HTD is one of the watch companies and is sometimes displayed on people’s radar. Italian brands have been looking at designs for five years. However, in two new HeSagraph 2025 models, the HTD shows how far the watch has come. These two variations of the brand’s popular chronograph have been redesigned to celebrate the brand’s fifth anniversary. It’s time to look into the details of the HTD HESAGRAPH Cannoli and the Hesagraph Variante B and discover what they are very good. I can reveal that I have already fallen in love with one of them.
My first experience with HTD was when I put the brand Safarigraph in the office for a review four years ago. The watch quickly stood out thanks to the incredible charm of the dial. Rex explained that the Safarigraph dial uses brown and beige shades, and uses hints of bright light orange. As he said, “Swinging a brown caliber watch on your wrist perfectly fits that concept, especially since it looks vintage. This watch had the charm and glitches that Rex and I adore, and that’s why it came up in conversation from time to time.
Story of the new HTD HESAGRAPH model
It has guided me ever since that time to follow the brand’s progress. Honestly, it would be an exaggeration to say that Safarigraph was impressively well made. The retro appeal of the watch was not limited to its appearance. There was also a vintage-like build that you wouldn’t expect from a modern watch.
Let’s say you have to appreciate the build quality of a vintage Rolex watch to enjoy the charm of Safarigraph. I love it, but I mainly see it as a vintage feature rather than a modern watch. So you will understand that you’re eager to learn more about the new HTD HESAGRAPH model, which celebrates the five years of the brand’s existence.
The first model is the redesigned HESAGRAPH CANNOLI. The original version of this model was part of the brand’s first drop in 2020. The second model is the HESAGRAPH VARIANTE B, designed from the ground up. It makes for an interesting duo of slightly different HTD chronographs.
The Cannoli is a two-registered chronograph with an off-white dial, a black counter and red details. The Variante B has a dark brown dial with three white subdials and small red details. Both have a clear retro appeal that visually links to the great Rolex chronographs of the 1960s. Due to the dial configuration, Hesiggraf Cannoli reminds me of Paul Newman Daytona. hesagraph variante b reminds me more of a ref. 6238, one of my favourite Rolex watches.
Details of the HTD HESAGRAPH model
Despite the retro-inspired dial, the redesigned case has a modern feel, ensuring that the watch doesn’t feel like a retro reissue. Most of it is due to the flat bezel, providing a more modern relevance.
First let’s take a look at some basic specifications. Both watches feature the same case, 39mm in diameter, 12.4mm thick, and 48mm from lug to lug. Thankfully, I found it bent well enough to follow the 18.5cm (7.3 inches) wrist contour.
The case has a completely refined finish, so the watch pops out when the light hits correctly. To the right of the case is two pump-style pushers and a grooved crown. They are perfectly proportional to this case, making the overall composition great and almost familiar.
Both watches are placed on three rows of oyster-style bracelets with folding grip clasps and push button releases. It is also where HTD gets the first taste of the big steps it took from a quality standpoint. The fully polished bracelet feels very well made. It still has a retro appeal to some of the sounds, but overall it feels solid. When I was wearing my watch, it promised to be good.
HTD HESAGRAPH CANNOLI
Before we get into that, let’s quickly expand the differences between the two models. The first is a cannoli with an off-white dial and two black counters. The register has white numbers and markings (plus three red ones) for easier readability. The dial is decorated with application time markers that appear to be almost floating.
But that’s a bit of a visual trick. The reason is that the black outer ring holding the red micro-track has been slightly removed from the marker. However, there is a small round dot next to all the markers, ensuring a visual time reference with subdials of 3 and 9 o’clock.
The elegant hour and minute hands are filled with the room just like the applied marker, and the middle chronograph seconds hands are also run in silver. The text in the bottom half of the dial consists of three lines.
The first line mentions the black model name. Next, the second line is written as the “Calica Manual,” Italian for “Manual Winding.” Finally, the third line says “antiurto” in black. This means “anti-shock” in Italian. As mentioned before, the color combination quickly puts the watch into the realm of Paul Newman Daytona, despite the case design that doesn’t look like a Rolex Daytona at all.
HTD HESAGRAPH VARIANTE b
The second model is the HeSagraph Variante B, with a dark brown dial and a bright sunburst pattern. It is a beautiful dial, and only fully reveals the brown color with bright light. In most light conditions it plays with your perception and sometimes looks black, while other times it looks deep, dark brown. As you may know, I love this new dial variant because there is one for the brown dial. The way it plays with your eyes makes it even better.
The slightly embedded three white subdials contrast with brown and black printing. The 30-minute chronograph counter at 3am has red markers for 5, 15, and 25 minutes, fully energizing the dial. Located around the dial is a white minute track with small bright dots with larger application time markers.
I prefer variante B over cannoli for multiple reasons. First, I visually prefer the three-registered chronograph over one with two subdials. Second, the dial on Variante B appears to be more balanced as the time markers don’t appear to float. Finally, you know I’ve always loved the brown dial and have made this variant even easier to choose.
Manual Find Cellata SW510 M Chronograph Caliber
Both watches feature a Sellita SW510 m variation, but the layout is different. The manual scroll chronograph caliber operates at 28,800VPH, has 23 gems and offers a 63-hour power reserve. The HTD was selected for the Elaboré grade with movements tested in three positions and adjusted to an average accuracy of ±5 seconds per day.
The SW510 is a chronograph caliber commonly used by the microbrand and has proven reliable. I love that HTD has chosen the Elaboré grade because it offers daily accuracy. Additionally, the chronograph starts, stops and resets well-defined clicks. I’ve said this before, but if there’s no defined click on the reset button, I don’t like it. Thankfully, the caliber that powers the HTD HESAGRAPHS is extremely sturdy and sturdy.
I’m wearing a new hecigraph
This means I’m wearing a watch. These two new hecigraph models were thoroughly impressed with the wrist. I think it’s easy to fall in love with the look of a watch, but that love must be continued on the wrist once.
However, as soon as I put the Variante B on my wrist I was impressed by how solid it felt. The case sits comfortably on my 18.5cm wrist and, as mentioned before, bends nicely around it. The 48mm lug-to-lug may not necessarily fit a small wrist, but most people at Fratero Office loved the dimensions of the new case.
In that solid feeling, you quickly know that HTD has improved the quality of your watches over the last five years. You can also feel it with a bracelet and clasp. It’s not the best affordable Oyster style bracelet, but the honor goes to Christopher Ward’s Badder Bracelet, which I feel is solid and well made. What made me smile was that it was still a bit rattling as evidence that the bracelet hasn’t lost its vintage appeal. But honestly, these bracelets are better than many similar bracelets used by small brands these days.
Final Thoughts on the Two New HTD HESAGRAPH Models
As you know, I was impressed with these redesigned HTD HESAGRAPH models. They are perfect evidence of the big steps HTD has taken to improve the quality of the watch. In doing so, the brand not only impressed me compared to previous efforts, but also outweighs many of its competitors. I’m as far as I say it’s hard to find a better chronograph than the Hescigraph Canoli and Hescigraph variante B at a price of 1,875 euros.
The biggest competitor is the Baltic Sea scale graph (formerly known as Tricompax), Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster, and Farer’s Chrono-Sport model (such as Brillation Moritz Green). However, it can be said that the new HTD hecigraph can certainly hold itself against such a watch. The new HESAGRAPH model has this special charm and makes me a winner. Let’s call it the magic of Italian sprezzatura, Just like Rex labeled it. In particular, the Variante B on the brown dial completely swept me out of my feet with its fantastic style.
When I decided that I didn’t need any more watches to add to my collection before selling, the HTD HESAGRAPH VARIANTE B crossed my path. I was looking at it in images on the brand’s website and knew it was in danger in my alley. After all, it’s even better than I thought. My practical time accompanied by it has transformed lingering desires into a strong love for the new HTD HESAGRAPH variante B.
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