dramatically to the bracelet, which sits quite low. However, I must also say that the quality of the bracelet is great for the price. I’ve handled both the SPB483 and the Seastar in question, and I can say that the Seiko bracelet is sturdier and better made than the Tissot bracelet.
Seiko is a much more exciting option
Inside the case is Seiko’s in-house caliber 6R55. This automatic movement operates at 21,600 vph and has a 72-hour power reserve. This is a familiar movement that Seiko uses in various watches. Advertised accuracy is +25/-15 seconds per day, but it’s not necessarily better than Tissot’s Powermatic 80. I understand that that might be a concern for spec-obsessed people.
However, when choosing between these two watches, you can base your choice on several principles. For me, it’s the design and the spirit behind it that matters. The Seiko Prospex SPB483 wasn’t made to please everyone, but I love it. This is an unusual design for Seiko that has divided opinions. But as already mentioned, it’s still a Seiko Prospex diver. I was really impressed when I put the blue SPB483 on my wrist.
The Tissot Seastar 1000 ticks a lot of boxes, but it just didn’t give me the excitement I felt when wearing the Seiko SPB483. At the end of the day, that’s what watches are all about to me. You need a desire to wear a watch, and while I got that with the SPB483, I didn’t feel that at all with the Tissot. That’s why Seiko is my clear winner in this matchup. But I know you have something to say about it, Mike…
Microphone: Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80
Tissot Seastar 1000 offers a price advantage. But is that really an advantage, or does it mean this watch is a less worthy competitor to the SPB483? As a die-hard Seiko fan, I never cross-shop products from the Swatch Group. did. However, since the introduction of the Powermatic 80 and Tissot’s better-looking options, this idea doesn’t seem so far-fetched anymore. As I’ve quipped in podcasts and articles, brands like Tissot, Certina, and Mido are now beating Seiko at the game they once dominated.
Affordable full fat diver
The Seastar 1000 debuted in March of this year in four variants, including a stainless steel model, black PVD, and two-tone gold PVD. Tissot went with mainstream sizes, including a case measuring 40mm x 46mm and only 12.5mm thick.
Luxury features such as a 300 meter water resistance rating, screw-down crown and sapphire crystal impress on a watch with a base price of just 795 euros. Additionally, depending on the model, it is offered with an Oyster-style bracelet or a black Tropic-style strap with a quick-release spring bar. Seriously, these watches pack a lot of value.
Add a little flair to the textured dial
With textured dials on the Seastar 1000 and Seiko SPB483, we must be living in the era of textured dials. For Tissot, the wood-like vertical grain dials are available in blue, turquoise, or gray. The combination of luminescent rectangular, circular, and triangular applied indexes creates a clean impression. Similarly, the thick hands coated with Super-LumiNova ensure maximum visibility. A white-on-black date wheel sits within a rectangular frame at the bottom of the dial. Finally, all models come with an external unidirectional bezel. Filled with black mineral glass inserts.
The overall impression is traditional, but
The SPB483 is divisive for its styling, while the Seastar 1000 may be criticized for being too traditional. In my opinion, a diver’s watch with classic proportions and style is always welcome. Plus, if it’s as well put together as Tissot, it’s a great choice. Plus, with the PVD option, it’s funky enough to avoid looking too much like, say, a Submariner.
A masterpiece of movement
The Powermatic 80 is widely used in Swatch Group products and is an excellent product in terms of value and performance. The long power reserve of 80 hours was and still is a best-in-class feature. As for accuracy, Tissot says it has an accuracy of ±15 seconds per day, but owners report it to be closer to chronometer levels. This is significantly better than SPB483’s 6R55, even though Tissot operates at the edge of its reported accuracy range.
time of choice
Tissot Seastar 1000 is a value leader in traditional packaging. The Seiko SPB483 and related variants bring a new style to the Seiko Prospex diver with a great finish. In the end, you can only choose one. Would you choose Seiko? Or has Tissot taken the crown in the high-value, high-spec diver’s watch market? Vote and tell us why you picked the winner.
Seiko Prospex SPB483 vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80
