Russell Sheldrake
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Perpetual Calender slid under the watch and many of the radars of Wonders 2025. It’s a really minimal take on what an eternal calendar is, as it only provides a very basic level of information needed to be considered a true QP. Dive into this seemingly intricate and elegant watch and discover what has become one of the best hidden gems of the year.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdl3wdgyogq
Dial
We’re used to looking at perpetual calendars with three, perhaps four subdials, and even several openings. Here, Palmidiani was able to offset from the center of the dial to fit the two subdials that sat all the necessary information symmetrically with each other. With the asymmetrical design movements pioneered by German brands like Lange, here Parmigiani adds his own talent to his style.
The left subdial has two functions most used in a persistent calendar, for day and date, and for the month and jump indicator. This will clear the remaining minimalist dials as defined by the 12 applicable logos, and define various 3D elements that will help give you depth and character, such as small step-downs to the outer track where the applied time markers are placed. This dial can be placed in two familiar, dusty matte shades, but gives it a unique feel to Palmigiani, “Morning Blue” and “Golden Hour.” Soft blue is only available in platinum cases, but the champagne dial is only cased in rose gold.
case
Looking at the case construction, it brings elements of the brand’s origin to a redesign era, like the Connor bezel, while also giving it a modern and traditional feel. At 40.6mm wide and just 10.9mm thick, it is the ideal size for many people, but wearing slightly larger than these measurements gives a great presence to the wrist thanks to the slightly domed crystal and straight lug. The case lines are washed away with case bands on each side of the crown thanks to the built pusher and remain uninterrupted to modify the perpetual calendar function.
Movement
When you flip the watch over, you will find a fantastic view of the manual winding PF733 caliber. The Rose Gold Bridge is covered in Palmigiani’s distinctive Cote de Fleurier finish, and even features the brand’s founder signature between two consecutive mounted barrels. Easter eggs for those who notice.
The base of this movement is the same as what we saw on the Toric Petit Second model released last year, and the hand has a fantastic view of the insane plate thanks to the fact that there are no rotors to get in the way. Given that it’s a permanent calendar, it would be great if there was a slightly longer power reserve than the 60 hours currently available, but if it meant maintaining the ideal dimensions of this watch, that’s fine for me.
The view of movement is still relatively minimal, as they did with the dial. We’re used to seeing complicated watches, such as putting many levers, springs and gears on a full display, but Parmigiani has decided to place the finish of that movement front, center and center, while the intricate mechanic is hidden behind the solid rose gold plate.
strap
The permanent calendar of both torics is on alligator leather straps with pin buckles that match the case material. Their colors are chosen to contrast and complement the colors of the case and dial rather than mimic them. For example, the morning blue strap has a light gray that looks almost brown, while the golden hour has a very pale blue, allowing the case and dial to appear on the center stage.
verdict
With only these two variations being produced, priced at 92,000 CHF in platinum and 85,000 CHF in rose gold, it would be difficult to get a permanent calendar of Torics. There’s no doubt these are incredibly good looking watches. Because they take a minimalist approach to being a permanent calendar, reducing exactly all possible features to what the wrist needs. It’s not easy to take this kind of reductionist approach to designing watches, but Palmisiani seems to have done it perfectly.
Parmigiani fleurier Toric Permanent Calendar Availability and Price
Each Parmigiani fleurier Toric Perpetual Calendar version is limited to 50 units. Price: CHF 85,000 (rose gold), CHF 92,000 (platinum)
Brand Parmigiani fleurier Model Toric Permanent Calendar Case Dimensions 40.6mm(d) x 10.9mm
