Did you know that unnatural mechanical watches are an important part of EOD (explosive weapon disposal) diver’s equipment? Certainly, I didn’t. But in the end, slight magnetic disturbances can cause explosives, allowing you to render a battery-powered watch that is dangerous for EOD divers. For this reason, the French Navy turned to Celica in search of an immagnetic mechanical alternative. I got the opportunity to practice the new Serica 5303 PLD.
Serica 5303 PLDs can be ordered from May 20, 2025. This new version of Serica diver is 1,690 euros and comes with a familiar mesh bracelet and secondary elastic Celica PLD strap. Let’s take a closer look!
The Serica 5303 PLD shares most of its specifications with the regular 5303
If you’re familiar with Serica’s 5303 divers, the PLD package also looks great. After all, it is a relatively modest adaptation of the French brand’s core dive model. It has a 39mm stainless diver with a 12.2mm thickness and a 46.5mm lagtoo lug. Celica rated water resistance at 300 meters thanks to its thick sapphire crystal up top and all-steel caseback.
Original 5303
Inside, check the Soprod Caliber M100. This is a drop-in alternative to the ETA 2892-A2, but it is not an exact clone. This move from the Festina group has a 42-hour power reserve and dust mites at a 4Hz (28,800VPH) frequency. Serica offers regulations within COSC standards and watches are certified accordingly.
The Serica 5303 PLD comes with a secondary wrist wrap, but the mesh bracelet is probably your first choice. Frankly, I think this is the weakest link in the package. The mesh with fitted end links certainly looks suave, but it’s not the biggest in terms of ease of use. It feels a little more inconvenient, especially for military-themed watches.
Serica 5303 PLD Treatment
So, what’s newer in the PLD version of the French Navy Diver 5303? The most obvious thing that pops out is the new bezel colour. Celica’s teams tend to nail the use of colours, and this is no exception. You get a dark, slightly greyish blue, giving it a very classy and versatile look. Speaking of bezels, the usual 5303 minute and time scale gives way to the “Maximum Diving Time” scale. The bezel displays the maximum allowed operating time in the depth range.
The other differences are even more subtle. For example, the second hand received a bit of steroid treatment. The resulting fat lollipops aid in readability with their thick room plot. Keen Observers may also be wary of the 6 o’clock “Amagnétique” signature. As mentioned in the opening paragraph, this is important information about the target audience of the Serica 5303 PLD.
Finally, the additional elastic straps represent Celica’s take on the French Navy classics. The fabric loop is closed with custom brushed Celica hardware to complete the attractive packaging.
Wearing a Celica 5303 PLD
It’s no secret that I’m a fan of Celica’s aesthetics. I understand why it splits, but I like the mid-century vibe with modern design quirks. When I first unpacked my new Serica 5303 PLD, I immediately hooked it up to my watch. I feel it’s special and I find it very appealing. The strange color combination of blue bezels and khaki green and yellow straps makes it look like you’ve placed it on a random strap from your collection. Interestingly, this one feels quickly equipped and familiar. The comfort provided by this kind of elastic strap is only useful for that experience.
I’ve always been a fan of 5303 and that percentage. It feels very slightly tabby in a likable and sympathetic way, especially with an added layer of fabric underneath. It also shows that it is quite small and worn at a diameter of 39mm.
The PLD certainly gives off the vibe of a tool watch, but that’s still a huge amount of Celica. That means spitting out Parisian talent and style. I think tiny details like split bezels and nicely curved lugs offer a bit of je ne sais quoi. Or maybe I’m just projecting. In any case, tool watches from Celica don’t feel clinically like Sin, for example.
This also means I struggle a bit with military subjects. I’m not sure if that’s what I want from Celica or if it’s better to leave it to other brands. Still, I fully understand that young brands will jump at the opportunity to work with military forces, even if only for the credibility it offers.
Close thoughts
I highly admire Celica’s strength in conveying a particular image through a watch. The aesthetics are so specific that you recognize Celica from across the room. It’s not a feat, especially when you lean against vintage design languages at the same time. Celica finds unique signatures and creates ones that stand alone. This design language is the fact that not everyone speaks just for the brand. It’s better to be better than some people than to become mediocre for everyone.
Drive an old Citroen DS to a lovely French Harbortown, board a small boat and pop out in a sea of turquoise before lunch while wearing a Celica 5303 PLD. That’s exactly the kind of spell this clock puts on me. It is also quite far from the Navy’s EOD operation. 5303 Is PLD too elegant for its intended purpose? Or is Celica too modest to be considered simply a military supplier? Or is it all in my mind, and should we simply embrace stylish military watches from the Paris brand?
Honestly, I don’t know. But I really love watches!
What do you think about the new Serica 5303 PLD? Let us know in the comments section below!
