Buffy Acacia
All watch owners have their own opinions on wear and tears. For some, wounds and patina are sacred to tell the story of the life of the watch. For others, maintaining the watch in its untouched state is the ultimate sign of respect for its service over the years. But no matter how much attention you pay, the existing one will change the clock. It is not a philosophical view of entropy or anything like that. Responsiveness has been a hot topic recently, especially with regard to the growing popularity of titanium as a material for watch cases. Yes, it may be very biocompatible and is used regularly in surgical implants, but why is it related to how it is viewing?
When we wear watches, we tend to think of this case as rather inert. If it looks like metal, feels like metal and doesn’t explode into a cesium-like flame anytime soon, then it’s non-reactive, right? Well, the reactivity isn’t always obvious. In fact, the majority of metals react quickly and chemically with oxygen in the air, but the oxide layer is very thin and invisible. In reality, it is the oxide layer that acts as a protective coating, which prevents the metal from reacting further. In stainless steel, it is the chromium additive that helps protect most of the steel from rust, as you would normally expect iron-based alloys. Even so, oxides can be removed by the acidity of sweat, harsh chemicals in cleaning products, seawater, and more. So, what does that mean for the longevity of a watch?
Stainless steel and titanium
There are some things we definitely know and others we still want to find. Titanium is currently featured in almost every watch catalogue in the world, so let’s start there. Titanium is actually a highly reactive metal, but its oxide layer provides resistance to acidic corrosion. That’s why it’s considered biocompatible, and of course it doesn’t contain nickel like stainless steel, which some people can allergic to. However, titanium watches are not available anywhere, only steel watches.
The first titanium wristwatch was the Citizen X-8 chronometer, released in 1970. However, titanium oxide is acid resistant, but continues to oxidize throughout its lifetime. The initial oxide thickness is about 1-2 nanometers and grows to about 25 nm after 4 years. Looking at vintage titanium watches from the 70s and 80s, you can see slight ambiguity and matte effect on cases that may have been bright and shiny in the original. A simple polish will quickly restore it, but the polishing of the case is frowned deeply by most enthusiasts and collectors. It is difficult to know for sure what a titanium case will look like in 100 years.
Conversely, stainless steel has been used as a material for common watch cases since the 1910s, when nickel or chrome-plated brass was still phased out. Chromium oxide is shiny throughout life, and stainless steel watches from the 20s and 30s still look great as they prevent the formation of orange or black corrosion. However, as the oxide area wears and re-forms over time, stainless steel can gradually eat. That’s how you end up in the pit, and it appears that a small dimples appear throughout the case. It cannot be easily polished like scratches on the surface or oxidation of titanium, but it definitely makes it look antique. Special alloys such as 904L stainless steel (known by Rolex) are highly corrosion resistant and do not pit as much as the standard 316L recipe.
Gold and Silver
While valuable metals are more valuable than other metals, this is due to several factors. In ancient times, it was easy to melt and form into coins and jewelry, rare enough to control value without being able to find it. Most importantly, it did not rust or corrode like iron or copper. Gold is a classic example, the second reactive metal we know, and has been the backbone of the world economy for thousands of years. Even when alloyed with better reactive elements to give better strength and higher hardness, it most often looks perfect throughout its entire existence (except for scratches, of course).
Silver has been a staple food in the wristwatch era recently, but it has been a staple food in the recent wristwatch era. It is a common misconception that silver discolors in the air over time, as it is actually very stable in the air. It is a sulfur compound, which even gives dark, black oxidation, but it also creates a protective coating. (Again, there is a difference between oxidation and corrosion.) Frequent wear of silver actually prevents discoloration as friction acts as a subtle polish. It may not be worth as much as gold, but there are still some material values and historical romances that make it compelling.
bronze
Of course, if you’re talking about reactive case metals in watchmaking, you have to talk about bronze. However, unlike the other metals discussed here, the “point” of monitoring from bronze is precisely because it is so responsive. Bronze reacts with pH levels of oxygen, skin or salt water and quickly discolors and produces a thick layer of copper oxide. But it is precisely this reactivity that we admire in bronze. This development of patina is influenced by countless different factors, including the environment, wrist shape, and usage, so the patina on each bronze watch is unique to the wearer. This article will provide in-depth information on how to take care of bronze oxidation and bronze watches (or accelerate patina). So please read for a more detailed explanation.
Development in the watch field in recent years has mainly been the creation of bronze alloys designed to resist abuse, the “bronze gold” of the Swatch Group, which has been used by Branpine and Omega. Specifically, bronze gold is an alloy of bronze concentrated with 37.5% gold, a private amount of palladium and silver (but most are valuable), and is actually characterized as 9K gold. As a result, the bronze and gold hybrid has a soft pink tint, but is also very stable and corrosion resistant.
Platinum and Tantalum
When talking about watches with people who are not in the hobby of watches, the common question I get is why watchmakers make watches from white gold or platinum when they look like stainless steel. Platinum is particularly attractive, and although it is less valuable per gram than pure gold, it often leads price premiums in jewelry and watchmaking. Platinum is the least reactive metal of all of them, forming a slim layer of platinum dioxide that protects against everything except high temperatures and aggressive acids. Despite it being a relatively soft metal, platinum scratch has a “healing” effect that makes it more difficult to see than other materials. Like many Cartier models, many platinum watches from the 1920s appear to have been manufactured a week ago.
Tantalum is not technically considered a precious metal, but is generally treated like a watchmaking process. It is hardly reactive at temperatures below 150°C, but its greatest quality is Vickers’ hardness of 860-1,200. It even comes with chemically hardened stainless steel and ceramics there, providing excellent scratch resistance. It also looks fantastic due to its dark blue hue. This is quite unique in watchmaking. The main reason for the high price tag is how difficult it is to manufacture, but it appears that some microbrands like Zeros have started to try it regularly (if limited).
Nonmetal reactivity
Ignoring all the other materials made these days, such as plastic, carbon fiber, ceramic, sapphire, and more, will be a big surveillance. Their reactivity is neither as simple nor predictable as metals or alloys, except for ceramics and sapphires. The biggest factor when considering wear in non-metallic cases is actually the effects of UV light and sunlight. Exposure to harsh UV rays can cause color fading in most materials, but modern ceramics and sapphires claim to have many color stability.
When it comes to plastic cases, UV not only causes color fading, but also makes the case brittle and more prone to cracking. It may be obvious to say that plastic watches are not built to last, but it is worth keeping in mind given the number of luxury brands that have used recycled plastic in an environmentally friendly movement. The carbon fiber itself is completely impermeable to UV, but is mixed with the resin in the manufacturing process. Resin is also a type of plastic that can turn yellow or brittle after excessive exposure to UV rays. So while many carbon fiber composites use additives or other protective coatings to counter the effects of UV, this may not apply to all watch manufacturers.
Close thoughts
Visiting a watch store with cash that burns holes in your pockets may not be thinking decades ahead. Considering whether you are considering the resale value of a watch or it could become a family heirloom, its material properties can have a major impact on decision-making. I always believe that stainless steel is a modern miracle. Because something very cheap can look incredible for a long time, but you can’t compete with something like platinum. Nothing lasts forever, but understanding reactivity and corrosion resistance will help you know exactly how your watch ages with you.
