It’s been a while since I bought a new watch. In other words, it is not a used or vintage item. Just last weekend, I bought another vintage Constellation at a local auction to satisfy my hunger. One of the reasons I don’t buy new watches these days is because the prices of certain watches have skyrocketed, and second-hand or vintage items often cost more. Of course, those who are primarily interested in vintage already know that. So, as some of my Fratello colleagues have already done, here are some of the used and vintage items on my watch list.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
my watch list
Admittedly, a few recent releases are on my watchlist, including the white-dial Speedmaster Moonwatch and the two-tone GMT-Master II 126713GRNR. But my list of used and vintage watches is even longer, and every time I find one, it feels like I’m buying a new limited edition. I have to be fast because if someone is fast, these watches can disappear quickly. You could call it FOMO for used watches. Several times I’ve seen the clock disappear from my Chrono24 notepad because I hesitated for too long.
My watch list is long and focuses more on precious metals and dressy styles than steel sports watches. This is very different from 10-15 years ago when I was more interested in sporty watches. Well, without further ado, I would like to share some of my watchlist.
Image: Delray Watch Supply
RJ Watchlist: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 101.021
One of my favorites is the Lange 1, preferably one of the early models in yellow gold. That’s why we chose 101.021, which debuted in 1994. In 2015, it changed “dramatically” with a thinner bezel and a new movement. Of course, to someone not deeply interested in Lange, these seemed like small updates. Previously, I would have chosen a pink or white gold version, but I changed direction and went with yellow gold.
Image: Delray Watch Supply
Although the Lange 1 was only introduced in 1994, I consider it a classic, and it achieved that status relatively quickly. This is a beautiful dress watch from one of the great watchmakers of our time. A. Lange & Söhne is a brand that I always look forward to going to the Watches and Wonders show in Geneva. Most watches these days have out-of-this-world complications, but nothing beats the classic Lange 1. The hand-wound movement (L90.1) is beautifully finished. It has a hand-carved balance cock and the famous three-quarter plate, typical of Glashütte movements. The off-centered dial, displaying the hours and minutes, a big date and a small seconds between 4 and 5 o’clock, is a truly distinctive Lange look.
The retail price of the Lange 1 has soared to over 45,000 euros for the gold version, but you can still find beautiful used models. 101.021 costs approximately 25,000 euros with box and documents. The one pictured above is currently available here.
A complete Lange 1 movement and case service (including sapphire crystal replacement) costs 1,900 euros. It’s good to keep this in mind when buying (or negotiating) a used Lange 1 watch. If your watch is provided as refurbished but there is no documentation to prove it, consider it to be unrefurbished.
Breguet Classic 5157
Fratello “regulars” know this has been on my watch list for a long time. I was about to pull the trigger on the Classic 5157BA when the Tradition 7027BA came along and I had to get my hands on it. “BA” in the Breguet catalog stands for yellow gold. Unfortunately, there is not a single yellow gold watch in the current Breguet collection. I hope that changes soon.
Breguet sent me a rose gold version a few years ago and that watch was a lot of fun to wear. Despite the long lugs, which are 38mm in diameter and only 5.5mm thick, they fit me perfectly. Inside the case is the Caliber 502.3, which is only 2.45 mm thick, has a decentralized rotor and a 45-hour power reserve. This is the perfect dress watch for me, displaying just the hours and minutes.
Currently, the new 5157 in rose gold retails for €24,100. However, if you buy a complete set of a yellow gold Breguet 5157 used, it will cost around 11,000 euros. The complete service price for an automatic watch without complications at Breguet was 990 euros in 2023. If you wish your watch to be polished during the service, there will be an additional charge of 360 euros (also 2023 prices).
Image: Watchive 1956
Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph Ref. 8134901
Last year, I purchased a bicolor Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph (often incorrectly referred to as a 1911) with a Zenith El Primero movement. It’s a great watch, but I have to admit I rarely wear it. But my watchmaker showed me a gold Ebel Sport Classic chronograph with a wave bracelet. Frankly, this looks great. It’s definitely something I’d like to wear more often. In addition to being much more expensive than the all-steel or two-tone versions, they are also much harder to find. There isn’t much supply on the used market. The price at launch is approximately 12,000 euros. A gold Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph with a leather strap is relatively easy to find in good condition for around 4,500 to 6,000 euros.
Image: Watchive 1956
The Ebels of today are very different from the Ebels of the 1980s and 1990s, and I’m not sure how the brand handles the maintenance of these watches. The official website run by the US-based Movado Group only mentions maintenance for Ebel’s Caliber 137, but the El Primero-based movement is Caliber 134. The maintenance of vintage Ebel watches is covered separately, so watches with the caliber 134 would probably fall into that category. . Repairing an Ebel with the more modern caliber 137 costs 790 euros, so we can assume that repairs to the caliber 134 will be more expensive. The good thing is that there are many independent watchmakers who can repair Zenith movements (myself included). The gold Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph shown above is currently available for sale here.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
Omega Constellation Grand Luxe
Omega Constellation is family to me. It all started in 1966 when my 84-year-old great-grandfather (!) bought it because he needed a watch. He passed away in 1976, and the watch passed into the hands of my grandfather, who had owned the Constellation since 1969. My dad received it sometime in the 1980s and has cherished it ever since.
Image: Amsterdam Watch Company
I have 12 Constellation watches in my collection, including the first one from 1952, made in stainless steel and powered by Caliber 352 RG. However, I would love to own Omega’s flagship model from the 1950s, the Constellation Grand Luxe. There are several models with different case styles, including the famous models with hooded lugs (Refs. 14355 and 14365). The distinguishing features of the Grand Luxe version are the solid gold dial and bracelet. These watches are equipped with the bumper automatic caliber 354 and later movements with regular rotors, the 552 and 561 (calendar). The Grand Luxe watches were originally housed in a silver box, but later a crocodile leather Omega box was used. Prices vary depending on condition, presence of box and documents, etc.
According to Omega’s customer service page, the service price is 750 euros.
Grand Seiko 5722-9990
One of the pieces that has been on my watch list the longest is this 1960s Grand Seiko Ref. 5722-9990. I first laid eyes on this watch during a trip to Grand Seiko I organized for some of my readers in 2017. It was a great experience and similar to the media trip that Grand Seiko organizes every year (which I attended in 2015). One of the participants was wearing this 5722-9990 from 1966. I was and still am very impressed with its design and style.
This watch is relatively easy to find on the vintage market, but the main concern is its condition. If I were to purchase one, I would like to choose one that is in good condition and not too polished. A Grand Seiko medallion on the caseback is often a clear sign of an over-polished model. Also, the dial doesn’t have to be perfect, but the printing should be clear. Inside is a Grand Seiko Chronometer 5722(A) movement (this is the reference number). This is a great piece of engineering, but no official Swiss chronometer testing agency has certified it. Switzerland was so protective of this certification that the Japanese manufacturer decided to remove the word “Chronometer” from the dial in the late 1960s.
Maintenance of this watch is fine, but a trip to Japan may be required to get it properly repaired. At this point, we don’t have any idea of the official price, but I’ve seen repair prices for vintage Grand Seikos reported on forums between 600 and 800 euros. If anyone has a more accurate quote, I’d be happy to hear it. Of course, the prices of these watches vary greatly depending on their condition. Prices start at less than 1,000 euros, but quickly rise to around 1,500 euros in good condition.
Image: Keystone
Now, start whittling down your watchlist little by little!
My watch list is constantly changing, but the five models described here are the ones I’m actively monitoring. Let’s see which comes first…or if the new release will convince you to buy it before any of the above.
