Perhaps one of the most unexpected novelties released between this year’s watch and wonder was a double retro grade calendar watch with a 40mm pink gold case. Now, watches of that size, with their material and intricacy – I will not underestimate the signs of double retrograd – it is not so surprising given that traditional Haute Holloggery players present their novelties at salons. However, in this case, modest sized Point-Neugenève certified date/date watches were generally created by brands that make watches more sensual, enthusiastic and luxurious. This relatively introverted watch celebrated the brand’s 30th anniversary and decisively escaped many people, including myself. Now it’s time to put it into practice with the incredible Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biletgrad Calendar.
Roger Dubuis is one of the brands that has continued since its inception. Founded in 1995, the first watch was introduced a year later. This all happened when I was formed, as a watch lover, so to speak. A band that listens between teens is always a part of your life, and listening to them on the radio while driving will immediately sing in a word with a big smile on your face. That’s what happened when I first came across Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar.
We practice the amazing Roger Dubuis Excalibur Billetgrad calendar
Anyone with knowledge of the Geneva brand will soon recognize where Roger Dubuy’s Excalibur’s Billetgrad calendar (ref.dbex1179) got its appearance. The new creation is clearly a combination of the aesthetics used in the very early days of the brand and the current design language. The result is an interesting amalgam that works fantastically well. Modern elements such as triple lugs and notched bezels are presented in watches, which are measured 40mm in diameter. This is the size of Roger Dubiis’s XXL Hyperhorology world.
The essentially designed retrograde hand on the left – something made of large, edgy, openwork and made to save weight – the one on the right shows the date of a crescent scale back to zero at the end of each cycle. Watchmaker Roger Dubiis co-patiently used the retrograde mechanism in 1989. This became the basis for the brand’s debut watch seven years later. The Biretrograd Persistent Calendar in the Hommage Collection displayed dates and dates in the so-called “Ecliptic counters” as well. In addition, the clock also showed months and jump year on 12 sub-dials, as well as a 6 o’clock moon phase indicator.
Roger Dubuis bi-retrograde Perpetual Calender from Hommage Collection
The new Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar holds back these additional features, but captures the spirit of RD’s debut watch. For example, by celebrating the symmetry of the original model, with a coat of Geneva’s arms surrounded by the clock names in 12 historic fonts and a round badge showing a small second at 6 o’clock.
Slimy 7-layer dial
I’m looking at the dial so I can continue here too. It is a dial made up of more than seven layers and contains a silver-plated double surface flange, under which two retrograde pivot points are hidden, making movement and appearance more interesting. The silver plated and satin blue dial features a gold plated time marker with a white Super Luminova in the center. It also displays pink gold outline and text. Additionally, there is a calendar display with pink satin brushes with black transferred text and dots. However, the highlights are the mother-of-pearl inserts at 12am and 6am. Not only does they appear to connect the zodiac counter, which is wide on the outside and narrow towards the center, but they also pay tribute to Roger Debuis. He was the first watchmaker to use 18k pink gold and my mother’s mother together.
Roger Dubiis, a multifaceted watchmaker
Certainly, Roger Duvia was not a conservative watchmaker. After graduating, he worked for the Longins for nine years, restoring various historic chronographs. He then moved to Patek Philippe in Geneva. He joined Grand Completions Workshop and created traditional autohorology moves for the next 15 years. However, his artistic views on watches have always been unconventional, avant-garde and bold.
Roger Dubiis, a watch maker at work
Before establishing his brand, Monsieur Dubuis and fellow watchmaker Sven Andersen started Genevois des Cabinotiers in 1977. The idea behind it was to save traditional watchmaking from the dangers of quartz watches. During that period, Deviis also came up with a clock based on the paintings of his young daughter. Throughout the brand’s 30-year history, many technically and aesthetically enthusiastic pieces come to life, reflecting the founder’s watchmaking skills and taste in the design of watches.
It has the taste of Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur
“Honey, they shrunk Roger Dubuis.” That was my first thought when Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur saw the Billetrograd Calendar at a pre-watch and mysterious dinner in Geneva. But soon after, I thought proportions were spots. The pink gold case is 40mm in diameter and 11.25mm thick. Size matters here and it’s not in the way of popular proverbs. Sizing is important as it connects to the brand’s heritage and changes the overall design. As you can see, a smaller overall size of the watch has created a notched bezel that looks more delicate than ever. And the same applies to the triple lag situation – I still see it as a situation and not a very design element. The appearance of these lugs has been reduced to a level that does not dominate the overall design of the watch.
As you know, the dial is a complex craftsmanship, but it is very appealing. Mother of Pearl adds a gorgeous shimmer to a semi-open working dial, with a large hand on top of it in the current RD style. The softness, stronger shape, and peering into what drives this watch is perfectly balanced.
Read the clock
Before placing the watch on your wrist, peering into the back reveals the company’s 240-part RD840 movement. This automatic caliber features retrograde day and date displays and features the prestigious Poinson de Geneve. This certification requires manual movement decoration, hand-worked surfaces and passing several chronometer tests.
The vibration weight is a modernized version of the original 1996. And there’s more. Sometimes you should read it on the movement side of the clock. Outside the caliber is the following quote from Roger Dubuis and the brand co-founder Carlos Diaz: It reads “C’est Une Montre Actuelle, Inspirée Mais Pas Soumise AuPassé, Qui se Projette dans unfutur qui nous Appartient.” This is “This is the watch of today, and is projected into a future that belongs to us, but not limited to the past.”
I’m wearing a watch
This size watch is easy to wear. The lug is on the long side (sorry to forget to measure the length of the case, I was so fascinated by the watch spell when I tried it), but I had no issues with my 18.5cm wrist. The thin shape of the rug helped create a flowing, elegant silhouette. The case finish is the best. But that is of course what you can expect from a watch that has achieved the Geneva character.
It can be hard to believe when you say that this particular RD acts as a daily wearer. But thanks to its size and refined appearance, I think it’s true. And the watch comes in pink gold, but that’s not too flashy. In addition, the details of the MOP dial act as a attention seeker for the wearer, not the public. The sparkling mop makes you want to look at the watch over and over again.
Pricing and availability
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is an unlimited watch from the brand’s regular collection, and will be available immediately at the moment, at 64,000 euros/CHF 56,500 euros. In time, it will likely be combined with other pieces with more moderately sized cases and history-inspired designs. Looking through the brand’s back catalogue, there are many treasures waiting to be rediscovered and reinterpreted, pleading for it to serve as inspiration in a way that fits the brand’s present and future. Roger Dubeis has created a watch that appeals to more watch enthusiasts than in the recent past. It also laid the solid foundation for future watches with watches that relive the past, while not falling into the retro trap of reissuing anything.
I know that pricing is on a level that doesn’t suit everyone, but it offers more watch fans the opportunity to enter the world of Roger Dubia. The Excalibur Biretrograde calendar may prove to be the starting point for an important next chapter in Roger Deubus’ life.
