It’s a lot of fun to write and talk about watches, but sometimes it can be a hassle. Today’s article exemplifies the types of “work” I enjoy. As you know, Parmigiani is one of my favourite brands and is reportedly. I’ve always been to cover new releases. Today we are covering watches and slates of the full release of the brand from Wonders 2025, so we are taking a few more steps than that.
In the second half of 2023, I had the opportunity to attend the Palmigiani Fleurier event shortly after moving to London. I’ve seen and read brand watches, but I’ve never tried or seen them in my body. Obviously, that has changed, and so has my most desired list.
Why is Parmigiani so good?
With so many attractive watches on the market today, what separates Palmisini from others? For me, it comes down to a very elegant case. Next is an incredible bracelet that is thin, strong and has excellent joints. And movement? Vaucher, the company’s internal movement division, creates gorgeous calibers, from simple automatics to extremely complex perpetual calendars. But what hit me with this year’s watch and amazing show was the brand’s acquisition of new colours. This appears repeatedly when walking through the new model Rittany. Apart from one piece, all references in this article were featured in Watches and Wonders 2025. I chose to include a bonus watch. This is because it’s number one on my “most desirable” list.
l’Armorialerépétition Minute Mysteries
Parmigiani held a whirlwind “Touch and Feel” session in Geneva with almost all new works. The exception was two pieces unique. L’Armorialer’s Pétition Minute Mystérieuse debuted in two colors for a pair of lucky people. What makes these 41.6mm white gold repeaters very unique is the dial on the back of the case. The front is a hand guillotine with a pine cone motif and a translucent grandfauenamel of either desert rose or fjord blue.
The sculpture work is prominent on the sides of the case, evoking the Dorik pillar. The sliding lever on the left side of the case activates tiny repeaters. With a very detailed front cover and visible crown and lever, I thought this was a Hunter Case Watch. How wrong I was!
Surprisingly, Reverse displays time using two rose gold hands on a properly shaped “H” and “M” form. Please note that the sharp eyes are made of stones, the dial below. In this case it’s Guatemalan White Jade. The L’Armoriale Répétition Minute Mystérieuse model uses an in-house PF355, a manual winding movement with a 72-hour power reserve and 392 components. The cathedral gong includes two hammers and are tailored to deliver a permanent chime. This movement is invisible, but don’t worry as it’s very complete with Perlage, Anglage and Côtes de Jenève.
Quantieme Perpetuel in Toric
Recently I declared that a permanent calendar would hit me as one of the less useful complications. Parmigiani Toric Quantieme Perpetuel throws a monkey wrench at my theory. The reason is literally simple. These lovely 40.6mm x 10.9mm x 18K rose gold or 950 platinum provide all the information that complications provide in a clean and elegant way. Two simple sub-dials and a series of centrally mounted time and fine hand sets take care of everything.
In addition to the beautiful and clean concept, Toric blends vibrant colors and precious metals with precision finishes. The Platinum model has a stunning morning blue 18k white gold dial, but the Rose Gold edition uses the same material throughout the design. Both watches had special marks on the blue variant, dropping directly gorgeously.
The display case back reveals a work of art with manual winding PF733 caliber. Made primarily of 18K gold, it features a Cote de Fleurier that finishes on the main plate. Each steel bridge has a hand angle. A 60-hour power reserve is useful, but three simple pushers on the case side make it easy to set up a simple calendar. Each reference is limited to just 50. The price is on the exotic side for 85,000 CHF for the gold model and 92,000 CHF for the Platinum Reference.
Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
Start a parade of new Tonda releases with Verzasca Green GMT Rattrapante. This 40mm x 10.7mm watch is made of stainless steel and features a raised platinum bezel. Like the Toric, the dial’s colours are spectacular, representing the first update since the original Milano Blue model that debuted in 2022. Plus, it includes the brand’s wonderfully comfortable and perfectly finished bracelet.
My colleague Thomas covered this watch between the watch and the wonder. I feel the same way about this work. He mentioned his usual preference for simple base models. I agree because complications usually add messiness and otherwise ruin a harmonious design. The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante avoids this with a very clever move. The PF051 micro rotor automatic is simple yet original. The pusher on the bottom left advances the rhodium-plated 18k hour hand into the local timezone. 18k rose gold hands remain at home time. When you go home, you can quickly press the crown’s gold monopusher and bring the locals back to the house. Do you swim while traveling? This tonda has a useful depth rating of 60 meters. For the CHF 28,700, this hits me as the most attractive luxury GMT on the market.
Tonda PF Chronograph No Date 40mm
Until now, modern Palmigiani chronographs have exceeded 40mm. The new Tonda PF Chronograph no date 40mm changes this with smaller cases and removal of date functions. To purists, this already sounds like a successful recipe. Thankfully, the good news continues with the thickness of the case, just 12.72mm, and another nice dial color, mineral blue. The stainless steel chronograph features platinum bezel, hand guilloche dials and 18K rhodium-plated dial hardware. This model comes with a bracelet equipped with a hidden folding clasp.
You can process a new 40mm chronograph and make sure it fits beautifully. This movement is the highest step within a competitive set. It uses the brand’s COSC certified PF070 integrated automatic with a 65-hour power reserve. There is a 30 minute sub-dial, running seconds and a 12 hour counter. However, my favorite details are the high beat frequency of 36,000 VPH. To justify the watch’s CHF 31,500 price tag, Parmigiani designed the watch with a depth rating of 100 meters.
Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-cermet
Parmigiani takes a different approach with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-cermet model. Instead of steel and precious metals, these new pieces are made entirely of ultra-cellmet, a mixture of ceramic and metals. Yes, this includes the case, bezel, pusher, crown and buckle. Aerospace materials have characteristics from various components, such as the hardness of ceramics and the lightness of metals. Additionally, the dark-looking surface appears in the form of a polished brush.
Two 42.5mm x 13.3 models, Rondon Gray and Milano Blue, were released on watches, which was incredibly exciting. After all, Parmigiani has largely avoided creating more sporty pieces. Still, attention to detail was apparent during our session. These pieces are made for an active lifestyle, so the black coated 18K hands and indexes contain bright materials. Each dial has a fine grain vertical dye finish. These watches were a little too big for my wrist, but I hope the brand continues to develop Ultra-cermet and become available in additional models.
Like the 40mm chronograph, the PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Sermet References uses the High Beat PF070 automatic. The 22K gold rotor adds a classy contrast and is displayed via a sapphire display case. Again, the watch has a water resistance of 100 meters and is equipped with a suitable durability rubber strap and an ultra-cellmet pin buckle. Prices for each color are CHF 39,900.
Tonda PF Skeleton
Judging by the chatter in the busy press conference room, GMT Rattrapante and Tonda PF Skeleton were the most praised. Parmigiani created this reference using a variety of colors and case materials. The latest limited edition of 50 pieces is housed in a 40mm x 8.5mm stainless steel case with a platinum bezel. Slate green is used on openwork dials and for major moving components.
The brand tried to improve readability by using raised rhodium-plated 18K gold index and skeletonized hands. There are also many openwork bridges finished in satin, with hand angled finishes, and finishes with many hand angled. With a 22k white gold rotor, the in-house PF777 auto is beaten at a frequency of 28,800VPH. With specifications that include a 60-hour power reserve and a 100-meter depth rating, this example of autohorology can act as a daily watch. At CHF 65,000 it’s not a typical sight, but it’s a lovely thing.
Tonda PF 36mm Automatic Stone Blue
The final Parmigiani on all the watches and the recap of mysterious novelties was not really a new release. The Tonda PF 36mm Automatic Stone Blue was released a month before the event. But it was the first time most of us saw it live. I had a desire after a 36mm Tonda PF from late 2023, but fell head overhead for the new Stone Blue dial. The colour is amazing!
Everything you’d expect from Palmigiani is found on this stainless steel watch, including a hand guilloche dial, a platinum bezel, and rhodium-plated 18K hand and index. Don’t forget the best bracelets in the luxury watch market that wrap beautifully around your wrists. It looks magical when combined with a 8.6 mm thick Tonda PF case. It feels like a watch that would simply never leave your arm.
The PF770 automatic movement is not leaning forward either. It is adjusted in five positions, runs at 28,800VPH and has a power reserve of 60 hours. The 22K rotor, combined with the finish of the Cote de Geneve, ensures a message of attention to the finish applied to its most affordable pieces. It is also available for constant use at depth ratings of 100 meters. Yes, I own one of these at some point. You need to find CHF 21,400!
Best release set in Geneva?
Watches and Wonders 2025 was significantly better than 2024. There were significant releases from many companies that were not just color variations. However, some brands caught (and maintained) my attention more than any other brand. Parmigiani brought many new watches to Geneva. I have a hard time listing the bad ones. Everything was beautifully finished, large in size and in attractively different colors. Parmigiani has reinvented the elegant and sporty watch category over the past five years. The brand is currently very competitive, with some of the best watches available. If you haven’t tried it recently, we highly recommend visiting an approved dealer and doing so. You will be delighted and surprised.
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