Jamie Weiss
The Seiko 5 SKX Sport Style is one of Seiko’s most popular product lines, but also one of the most controversial among avid watch enthusiasts. Introduced in 2019 as a replacement for the SKX line of watches that were discontinued by the brand (after a whopping 23 years of production), the SKX Sport Style, sometimes simply referred to as the “5KX,” offered the same aesthetics as the SKX at a lower price point, but sacrificed true diver functionality for reduced water resistance, angering some collectors. However, one variant of the 5KX that has received near-universal praise is the GMT series, first released in 2022. One of the most affordable and handsome mechanical GMT watches on the market, the 5 SKX Sport Style GMT collection is expanding with three stylish new variations in 2024, only to widen its appeal.
Incident
As mentioned above, the Seiko 5 SKX Sport Style GMT (hereafter referred to as 5KX GMT) uses the same case design as the original SKX and the 5KX with date and time display. It has a familiar and unassuming design, no sharp edges, and a crown at 4 o’clock. It is 42.5mm in diameter and 13.6mm thick. What’s especially great about the 5KX GMT is that it’s only 0.2mm thicker than the regular 5KX, despite its complications. The crystal and see-through caseback are made from Hardlex, a proprietary mineral glass that is heat-treated to make it scratch-resistant, and is commonly used on affordable Seiko watches.
These three new 5KX GMTs have the exact same case as the previous models, so there’s not much to write home about. However, the two-tone Ref. SSK036K has a gold PVD bezel, making it the second two-tone 5KX model (the first being the 28mm SRE004K, which also has a two-tone bracelet but a fixed bezel). Like the standard 5KX, the 5KX GMT is water resistant to 100 meters (half the SKX’s) and doesn’t have a screw-down crown, but unlike the regular 5KX, these GMT models have a Hardlex bezel insert instead of aluminum. It’s a GMT bezel instead of a dive bezel, so it’s bidirectional instead of unidirectional.
Dial
The 5KX GMT, and indeed the entire SKX series from past to present, have always been mindful of the design and color combinations made famous by the Swiss watch brand with its crown-shaped logo, and the three new 5KX GMTs are no exception. The Ref. SSK033K pairs a silver dial with a bicolor black and blue “Batman” bezel. The Ref. SSK035K has a green dial and black and green bezel, which could be described as Sprite or Kermit-esque. The two-tone Ref. SSK036K has gold-plated hands and indexes, a black dial and bezel, and a bit of a root beer vibe.
These three colorways are versatile and fan-favorite choices. Needless to say, they all feature large Lumibrite-filled indexes and hands, a date window at 3 o’clock (with the familiar Cyclops lens), and a GMT scale on the chapter ring, meaning you can use these watches to track up to three different time zones. Awesome.
bracelet
Both the SSK033K and SSK035K are fitted with Seiko’s new and improved Jubilee-style steel bracelet, which is much sturdier than the wobbly bracelet that came with the older SKX. The SSK036K comes with a brown stitched leather strap, which fits the more vintage vibe but perhaps underscores the 5KX’s positioning as a general-purpose tool watch rather than a dedicated dive watch. This is the first time this kind of strap has appeared on an SKX sport-style model, and it features a perfectly practical, but slightly cheap-looking brown color.
motion
These three 5KX GMTs are powered by Seiko’s in-house caliber 4R34. The 4R series movements are essentially Seiko-branded versions of the SII NH series movements that are so prevalent in the microbrand space. The main difference is that the 4R movements are always made in Japan, while the NH movements are made in a variety of countries, including Malaysia and Hong Kong. Either way, the 4R34 is a very robust, if somewhat unimpressive, “Kohler” GMT movement that vibrates at 3Hz and has a power reserve of 41 hours. While I wouldn’t claim it’s one of the most beautiful movements in the world, these 5KX GMTs do showcase their movement through an exhibition caseback, which is a novelty at this price point.
Verdict
Look, there’s no need to dwell on these three Seikos. After all, these are just new colorways on existing watches. But these are really great colorways for really great watches. If someone asked me for a recommendation for an inexpensive mechanical watch, I’d tell them to buy the 5KX GMT. That’s it. Having a fan-favorite colorway in the lineup makes it easier to make that recommendation.
Pricing and Availability for the Seiko 5 SKX Sport Style GMT Collection
The three new additions to the Seiko 5 SKX Sport Style GMT collection are available now at Seiko retailers. Price: AU$875 (SSK033K and SSK035K), AU$850 (SSK036K)
Brand: Seiko Model: 5 SKX Sports Style GMT Reference: SSK033K (Silver dial, black/blue bezel)
SSK035K (green dial, black/green bezel)
SSK036K (Black Dial, Black Bezel, Two Tone) Case Size 42.5mm (D) x 13.6mm (T) x 46mm (L2L) Case Material Stainless Steel (SSK033K & SSK035K)
Two-tone stainless steel and PVD gold (SSK036K) Water resistance 100 meters Crystal Hardlex front and back, Hardlex bezel insert Dial Matte silver, green, black, GMT chapter ring, Lumibrite indexes and hands Lug width 22mm Strap Steel Jubilee style bracelet, folding clasp (SSK033K and SSK035K)
Brown Leather Strap (SSK036K)MovementCaliber 4R34, In-house, AutomaticPower Reserve 41 HoursFunctions Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, GMTAvailabilityCurrent PriceA$875 (SSK033K & SSK035K)
850 Australian dollars (SSK036K)
