The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196p was a surprise at Watches and Wonders 2025. It’s been a long time since the brand introduced clean and simple watches at such a big annual show. Today we’ll take a closer look at this gem.
For Patek Philippe, 2024 was Double Denim’s year. I’ve come to love this brand from a vintage perspective, but I know it can produce incredible watches. Still, the last decade was full of overdone work, gem monsters, or (lately) square stupidity. Finally, Patek brings beautiful things in a way that only respected watchmakers can manage. The Calatrava 6196p is a return to the watch that you are considering purchasing. Finally…
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196p
In the face of that, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is the best dress watch of all time. It’s the norm and we can fight about it, but you’ll lose. References like the 96 and 570 are still so good that other brands continue to try and reinvent the wheel rather than shamelessly copy them. But, strangely enough, Patek has decided to abandon the baby in the bath since the end of 5196. This year it created something timeless and wonderful, as if an imaginary tackhammer stumbled and rocked the company’s heads. Calatrava 6196p is the result of this awakening and the dammit is good.
The 38mm diameter Platinum Calatrava 6196p is not as small as I would like, but it’s getting there. By comparison, it is 1mm larger than the 5196 that was discontinued, but 1mm smaller than the 6119. Therefore, it is clear that Patek is not ready to be as small as Lange in the glorious 1815. However, they survive. When it comes to depth ratings, this is definitely a land-compatible dress watch with a 30m specification.
A wonderful profile
The Calatrava 6196p is 9.33mm thick, including sapphire crystal. It cuts out its slim figure and boasts a lovely case finish, including horizontal brushing on the sides. The familiar signed crown sits faithfully at 3 o’clock. Certainly, for a manual-winding watch, it is small. From the side, the rug profile is not much committed to the lovely round shape of the 570, but it’s still beautiful. The downward curve is noticeable and elegant.
On the other hand, the polished bezel is a compromise. See the “Coin Edge” bezel above the 570. I think Patek has missed the fact that instead of a right angle design from past generations, it went with a downward bezel to 6196p. Still, the 6196p is a beautiful watch.
Classic dial with a modern twist
Patek chose the classic style of applied time marker for the Calatrava 6196p. This style of index and round diamond drilling micromarkers have been in use for almost 100 years. Dauphin’s hands are also classic. If everything sounds traditional, the curveball comes with anthracite-colored hardware. I don’t know yet whether this is better than a refined index, but I think it brings a traditional face to a very traditional face. However, when combined with the rose oparin dial, it gives a beautiful photo.
Internal 30-255 PS
Thankfully, the Calatrava 6196p has a hand-winding movement. The 30-255 PS is a modern gem with a frequency of 28,800Vph and a 65-hour power reserve. This movement is displayed via a sapphire display back and boasts geneve finishes and rich angles. Does the movement have a bridge as beautiful as the old Patek Calibur? No, but as far as modern calibers go, that’s great. It also fits at least the case when compared to the older 5196.
The straps and buckles are a nice touch
Some blame the lack of a foldable folding buckle, but we are delighted that Patek is stuck with a Calatrava 6196p platinum pin buckle and brown alligator strap. With a simple dress watch, there’s no need to acid filter things under metal loads.
Since 1999, following the Platinum Patek reference tradition, the brand decided to add a small diamond to the midcase. It is located between the rugs at 6 o’clock. Is this what I pay as an option? That’s not the case at all. I wonder how much has it been added to the price?
Sexy on the wrist
It’s difficult to make a classy dress watch. There are plenty of watches in decent dresses, but rarely anything truly amazing. Calatrava 6196p is still a big touch in my book, but it’s a serious look. The dial has enough detail to fill the property, and the case sits nicely on the wrist. I also feel that the color of the dial is on the target. Furthermore, this watch is easy to play in a formal environment, but also looks great against denim. It’s the winner.
Final Thoughts on Calatrava 6196p
If it sounds like I was having a hard time with the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196p, that’s because I want the brand to make watches in glorious, beautiful and simple dresses again. This watch is very close and is probably perfect for people with large wrists. But for me, I would like to see it in a smaller, larger crown, either millimeters or two. Again, I’ll be happy to wear one of these without regrets. However, for 46,800 euros, this watch is a very expensive job. Again, it’s Patek Philippe, and perhaps a future classic.
